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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I suck at wiring, the PO kinda butchered my jeep's wiring and I want it simple and done right. Tomorow i'm picking up a painless harness for the TBI and need help on what to get for the rest of the jeep.

I know several people here have used a cheeper wiring harness kit then the painless one. Which one did you use and did you like it? I think I'll be allright with a 12 fuse box

I'll have:
Head/ Parking Lights
Turn Signals
Brake Lights
Hazards
Fuel Pump
Ignition
Heater
CB Radio
Gaugues
Reverse lights
Wipers

I might but probably will not have
AM/FM Radio
More circuts for the tbi injection (not sure if it needs any more or not, painless harness on the way for the TBI)

I'm going for the Bare Bones approach with my jeep, creature comforts add weight and are something else to break. Will i get by with a 12 circut harness?

For my gauges is it pretty simple to make up a gauge harness or is it cheeper to buy the painless harness for $60.
I plan on having
Tach
Water temp
Oil Pressure
Volts
Trans Temp

Where did you get your switches from? A jegs 6 button switch kit with push button starter is $75 which seems like a lot for switches

I want switches for
Push button starter
Toggle wipers (3 posistion switch)
Toggle Turn signals (3 posistion switch)
Head lights (3 posistion high/low beams)
Reverse light (my shifter might have a switch for that though not sure if i want a manual switch for that, guess i could leave the ignition off and the trans in reverse for revese lights)
Ignition/ fuel pump
Heater (3 position switch)
Hazards

what will i need relays for? I'm not sure exactly what i'll need em for, I'm guessing just about everything. Please give me direction, pretty soon i'm going to have to start ordering up a bunch of wiring stuff, jeep is going to be done right w/ a lil bling.
 

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Andy, I bought a Centech Kit but haven't installed it yet. I did look at it and it seems pretty complete and also idiot proof......lol. I'd suggest looking at their website, it seems pretty self explanatory. If you have any other questions about it, talk to them, they were very helpful. Yes, a 12 ckt. fuse block should be plenty.
 

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If you 'Suck At Wiring', why are you doing this to yourself?...

That being said,
Buy a generic wiper switch with things like washer switch and wiper arm 'Park' built into the switch.
They are cheap (usually under $15) and will solve tons of problems you don't even know you have yet...

Toggle switch with pushbutton start is a VERY good way to get your rig stolen.
Briggs & Stratton makes a nifty little key switch for cheap,(around $12) and it works well.
Remember to hide a kill switch somewhere that gounds out the coil.
Even a good thief can't figure out a ground coil in one or two minutes.
Electric fuel pump cut outs are a good idea also.
If you do run an electric fuel pump, (and you will with Fuel Injection) you also want to run the fuel pump cut out if the engine stalls, DON'T LEAVE THAT OUT...

Switch panels are a rip off and a waste of money.
Want a heavy duty one, Go to the local welding shop and get a 16" piece of angle aluminum.
Want a light duty one, go to the local sheet metal place or hardware store and get folded metal angle, (not angle iron).

Buy 3/8" & 1/2" drill bits. Actually, buy a 3/16" pilot bit and a 'Unibit'. That will make your life a lot simplier.

Buy a VERY GOOD set of wire cutters & Terminal crimpers.
That's not Wire cutters WITH terminal crimpers...
If you do, the cutter, stripper, crimpers will always be in the wrong place on the tool.
Long handle crimpers are a good idea, good leverage.

Always leave the wires 3" longer than you think you should.
That way, you will have fresh wire when the elements eat the quick terminals off...

Another trick is to make temporary wire looms out of wire ties or loops of stiff wire.
That way, you can add or remove wires until everything gets where it's going, and you already have them together and mostly the same length and tension.
Now all you have to do is cut your wires to length, and put on your wire wraps.
(You ARE going to use wire wraps, AREN'T YOU?)

If you want to make a flexable wiring harness hold a particular shape, (like over a valve cover and up off a header or away from pullies in the front of the engine) run a 10 or 12 Gauge solid copper wire (like household wiring) in the bundle when you wrap it.
That way, the heavy solid wire will keep what ever shape you bend it into.
If it still wants to sag, double the heavy copper, or go to a larger gauge.

Don't forget to use grommits in the holes through sheet metal!
Sheet metal and vibration are wiring killers, and the problems will be intermittant, so they will be a b!tch to find.

If you do turn signals and 4 way flashers, then use a 'Signal Stat' type turn signal from a big truck.
These use a two flasher arrangment, have the 4 way switch built in, and will probably last a lifetime... Unless you get them under water!
They cost a few more bucks, but there are 'Signal Stat' made for farm tractors and such that have water resistant boots on them.

Your 'Pain In The A$$' kit will have the connector for the early GM style headlight switch.
Here is the wiring diagram for that switch,
http://www.junkyardgenius.com/wiring/headsw1.jpg

Let us know if you have any more problems, (And I'm Sure You Will!) and we can help!
Aaron.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks TR. I was definetly planning on using wiring loom and clamps everywhere, this isn't something to 1/2 ass. I'm doing it my self so i know how every thing works when i need to trouble shoot something. I was thinking about using waterproof crimp on terminals and for some connections heat shrink and solder. I think i can order them through work for dirty cheep. I've allready got a good set of crimpers and will probably buy a good cutter/striper.
 

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For connections I have found Radio Shack's Solder Weld. It gives you a 3rd hand.
You slide the shrink tube over one side, twist the wires together, squirt this stuff on the twist, take a butane torch back and forth over the stuff until it (Tins? - If I remember my electronics class) the connection. Slide the shrink tubing over the conection and hit it with the torch.

