I'll tell you what you're missing: A picture of this monster jeep in your profile. I wanna see it!

-Dorian
www.4Low.com

 

Holy cow.....I want to see it when you're done....oh man I want to see that. Driveline angles might be a problem, you might want to take measurements of the engine, tranny and tcase(doesn't have to be exact) and figure out what the actual length of the drivetrain is. This way you can move the drivetrain forward or back(engine motor mounts) to optimize your driveshaft lengths. Definitely don't want to get the whole drivetrain in there and realize that the driveline angle will be to great. Regardless let us know how it turns out.

absolutjeep
http://members.tripod.com/iluvjeeps

 

I hope you set the axles up for CV shafts. I am running the SM465 and NP205 in my Scrambler with 4" superlift (SUA) and 1" shackle, rear driveshaft is 33" long. Remove 10" and you're at 23" driveshaft, then add the SOA and you're getting up there in angles. When I changed the axles (D44's), I didn't go with the CV driveshaft, and it isn't a problem now, but I want to make a set of revolver shackles and add teflon pads to the springs, so I think I'm going to have to redo it. Sounds like an awesome setup, can't wait to see it when it's done. Take pictures as you go to keep us informed of the progress. I have a CJ-3A I want to put on a Scout II frame and do pretty much the same you are, but that's a few years away. Just curious, are the axles 35 spline? Where did you get them? I haven't started looking yet, but it's nice to have the info. Thanks.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot. Check your adapter between the SM465 and NP205 for cracks. I bought a setup from a 1-ton Chevy and found the adapter cracked. Since it was a very popular setup, I figured I'd find one easy, not so. The dealership gets $220 for them (paid $250 for the setup w/bellhousing), and every one I could find around here had the same hairline crack across the top. I finally had a guy track one down in PA for $95, but it set me back a month. There is a lot of stress on the adapter so they tend to crack when abused, just thought you might want to strengthen it somehow. Chevy used to make bars that connected the two, it put some of the stress on the housings and off the adapter, but the dealership tells me it hasn't been produced since 1985.

JEEPN
'97 TJ Sport
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
'71 Commando SC-1
'51 CJ-3A
'47 CJ-2A

 

You may have to drop your T-case down to help out a bit with those angles. This may sound weird, but I'm almost certain I've seen some guys (they had Ford-powered CJ's) that had actually rotated their 205's 90 degrees to get the driveshafts to come out lower. No idea how feasible that is, but I'm sure I saw it on at least two old CJ2's that had 351/C6 combo's. With the kind of height you have & the kind of wheelin' you plan, this shouldn't cause a ground clearance problem. Check into it a lot more before you do it. I haven't done it, just seen it. So, I can offer no more advice about it. It seems that the front shaft may be at a bit of an angle if you do that, but probably no worse than the up & down angle you'd have now.

TEX

/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif Got Mud?
G.U.M.B.O. Mud Racing

 

hate to tell you this wayne, but there is allready a scrambler in NC with that set up! my friend has an 82 scramble with a dana 70 rear(with disk brakes), dana 60 front...he used a drop shackle/shackle reversal in the front with toyota springs and chevy springs in the back cause they are longer and control axle wrap more.. it rides on 44 boggers and ramps well over 1000...i'll try to get a pic

 

THANKS FOR THE SUPPORT EVERYONE!!!!!!!!...... I'LL KEEP YOU POSTED AS IT PROGRESSES. I AM TAKING PICTURES THROUGHOUT THE BUILD-UP. LOOKS LIKE RIGHT NOW I MAY HAVE A LITTLE PROBLEM GETTING IN AND OUT OF THE GARAGE SO I BUILT SKIDS TO TAKE OFF THE WHEELS SO I CAN SLIDE IT IN AND OUT OF OUR SURBURBANITE BUILT HOME (THE NEIGHBORS WILL LOVE ME, I DON'T THINK THIS WAS IN THE COVENANT) HA!
PLEASE KEEP ME POSTED IF YOU HAVE ANY MORE IDEAS ON HOW TO MAKE IT BETTER. THANKS ALL......WAYNE

 

To: ELUSIVE

By all means introduce us!! We may be twins with the same crazy ideas seperated at birth HA! Seriously I could use a little info on lessons learned as I go through the build-up. "Time" is my main issue as I am sure you can relate to the fast pace of miltary life now days. send me an e-mail..... bronson@pdcn.net maybe I can hook up with your friend if he doesn't mind. I am in Goldsboro (SJAFB). wayne

 

To: JEEPN
They are Dodge 35 spline military axles from a Security Forces armored Peacekeeper. The beauty of these axles is they are NEVER stressed as they were powered by an anemic 318 so they haven't been shock loaded and the vehicles were used for paved road convoys. (They have never been abused off-road) They come stuffed with a locked rear and 4:88 gears too! Thanks for the info!

 

Well...if you want to get that axle moved back a bit for a better angle and longer wheel-base you COULD buy the 1/4 ellipitical rear kit from Avalanche Engineering and let them know what you are doing...they should be able to set things up. I just got off the phone for them and they said it would be no problem at all to move all the mounts rearward to stick the tires on my Jeep back enough that they would JUST petrude past my bumper...whala a <180 degree departure angle! Only one confusion...in Petersen's 4Wheel&off-road it said that this setup boasted greater than 30" of TRAVEL per axle...but when I called Avalanche and asked about this I got the impression they meant articuation, not travel. The Warn kit boats 10" travel in the rear and 12" travel in the front, for "a full 40 of articulation" So which is better? I'm assuming this means that my rear axle will allow for 30" of articulation, witch is already 3/4 of the Warn kit. Going SOA on the front axle with some spring mods would make those figures go sky-high...all for about the same PRICE as the Warm kit, but without the complication of having someone install it for you (another $2k I've heard.) So...blessed be the leaf springs, those simple, amazing, durable things that amaze us so...and somehow come out on top against coils.

So to sum it all up- If I did the 1/4 in the rear and moved it way back, and did an SOA in front with a few extra goodies like Revolvers...I'd have a tall Jeep on 35s with MASSIVE flex out the whazoo and no problem with driveline angles...? Is this too good to be true? I'll ket you know when I get the $1295 for the Avalanche kit!

 

Let me know how this goes........I may have to follow your lead if things don't pan out. I had to work Y2K issues this weekend so I didn't get my drive train in.....hopefully this weekend!! The only problem I have with the "flexy suspension" can be too much droop requiring long splined driveshafts. I broke two driveshafts with long slip yokes because the splined area becomes the weak link. Damned if you and Damned if you don't! Wayne

 

Doesn't anyone make THICKER driveshafts, or are there too much balancing problems associated with these? Its not like a Jeep's driveshaft is all that long. What about using some sort of alloy, or somehow using kevlar to reinforce them?

 

Don't know about driveshafts, but we used to wind kevlar thread onto brushless dc rotors (magnet rotates - kinda inside out motor) by coating the rotor with epoxy or varnish & chucking it in a lathe. These motors held up to 100k rpm without flying apart. Unwrapped, the magnets "exploded" off the rotor at about 30k rpm. Glue holding the magnets couldn't stand the stress alone.

'80 CJ7
'84 CJ7
'76 Scout
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