Why have the anti-lock at all? Personally, I can't stand em. I disconnected and bypassed mine. As for the steering thing, the steering shaft is probably worn, as well as the brake rotors being toast due to the calipers sticking and not floating. This has been my experience with my 88.

Maverick CH 4 or 35

 

Okay, what do I do and how do I do it? What will I loose by "cutting" it all out? Is this something wise for a truck that spends 80% of it's lift on the road?
I'm bringing my trucl today to get the brakes checked.
Thanks for the help!


"Mess with the Bull and you shall get the horn"

 

Well, make sure you don't want the antilock first. Think about who drives it, and how it's driven. Anti lock is great for drivers who see a problem ahead and just mash the brakes /wwwthreads_images/icons/shocked.gif. If the driver is experienced and knows how to use regular brakes, it shouldn't be an issue. I disconnected mine for the simple fact I want to be in control of the brakes, not some computer, On and Off road. If you want to do it, reply to this post, and I'll let you know how I did mine.

Maverick CH 4 or 35

 

I couldn't disagree more.

Time and time again it has been proven that you can actually stop faster using anti-lock brakes. Especially modern anti-lock systems.

Think about it...

At 60 MPH without anti-lock brakes, you can't just stomp the brake as hard as you can. In fact, you can't brake near the limit at that speed because if you were to break the tires loose, you have a pretty good potential of losing control.

With anti-lock brakes at 60 MPH (or 100 MPH), you can just stomp the brakes as hard as you can and you will be able to brake at the maximum rate the whole time.

Another thing, most trucks are way lighter in the rear than the front (not as much in the Bronco, but still). In general you will lock your rear tires up before you even get close to maximum brake. Of course, on most trucks that could be adjusted so that the rear brakes don't come on as hard, but then you loose total braking power when you're towing something. So... in most cases it very useful to have rear anti-lock brakes on a truck... You can stop at maximum braking rate and not lock up the rear.

And there's more... Going around a corner, one side of the car is has much less stopping ability than the other. Just imagine if you could redirect the maximum braking power to the side that had the most weight on it... and not only that, but be able to use the lighter side up to it's limit as well. (Modern) Anti-lock brakes allow this.

Just my $0.02

 

you mean to tell me, I've got all this great computer stuff in an '89 FORD bronco? I thought I had just the "plain jane" anti-lock system? Hell, I better keep that in mind when I'm doing those 90 MPH turns at night in the rain, downhill. JUST BUSTING BALLS, TIS ALL!
Really, if I wanted to keep the anti-lock system, what should I start looking at to fix? I brought it in today and the brakes checked out ok. Everything is fine front and back? I should a bud what the problem was and he had no idea?
If I wanted to keep the anti-lock, how could I trouble shoot? If I wanted to get rid of it, how would I go about it?

"Mess with the Bull and you shall get the horn"

 

Check the fluid level and the level indicator. If this is off, the light will come on.

btw, the rear anti locks will keep your A$$ end from swapping in front of your front end on a panic turn.

- Dan

99 4Runner (wifes grocery getter)
My Bronco is sold.
What trail rig will be next...

 

Well, you have rear anti-lock in the '89.

I forgot to mention what I originally planned to... On my '88 the ABS light is also on... it's been that way for a few years now. And no, the rear anti-lock does not work.

I'm pretty sure my problem is in the differential. There's something not right back there. Sharp turns under hard acceleration include loud banging. I wouldn't be suprised to find the ABS mechanism messed up as well.

Some cars have the ABS sensors near/on the brakes... Your Bronco (assuming it's the same as mine) has the sensor(s) inside the differential.

You might want to take a peek inside your diff to check out the ABS sensor(s)....

Soon I'll be swapping in a different rear anyway, so I've just let it go on my truck. My dash is so dirty behind there, I can hardly see the light anyway. But I just might take a look inside mine this weekend and see what's up. I probably don't want to know... hehe

 

Thanks for the info, however everything checks out, level, rotors, pads and lines. I guess, I'll have to get in the back and start looking around. Boy my girlfriend doesn't like that
Thanks for the help.......

"Mess with the Bull and you shall get the horn"

 

Oznet, I made my post and stick by it. I'm sure there's lots of testing and studies on how anti lock brakes are superior to the standard brakes. However, I like not having them. This is just my opinion.

Maverick CH 4 or 35

 

Well, how do I do it? Without the anitlock system "on" is it going to be like driving a '66 mustang without power brakes? I had one of those and it sucked??

"Mess with the Bull and you shall get the horn"

 

Follow the rear brake line, starting at the master cylinder where the proportioning valve is screwed in, until you get to the control valve. The control valve is on the left framerail, in front of the fuel pump. Get some stainless steel fittings to bypass this unit- I used a couple of 90s and a nipple to make the u-turn. Pull the valve, install the bypass, bleed the brakes, pull the light bulb for the ABS- U R done. Works like regular old power assisted brakes.

Maverick CH 4 or 35

 

Sounds like my project for tommorrow.
Lastly, where do the power wires for my rear window run? I'm getting power to the switch and no power to the tailgate? New motor, and everything else looks fine? How do I pull that "safety thingy" out of the rear window.


"Mess with the Bull and you shall get the horn"

 

Don't know where the wire is run, but probably in between the body panels(haven't had to work on that yet). sorry, no help.

Maverick CH 4 or 35