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Homebuilt tricks

5.3K views 50 replies 14 participants last post by  Dana  
#1 ·
How about everybody's handmade tricks that you did'nt have to buy.
I've seenalot of GREAT ideas on this post that I've made like st. box brace,
blazer motor,shackles , things that most anybody w/ welder/torch/saw(jeeper)
has.
How about websites? Anybody got specs with their mods?
We all have a lot of tricks we are'nt shareing , right?
Spill your guts!
It's christmas..........I'm broke and I'm bored.
Get me out in the garage & starrt building!
Thanks.

85'CJ7 258 4" runnin33's
 
#27 ·
After finding some 2inch square tubing,I made my nerb bars and my body lift. I made a roller fairing for my winch ( they $100 in stores) from drill rod and this weekend I am contruction a rear swing away tire carrier. Something I saw in a mag I would like to try is swing away front fenders for easy access to motor

brownbagg </font color=red>
 
#28 ·
/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif I've toyed with the hood-frontfenders-but-not-grille tilt nose idea. Our International 2000 series trucks all had a one-piece fiberglass nose. Boy was that nice. You could stand between the front tire and the frame and work on that big engine....and...keep it clean easy. The big problem is having enough room to tilt, a garage is not always big enough to do it./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
 
#29 ·
I considered the same thing with tilting the hood and front fenders but not the grille when I went to
a 'glass body. I even had a scheme that used a piece of angle formed to go across in front of the
cowl with hood hinges that would let the hood open normally OR tilt forward with the fenders. I
decided it would not be rigid enough and shake all over the place so I bought the AJ's one piece front
end.
 
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#30 ·
I'm considering mounting piano hinges at the rear of the front fender where it bolts to the tub. Then at the front where it mounts i'l weld bolts into the grill. With this setup the fenders will swing out and then when you close them yI'l use wing nuts on the front grill bolts to get easy access opening I don't currently have rocker guards but they will be a consideration if I hinge the fenders since they will need to be split at the seam to open the fenders. I also used the fast idle solinoid to run up the idle when cold and for the on board air. When I installed the glass tub I bought taillights for a semi trailer. 4" round and $5 each at any truck stop. They sit in the hole so they are out of harms way.
I also removed the rear seat and built a big box in the back. It houses my subwoffer and amp(front portion of box. The sterio portion is mounted VERY heavaly seperate from the reas of the box) The top of the box is cabinate gradde oak with many coats of u.v. stable varnish it looks great and locks to keep stuff safe. It also hase channals around the sides so I can mount my camping and off roading gear on top of it ant ther is big eye hooks coming throught the sides to secure it to.

Al
My web page
 
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#31 ·
I really dig that stop sign channel Hi-Lift Jack mount(which I would have heard of that a few months ago). My homespun addition is I modified the swingout tire carrier on my TJ to accept a 33" spare. It cost me about five bucks worth of bolts and washers. I took the whole old tire carrier off the tail gate. undid the silly plastic brake light(If anyone wants it I can give it to ya). I removed the 3 studs that were the old tire carrier(I just used a hammer and pounded them a LOT) I then got 3 3/4inch bolts like 3-4inches long(it was a while ago) and some washers. Put the tire carrier back on the Jeep, and added washers until the 33" tire stopped hitting the bumper.
It goes: Washers..Nut..TIRE..NUT.. I haven't figured out a way to lock the tire up, but I'm sure I can just drilled through one of the nuts and add some air craft cable, but that'll have to wait until spring.

Steve
/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gifJust Empty Every Pocket/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
 
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#32 ·
Just a few dumb ideas I may or may not have tried yet!

Hand throttle using a bicycle brake lever, didn't cost me a dime.

Rock lights. If you have some old lights kicking around, you could mount them to
the steel body mount brackets on the frame for undercarriage lighting.

Back-up light. Mounted in the centre of the spare tire, rigged to the reverse switch
on the tranny.

Search light. I really want to do this some day. Cut a hole in the cowl on the drivers
side. Insert and weld a steel cylinder. Mount a light in the cylinder that can be
remotely operated. The light would come up out of the cylinder and can move from
side to side. It would have a cap on the top so that it dissapears when not in use.
You could rig up an electric control or a manual control.

Loose shocks for max flex. Drill pin holes in the shock mount studs and secure the
shocks with cotter pins instead of the bolts.

Late CJ, Waggoneer or Ford F-series shock mounts on early CJ front shocks for
long travel shocks.

Cut holes in the tub just behind the seats to allow for long travel shock mounts in
the rear. Build steel covers to weld over them, and cut holes in the covers for
access to the top bolt. You can find plugs for the holes out of other vehicles like
Honda cars.

