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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Hey Tazman,
Are you planning to do this anytime soon? What lift are you running now? Surely somebody must have tried this already. Anyone with some info?
I would think if you can use the coils and shackles on a stock XJ you could use it on a lifted XJ, seeing as the coil spacers are just that, spacers, and the shackles just a little longer. With longer brake lines and possibly drive shafts(I would think probably), along with shocks it would be okay. Unless the steering linkage needs to be changed as well. What do you think?

Stafford
1992 Cherokee Laredo
Bone stock
 
Depends on the cost. I have aftermarket upper control arms, but not lower, so I know I'll probably need those. I am going to get quick disco's, but will get RE's so I can buy the center section when I lift it higher. I know there are other things that have to be replaced when you start going over 3" and I want to make sure it gets done right. I was looking at Rubicons leaf packages and a 4 1/2" pack is over $500. It would be the best way to go, but the price is high. 3 1/2" is only $250, so that with shackles might be a way to go. The front spacers are only about $30 so hopefully I can get to 4 1/2" for under $500. I am selling my wife's Intrepid and will probably dump $2000 into my XJ. I will decide what to get when that happens.

If it ain't dirty, you aren't doing it right.
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
You know I was looking at the post by 96xj and he did the same thing but with a 6" lift and added 1.5" spacers and shackles for a total lift 7". He makes reference to it in his post "rig pics" or something like that.
I think I'm going with the RC 3" and then later the Rusty's coil/shackle add on if I need more lift.


Stafford
1992 Cherokee Laredo
Bone stock
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
So anything over 4" and I would need to start replacing control arms as well? I was looking at the quick disconnects from OME, pretty reasonable prices. What about the rear sway bar? Do I really need that on or can I junk it? I had a 80 Bronco fullsize that I junked the rear sway bar and it didn't affect the handling. With the front discos and the rear sway bar gone my articualtion should improve greatly, right?

Stafford
1992 Cherokee Laredo
Bone stock
 
I don't know exactly when you have to start repacing the control arms, but I think it is after 3" and I'm sure someone will tell you definately. As far as the rear sway bar goes, there are a few people here that have removed them, but not sure of the result. I was thinking of removing mine also. My ultimate goal, which I plan to acheive, is a 1000+ ramp score. There is an XJ at the RE website that shows a 1111 score. He has a 6 1/2" lift. I want to get up to that height(or score) and then start adding other ammenities.

If it ain't dirty, you aren't doing it right.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I'd like to get that kind of height and articulation but I think I'm going to stay on the mild side and go with the 3", some disconnects, better shocks and longer brake lines. I do a lot of hunting and fishing here and I rarely will ever see the wheelin you do in the mainland. Still if its possible to get a little higher with the coils/shackles, who knows.

Stafford
1992 Cherokee Laredo
Bone stock
 
Tazman,

I'm a big fan of articulation too, but all the flex in the world wont get you as far as a couple lockers.... You might want to look into those first.

Also, you need to keep the front and rear suspension movement balanced. So they work together, instead of one maxing out before the other even begins to flex. I plan on putting coils on the front of my YJ, and quarter-elliptical springs in the rear. This would mean that when I went up a ramp, the rear suspension would start flexing first, causing massive body lean. However I'm going to figure out some sort of hydraulic system to keep 25% of the weight on each tire.
On the trail, what really works, is keeping 25% of the weight on each tire. So it doesn't look as cool, it sure works like a charm though /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

Make it up as you go.
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ARB air locker in front and limited-slip Dana 44 in the rear. I think I have that part covered for the most part. I have a passion for that 1000 ramp score(call me crazy) and I have plans to do some rock crawling. Once I get the articulation and maybe a full locker rear, I am going to get bead locker wheels and some used rock tires and have those for crawling. Lots of plans, little money. Got to take it step-by-step.

If it ain't dirty, you aren't doing it right.
Image
 
sycho, have you seen kinetic suspension set-ups?

If I didn't have a Jeep, I wouldn't have a life.

