I was looking on Ebay and found them for zuks for $50 bucks. Anyone know if there worth it. If it would work 1/2 as good as an underdrive pully I'd buy it.
3232
Alf from NZ has one fitted to his motor. I believe he really liked it...
Contact him. He'll give you the heads up on it......
Contact him. He'll give you the heads up on it......
here is an interesting thing on the 1600 16v there are some bars that go from one main cap to the next. originally I though a crank gurdle but looking closer at it it has verry little strength. looking closer at it I believe it is a sort of crank scraper. It is about 1/2 an inch from the closest rotating part of the crank.
No, those racks are a main cap girdle set . Yes, they are strong enough to make a difference , I tried to bend an extra I had and it's some pretty tough material . The only two engines from Suzuki I've seen use these are the Swift GT's and the 1.6 16v motors .....like the one I'm building now .
Sarge
Sarge
This is kind-of off topic but when I built my Honda race motor I had my crank knife-edged (among other things). That sucker would rev-up instantly but I noticed that I needed to stay there. A stock motor could kill me off the line if I wasn't near 9k. Granted a stock motor with a scraper wouldn't be the same but how much advantage really would it give? Most here are looking to go slow and the gain would only be minimal, no? I could see it if the whole motor was being gone-through and built-up.
In my opinion though these motors offer their best when they aren't modded. It is their reliability that most attracts me.
I know first hand that maintainance is better than mods of equal value.
In my opinion though these motors offer their best when they aren't modded. It is their reliability that most attracts me.
I know first hand that maintainance is better than mods of equal value.
Taz, the crank oil scraper keeps oil from being flung up into the entire rotating assembly at high RPMs and creating an oil milkshake that robs some HP. To work right it has to be clearanced really close to the crank. This is the one on Ebay. oil scraper
![Image]()
![Image]()
Given the low price, and the relatively easy installation, I would say, why not?
Whenever I go mud chuckin', I usually keep it pegged between 3k-5k in the holes, so some more power and freer revving would be an upside.
http://www.crank-scrapers.com/
Actually, Alfie's testimony is at the bottom of their page as well....
Whenever I go mud chuckin', I usually keep it pegged between 3k-5k in the holes, so some more power and freer revving would be an upside.
http://www.crank-scrapers.com/
Actually, Alfie's testimony is at the bottom of their page as well....
from looking at the pieces the one that bolts down around the pan gasket surface looks good the one that uses the main cap bolts worries me. I would like to see it mounted down the length not just too bolts in the middle. I would worry that over time the vibration may cause failure and if it does fail. It is going to cause some real damage.
Ok, a few things folks should know about this . One, these scrapers were designed primarily for dry sump oil system engines . Remember too those engines are built with oil passage drilled rods to lube and spray the skirts and lube the cylinder walls . A properly designed scraper will remove the oil from the crank at a very tight clearance and keep it in the sump . The best ones are actually fitted individually to the crank , not just some generic fit . Yep, they can actually do some good , but most here aren't going to wind an engine to 8k+ for any length of time . That drawing of the "tornado cloud" of oil is meant to keep the cylinder walls lubed . A scraper will to some extent take that away . Also note that unless they are properly designed they can hold excessive amounts of oil above the crank and make the problem worse .
Sarge
Sarge
G
We make them from 12 gauge steel (2.5mm or .10") so this is a very, very remote possibility. This is about 2-3 times the thickness of existing crank scraper products.
The stiffening girdle on the main bearing caps of the G13B is only about .5mm thicker.
"from looking at the pieces the one that bolts down around the pan gasket surface looks good the one that uses the main cap bolts worries me. I would like to see it mounted down the length not just too bolts in the middle. I would worry that over time the vibration may cause failure and if it does fail. It is going to cause some real damage."
The stiffening girdle on the main bearing caps of the G13B is only about .5mm thicker.
"from looking at the pieces the one that bolts down around the pan gasket surface looks good the one that uses the main cap bolts worries me. I would like to see it mounted down the length not just too bolts in the middle. I would worry that over time the vibration may cause failure and if it does fail. It is going to cause some real damage."
G
Well, the use of a crank scraper in the Pontiac GTO wet sump engine preceded the dry sump scraper array patent that I saw in the patent library. Windage losses are a problem for both engines.
Usually oil jets are directed at the pistons for cooling purposes. Quickly moving that heated oil into the sump is an advantage. There is still plenty of oil constantly being flung about the crankcase from the mains and rods. Oil actually heats up and degrades while being churned in the rotating assembly.