My plastic stopper on my throttle linkage (at the gas pedal) broke off while driving
down the highway once. I got home by using a pair of vice grips to keep the cable
from slipping through the hole in the gas pedal. Later I used a rouch
clip....er...ah.....aligator clip to do the job. The aligator clip has not failed in the two
or three years that it has been there. As an anti-theft device, the clip can be
removed in a second and put in your pocket. The cable is now loose and will not
activate the throttle when the pedal is used.

Rocker protection. 2"x3"x3/16" mild steel angle iron. Works like a charm and is
cheap. The angle iron I used measures 7/16" at the angle.

Cut the lips off the fenders for better clearance on tight trails. It also helps save the
rest of the fender because often you can wreck the whole fender when the lip is hit
and buckles.

After my light switch blew out for the second time, I removed it, cut a square hole
in the drivers side of the dash and made an aluminum panel with individual toggle
switches for the each set of lights. I also used a breaker for the seperate fuse
panel I installed for the panel.

$2 marine CB. Bought at a garage sale, it works just as good as any new CB as
far as I'm concerned and the circuit boards are protected against moisture as it's a
marine model.

Sub woofer box. There is plenty of room under the back floor. Cut a section of
floor out, build a box and weld it into the floor (with support). Use the cut out
section of floor as a door or lid.

Umm.........a whole buch of other stuff I can't think of at the moment.

jo-jo
'77 CJ5 Fozzy Locker
20 degree RTI 1250
 
G
#33 ·
12 Disk Changer:
I mounted the changer inside a 50 cal ammo can (available at surplus stores for under 10 bucks) and mounted the can to the floor behind the back seat on the left side. The lid can't be opened when the tailgate is closed due to overhang of the tailgate latch mechanism - just lock the tailgate and you automatically lock the ammo box. The can also has a rubber gasket seal to protect from moisture.

Easy waterproof and theft-resistant mount!


Chuck
1995 YJ 4.0 5spd, 3" body lift, 32" Bridgestones (w/damn 3.07 gears), Durabak
 
#34 ·
I wanted more light inside but did not want a roll bar mount. I found a lighted rear view mirror at a junk yard for $10. I needed a new mirror anyway. I routed the wireing around the windshield moulding. It is not hooked up to the dome light switch, just the switches on the mirror. Works great and plenty of light where you need it./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

Patrick Kulas
85 CJ-7
 
#35 ·
Thats so easy it qualifies for the /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gifwhy the h*** did'nt I think of that/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
Kinda tough/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif finding things in my console after dark/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif
Maybe I'll light the console itself/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif
Keep the ideas rolling!!!!!!!!!/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

85'CJ7 258 4" runnin33's
 
#37 ·
LOL/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gifI did the same thing myself/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
I guess neither of us had the mooncrew/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif to help us at that time.

85'CJ7 258 4" runnin33's
 
#38 ·
And that reminds me... When I had to repace the windshield, I had the mirror mounted much lower,
just an inch or two above the padded dash ('58 Desoto style). Now I can see the right front fender and
the mirror doesn't block out the traffic lights.


 
#39 ·
That would be /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif but would ruin my lighted mirror thingy that my non-batlike eyes could use in the dark./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

85'CJ7 258 4" runnin33's
 
#40 ·
My rear view mirror kept falling off, so I mounted it to the top of the frame where the footman loop is (I never lower the windshield anyway). I had to mount the bracket and spin the stem upsided down so I could get it to move into the correct position. Now I can see lots more out of my front window and still see a good rear-view.

Keep on Jeepin'
Scott
 
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#41 ·
I needed tow hooks up front and a bumper, so I decided to fab the factory bumper by taking about 4" off both sides, then cutting 4" by 3" squares in front of the frame rails and mounting my tow hooks on the inside of the frame rail with grade 8 hardware, the tow hooks face inward and you can easily get to them for strapping or winching. You can get an idea from the picture on my site, if you want close ups I can take a few and send them.

AustnJPR

http://www.geocities.com/austnjpr/
 
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#42 ·
I just put a wrangler pitman arm on my CJ with 2.5" suspension lift. It leveled the steering geometry perfectly. You only need to take a hack saw and file grooves were there are none. (3 plcs). These are normally throw aways from your friends! Ken

 
#43 ·
I needed to tow the jeep plus I needed someplace to mount a shackle. I built a towbar from scraps. The ends connecting to the jeep are 1/2"x3-1/2" wide stock, oriented vertically. I cut two pieces of 3x3x3/8" angle about 4" long for each side, and welded the flats to the bumper with the vertical ends of the towbar seperating them. I then drilled 7/8" holes through the whole contraption and secure them with 7/8" shackles. When I pull the towbar I have very secure shackle mounts. I also reinforced the front bumper by adding an integral winch mounting plate and tying the whole thing to the frame in several places and the front sway bar mounts. The towbar is designed so that the winch can be used while the towbar is in place.

Enjoying Montana's Big Sky (& rocks & rivers & mountians etc, You get the picture.)
 