'88 MJ SporTruck
Rebuilt 2.5L: 40 over rings, 10 on crank, 10 on bearings
nearing 400K
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Looked at the lockers, on advice from here I'm ordering the EZ-locker, how important is it to have that front locker? I was thinking of getting a winch for the front.

Stafford
1992 Cherokee Laredo
Bone stock
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Hey Sycho,
So is it possible to combine the two lifts without to much complications?(springs/spacers&AAL/extended shackles)Would it alter the way the lifted coils and AAL work to have that add ons?

Stafford
1992 Cherokee Laredo
Bone stock
 
Yes, I have seen the kinetic suspension setup. I e-mailed the company and got no response. I can't figure out how they keep 25% on each corner, while still allowing the entire suspension to bottom out on a hard landing.

The Grand Cherokee is supposed to be getting this suspension from the factory in a few years. I'll wait a bit until the depreciation brings the price down enough, and then maybe get one for a tow rig /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

I would absolutely love to put that suspension on the MJ, but since they aren't returning any mail I'll just have to make do with coil-over-shocks /wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif

Uplandhawaii- yes you can put coil spacers with extended coils (quite a few guys on the SWB BBS have done this with their TJs), and longer shackles with modified leaf packs. These methods are usually used to 'fine-tune' the rig to make it sit level. For instance, if you put Comanche leaves in the rear of you XJ somehow, and only had 4" lift coils on the front of the Jeep, you could stick 1-1.5" spacers up front to level it out, or 2" spacers up front and new shackles in the rear for the extra .5-1" height.

Just remember that the extra height might push your steering, driveshafts, or control arms past their limits. Take into account the other modifications you may need to make for the extra couple inches of height.

Make it up as you go.
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I'm in a truck competiton at school and we have tried reaching that company without response, as well. One thing that is super helpful, though, if you want to try to fabricate the system is to go and do a search for the patents online. I found a host of the systems with full-description images of the setups as well. It's not complicated, but I don't know where to find cylinders to withstand over 3000 lbs.
I'll try to find the site with the patents again for you 'cause they're worth a look. Monroe Shock is supposed to manufacture the system from Tenneco for the ZJ for the 2003 model year, but I don't know if that will happen for sure.

If I didn't have a Jeep, I wouldn't have a life.

'88 MJ SporTruck
Rebuilt 2.5L: 40 over rings, 10 on crank, 10 on bearings
nearing 400K
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Thanks Sycho, I'm in the process of getting the lift from RC. Once thats installed I'll see if I need more lift or am satisfied with that. You guys gave me a lot of great tips, THANKS!!

Stafford
1992 Cherokee Laredo
Bone stock
 
That's a pretty sharp truck for being almost 10 yrs old. Awesome find. I am looking foward to watching the transformation....

If it ain't dirty, you aren't doing it right.
Image
 
Front lockers are pretty much for the hardcore. They can strain a t-case pretty good and make the truck inefficient. But if your are really going to hit the hard stuff, they are a reasonable additon. Not for a daily driver.

If I didn't have a Jeep, I wouldn't have a life.

'88 MJ SporTruck
Rebuilt 2.5L: 40 over rings, 10 on crank, 10 on bearings
nearing 400K
 
I'm of a different opinion on front lockers. I think they are the perfect setup for a daily driver. Why? Because you drive around town on the rear axle, and if you have a locker back there you must live with its handling quirks (squealing around corners, increased tire wear, and torque steer). With a locker in the front, you'll never notice its there in 2wd- when you dont need it.

Since your not putting power to it from the driveshaft, it doesn't stay locked up. It should just sit up front and ratchet all the time, or at worst spin the inner half of the passenger axle shaft. As long as the passenger-side shaft isn't engaged though, your not spinning the passenger side tire and handling is not effected.

Now, for a trail vehichle I prefer them in the back. When you are going uphill, more weight is on the back tires, so you get more traction. Also, it makes it difficult to steer with a front locker while locked into 4-wheel-drive.

Make it up as you go.
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