1978 Suzuki TS185 deceleration problem - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-12-2010, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Talking 1978 Suzuki TS185 deceleration problem

Hello,I am new to the forum and need your help.Purchased a 1200 mile TS185 fresh from a barn in almost like new condition except the engine had been severely corroded from water damage.Purchased another engine from Ebay and totally rebuilt it using new gaskets,bearings,Wiesco piston and connecting rod.Carb was in like new condition and was cleaned and new gaskets and orings installed.All throttle and oil injection cables were adjusted to factory specs.Factory timing marks were used.Petcock was cleaned. The bike runs flawlessly except when you let off the throttle it surges and lightly pops back through the exhaust.The engine has about 3000 miles on it since it was rebuilt and has done this since it was first overhauled.The reed valve and reed valve block are original as I have not been able to locate one.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2010, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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After doing a lot of research and reading up on leak down tests,I built a functional leak down tester for about $30.00 courtesy of a manual blood pressure tester from Wal-Mart for $11.00 and the rest from Home Depot.The first test was a leak from the carb to jug boot on the jug side.After repairing this the second test was done.After spraying the whole engine,it was determined that the left side crank seal is the problem.Will do a rebuild in the fall.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Smile 1978 Suzuki TS185 EC

Rebuilt the top end,replaced the reed valve assembly with O.E. parts,new carb to cylinder air boot and new throttle cables.Replaced the left side crank seal. Did another vacum test and the results were great. One important note on the newer Suzuki throttle cables-the lead barrels at the ends of the cables are smaller than original. As per the shop manual you can not go by the original adjustment procedure. Take the cover off the carb that covers the cable mechanism and tighten each cable until there is no slack then back off a 1/4 turn. Once you are finished there adjust the oil pump. It now runs great. If any one has ever done everything correctly and has a good vacum leak down test and you still have a slight glitch off idle,there is a seal on the cable shaft that connects to the slide mechanism. It shrinks and hardens with age. You can order this from a company called MOTORCYCLECARBS.COM.
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