G
#44 ·
Anyone ever seen those 'Tap Lights' on those stupid infomercials?? Guess what they're about the size and brightness of a dome light and can be easily attached to your rollbar with some hose clamps... Sounds kinda cheesy, but you get six of em for like $15.00... and no wiring needed... You could mount one under your hood too to get some light in there?!?!?! Just some ideas....

Steve

1994 YJ Sahara
 
#45 ·
OK boys the gauntlet has been laid down & the toy boys say their wippin us with ideas............lets show-em what we got.
Keep-em coming!!!!!!!/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

A little friendly rivalry never hurt anybody ,thats why we love competition/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif

85'CJ7 258 4" runnin33's
 
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#46 ·
Homesewn?

I just realized we forgot to mention the sewing of your soft top trick! It saved my wallet about a year and a half ago. Just use dental floss to sew up holes in your soft top. Some of the other guys on this board know the stitch, I know it, but don't know what it's called...Being that dental floss is nylon it's a LOT stronger than pretty much anything else that you can sew with. Than just seal it with epoxy and you're good to go. Also for repairing ripped up or shredded windows I recommend packaging tape..I change it about every 4-6 months. The reason I know all this is cuz some jerk had Jeepenvy and ripped up my top and windows causing about $2,000 in damages. /wwwthreads_images/icons/mad.gif but I fixed it all for under ten bucks. /wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gifSo now I keep both packaging tape and floss in my tool box when I'm off-roading. /wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif

Steve
/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gifJust Empty Every Pocket/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
 
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#47 ·
Well, after putting on my new custom tire carrier on my 85 CJ7 I still had the two stock mounting brackets on the body. I removed these, drilled the holes out to 1/2" and then welded them onto the rear bumper. I then mounted 2 100watt lights on them and wired them to the transmission. Now I have some killer backup lights. Total cost was $40.

 
#49 ·
Re: Homesewn?

In reply to:

I just realized we forgot to mention the sewing of your soft top trick! It saved my wallet about a year and a half ago. Just use dental floss.....Also for repairing ripped up or shredded windows I recommend packaging tape....
Even better than dental floss is heavy waxed thread, as in the speedy stitcher I describe below, then RTV (silicone) over the stitches. Packing tape makes an awful mess, there was a lot of it on my Jeep when I bought it. Here's an older post of mine describing a better way:

I just finished replacing the second of two soft top windows (they were slashed when I bought the Jeep), and have worked out a reasonably simple technique. You'll need the plastic (obviously), which I got from a place that does awnings and boat covers for $15/yard (60" wide). Don't use the thin stuff you can get from the hardware store; it will turn brittle and crack in less than a year (been there, done that). Also some double stick foam mounting tape (1/2" wide), and a "speedy stitcher" sewing awl, which has a spool of waxed thread inside the handle. You can do without the speedy stitcher and do it by hand with a big needle (as long as you use strong waxed thread, not ordinary sewing thread), but it won't be fun.

Don't cut out the old window yet, you need it to hold the top in shape. Cut the new window to the exact same size as the old one. Now apply the foam tape around the edge of the old window (to the window itself, not to the surrounding fabric). Peel off the backing, and stick the new window to the tape. Now sew all around, right through the foam tape, pulling it tight enough to compress the foam. This way it won't leak. Now you can cut out the old window at the edge of the tape. Finally, run some black (or other color) electrical tape around the edge, covering the stitching and foam tape. Good as new, and only 1/2" smaller all around.

-Dana

1. Misogynist.........Women are no good
2. Feminist...........Men are no good
3. Environmentalist...People are no good
4. Cannibal...........People are good.
 
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#50 ·
On the back up lights I did one more step, I wired it to a three way switch
on-off-on. This allowed me to shut them off for when I'm in the supermarket parking lot so I don't get them ( Martha looky at them dair brite lites) looks, or I can leave them on while in neutral to see when I hook-up a trailer or tow strap. Run a fused wire to your 3-way switch center terminal, now run one wire off a side terminal of the 3-way to your back-up switch on your trans, run another wire off the other side treminal of the 3-way, and splice it to the wire that runs from the other side of the back-up switch on the trans, and then splice these two wires to the one running back to the lights. Now you have more options, It also works great for the fools that love to run bright light behind you, but then agine you might just get a ticket or a little road rage.

 
#51 ·
I also added a switch in the ground wire (there's a ground wire to the frame 'cuz of the fiberglass body on my CJ5) for all my tail lights-- that way I can shut them all (tail, blinker, brake lights, backup) off when off road, especially after dark. There's also a red warning light under the dash to remind me to turn them on again when I get back on the pavement. Makes it a little less conspicuous when wheeling in an area where it's legal, but not fully appreciated by neighbors.

-Dana

Starve a feeding bureaucrat...vote Libertarian.