We now have scrapers with teflon blades that will individually form fit to rotating parts for virtually zero clearance -- that is state of the art (patent pending).
Performance in the Suzuki G10 engine increased from roughly 2750rpm on to 5300rpm (max output for the stock cam). An average of 3% hp increase over four dyno pulls (data ranged from 2.5% to 3.5%). Remember that this is in an engine that already has a full windage tray.
We do add drainage holes to patterns that might trap excessive amounts of oil on top of them. The "classic" drain free design has been in use for about 30 years so I am not sure how great a problem this is. The G10 and G13 scraper pictured easily allow oil to drain back on the side nearest the crankcase wall.
Kevin
"Ok, a few things folks should know about this . One, these scrapers were designed primarily for dry sump oil system engines . Remember too those engines are built with oil passage drilled rods to lube and spray the skirts and lube the cylinder walls . A properly designed scraper will remove the oil from the crank at a very tight clearance and keep it in the sump . The best ones are actually fitted individually to the crank , not just some generic fit . Yep, they can actually do some good , but most here aren't going to wind an engine to 8k+ for any length of time . That drawing of the "tornado cloud" of oil is meant to keep the cylinder walls lubed . A scraper will to some extent take that away . Also note that unless they are properly designed they can hold excessive amounts of oil above the crank and make the problem worse .
Sarge"
Usually oil jets are directed at the pistons for cooling purposes. Quickly moving that heated oil into the sump is an advantage. There is still plenty of oil constantly being flung about the crankcase from the mains and rods. Oil actually heats up and degrades while being churned in the rotating assembly.
We now have scrapers with teflon blades that will individually form fit to rotating parts for virtually zero clearance -- that is state of the art (patent pending).
Performance in the Suzuki G10 engine increased from roughly 2750rpm on to 5300rpm (max output for the stock cam). An average of 3% hp increase over four dyno pulls (data ranged from 2.5% to 3.5%). Remember that this is in an engine that already has a full windage tray.
We do add drainage holes to patterns that might trap excessive amounts of oil on top of them. The "classic" drain free design has been in use for about 30 years so I am not sure how great a problem this is. The G10 and G13 scraper pictured easily allow oil to drain back on the side nearest the crankcase wall.
Kevin
"Ok, a few things folks should know about this . One, these scrapers were designed primarily for dry sump oil system engines . Remember too those engines are built with oil passage drilled rods to lube and spray the skirts and lube the cylinder walls . A properly designed scraper will remove the oil from the crank at a very tight clearance and keep it in the sump . The best ones are actually fitted individually to the crank , not just some generic fit . Yep, they can actually do some good , but most here aren't going to wind an engine to 8k+ for any length of time . That drawing of the "tornado cloud" of oil is meant to keep the cylinder walls lubed . A scraper will to some extent take that away . Also note that unless they are properly designed they can hold excessive amounts of oil above the crank and make the problem worse .
Sarge"
G
Yes I have one of Kevins scrapers fitted. Had it for several months now.
Yes it was worth the effort.
My zuk just accelerates up (spools?) much quicker. It is noticable.
On the highway, flat road, no wind, my engine revs at the legal limit of 100 kph, fell by 200 rpm.
I can now pull 6500 rpm in fifth gear. ( more probably )
Two. I have a Gti hybrid motor a la G. Beasley.
That is it's an 8Valve Gti swift. with 2"pipe, headers, 44 mm SU carb, underdrive crank pulley, adjustable cam sprocket,oil cooler, etc. etc.
This block has the ability to rev high. And it does.
I believe that for me, and my application, the scraper was a great addition to my motor.
I recommend them.
Also, Kevin was a great guy to deal with.
As stated above, Fifty Dollars ? It's a steal.
Alf.
Yes it was worth the effort.
My zuk just accelerates up (spools?) much quicker. It is noticable.
On the highway, flat road, no wind, my engine revs at the legal limit of 100 kph, fell by 200 rpm.
I can now pull 6500 rpm in fifth gear. ( more probably )
Two. I have a Gti hybrid motor a la G. Beasley.
That is it's an 8Valve Gti swift. with 2"pipe, headers, 44 mm SU carb, underdrive crank pulley, adjustable cam sprocket,oil cooler, etc. etc.
This block has the ability to rev high. And it does.
I believe that for me, and my application, the scraper was a great addition to my motor.
I recommend them.
Also, Kevin was a great guy to deal with.
As stated above, Fifty Dollars ? It's a steal.
Alf.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