Nice thing is with a razor and the torch you can disconnect the connection later if you messed up. 97% of Thor's connections are done this way with never a problem, or corrosion.
 

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Hmmm...

But nothing is better then real soldering.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Hmmm...

But nothing is better then real soldering.

[/ QUOTE ]

I argee. It's that 3% that leaves you stranded.:D

If you are getting real waterproof terminals then you better have a tool that works for that connector.And buy the wire recommended for that terminal.

Check the temperature range of the wire your buying. A lot is only rated for 125*F and will quickly deteriate under the hood. I like using Teflon insulated wires myself. THey don't "dry" out and crack letting moister in which leads to corrosion. I've stripped many a good looking wire only to find corrosion has spread under the insulation.

Buy different color wire! It helps in troubleshooting something later. You could also buy wire labels. If your going to make your own connecotrs use ones with gold plated contacts. They will last much longer.

Were to use relays.?
Headlights, auxillary lights
Fuel pump
Manifold heater
Electric cooling fans if used.
Any place high current has to be switched. Right now most of the current passes thru the ignition switch which quickly oveerheats and fails. You just cant keep on adding on accessories without consquenses. New vehicals can't turn on a dome light without some relay being activated.

Plan out your wiing in advance. Make upo your own schematic that you atleast understand.

I'm realy suprized that the Pinless wiring harness doesn't use the factory Jeep headlight switch.

You know, by the time you get the right wire, terminals, contacts, switches, feedthrus, and fuse block. Your going to find out that the Painless Harness isn't that far overpriced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the tips, i'll use real solder, i'm allright with that.

Painless doesn't make a stock yj harness and i want to cut a lot of things out like interior lights, factory gauges, radio, factory under hood wiring.

I also want to make a flat dash and get rid of all the factory switches.

My favorite 4wd shop recomended these guys http://www.kwikwire.com

I'm thinking about using their 8 circut harness which includes "Our 8 Circuit Harness will wire your car from front to back . Headlight Group includes Headlights high And low Beam Parking Lights and both right & left turn signals Motor Group Includes Starter , neutral safety , Alternator , distributor and coil. Tail Group includes Brake Lights, tail lights , third brake light speaker wire and dome light. Interior wire includes all wire for your G.M. column all your wire for the dash lighting & instrument panel (Gauges), Radio Ignition hot "

Only thing it doesn't include is fuel pump but couldn't i use the radio ignition hot for my fuel pump which will be iniside in the back of the jeep. It's $195 and they say all wires are cimped & soldered, gxl rated, and marked every 4" whith what they are for.

How do i wire the ignition and fuel pump to shut off when the motor stalls?

Anybody ever mount their computer and fuse box in an amo can to keep it out of the elements. I'm trying to think how i could seal all the wiring going through it and i'd put a breather either right in the amo can or plumbed to the top of the cage.
 
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I would put the computer in the cab. You should have an existing hole in the firewall where your old computer went.....there are some aftermarkter 'grommets/clamps that work well. I would do that instead of putting it in an ammo can. You want the computer to get proper air circulation.

Regarding the fuel pump....the computer should have an output to drive the fuelpump relay. Use that output. It will do the rest. It should energize the relay for 2 seconds when you first turn on the ignition and while cranking. Once the computer sees the engine running, it keeps the relay energized.

What engine are you putting in? In my case I'm installing a Chevy TBI...it already includes the oil press and water temp feeds...but I'm not useing them...I'm using my stock ones.

If you buy aftermarket gauges...most of them will include the sensor...you just have to include the wires in the harness.

You will need relays for...
Fuel Pump
Fan
Maybe the starter (depending on the type of TBI)
Electric cooling fan

As TR said, do NOT use a toggle for starting...unless you want to give away your jeep.

On wire....make sure you use automotive wire....it has thicker insulation to tollerate the bending and rubbing you have in vehicles....and never use solid wire. The trick TR was talking about was as a stiffner/shape holder for the wire loom....

On any custom wires, make sure you use a common color standard...Red for Hot, black for ground, white for sensors...etc. And make sure you use wire labels...the heat shrink kind are best...they don't peal off when it gets hot.

Good Luck
 

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The 'Ammo Can' idea is for armor for the computer.

The '21st Century' verson of the 'Ammo Can' will have to accomidate air flow as well as armor.

Turn the can upside down, this creates a bubble so water can't enter.
Cut one hole in the bottom (Lid) of the can and install a computer fan (many computer fans run on 12 volts) pulling air OUT of the can.

Cut a second hole, and install a screen over the hole for a filter.

You will also have to cut/install the connector harness for the module.

Once your module is installed inside the can, fabricate a devider for the can that runs top to bottom, and only allows for clearance around the module.
This will direct airflow up and over the module when the fan is running.
Leave a little extra clearance around the module for the air flow over the surface of the module, extracting heat as it passes, to be exhausted by the fan.

A computer fan isn't strong enough to draw in water, the screen keeps bugs and splashing out of the box, 100% of air flow is directed over the module, and you have a HEAVLY ARMORED computer module!.

Or you could just mount your module high up under the dash where it can get airflow and forget it!
 

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I understand that turning the can upside down creates a bubble. But then you're going and cutting a hole in the top of it......which wouldn't that then make it not hold a bubble and instead let water in?
 

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Cut all three holes in the bottom. One for the fan, one with the screen, one for the wiring harness.
 
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