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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
YOU KNOW THAT RED WIRE THAT GOES FROM THE FIREWALL FUSEBOX (DRIVERS SIDE )AND GOES TO THE COIL ,ITS IN THE HARNESS AT THE FIREWALL,WELL MINE GETS HOT WITH THE IGNITION ON IN MY 83 CJ7 258/AUTO WHY?MY 84 CJ7 SAME APPLICATION DOESN'T TIA

jsjps
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Sound like to much current is flowing in the wire.
The red wire is a resistance wire (1.35 ohms) which reduces the voltage to the coil so it won't burn out.
If you have a good meter you can measure the coil resistance (1.13 to 1.23 ohms) or the coil current (2.0 - 2.4 amps engine running). If the coil resistance is Ok but the coil current is to high the control unit is shot.
It might be easyier to just swap the control unit or the coil between the two Jeeps and see if the wire heats up in the other Jeep.

 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check the connection at the coil. If it's loose it will create too much resistance and thus cause an increase in current. Mine used to smoke when I start the engine. I tightened the nut, it starts easier and no smoke.

Good Luck,

nj/cj-7

 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Just for the heck of it disconnect the red wire at the start solenoid on the "I" terminal and see if it seems to have load on it. If it does, and if the wire quits getting hot, the solenoid may have a short somewhere. OR....disconnect the red wire at the ignition which comes from the solenoid. OR...check the wire that goes to the oil pressure switch that runs the automatic choke heater...see it it is hot./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
do you mean ignition 'on' and the jeep 'not running' if thats the case then its simply shorting out to the distributor,if the points are closed on the dist. then its a ground at that point and the red wire is sending low votage to it and it will get hot.if you crank the engine over a few times, chances are that it will stop with the points open and the red wire will stay cool. in short form dont leave the key forward on a points type ignition put it in the acc or back position if you dont plan to run the engine. hope this helps

a bad day in a jeep
is better than
a good day at work!
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Control unit, Module, same thing.
Some of the CJ schematics I have call it an "Electronic Control Unit"
some call it an "Electronic Ignition Pack" or "Module Ass'y Ignition"
it's all the same thing. Sorry, not trying to be a smart a**.

Also, when I first saw your post I jumped to a few assumptions, like a mostly stock I6 258 with the stock ignition and wiring. After reading some of your other posts I got the impression you've made a number of changes, V8 and new alternator. What is the present configuration? Is it a V8, what is the distributor, points or magnetic pickup, which ignition module are you using, the stock one or the one that came with the V8.
Also, what was the story with the alternator and over charging, maybe that damaged the ignition module.

 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
YOUR RIGHT,I LEFT ALOT OUT,MY OLD CONFIGURATION WAS 1983 WITH 258 AND GM HEI WITH ALL COMPUTER WIRES OUT,THEN I PUT IN A 360 FROM A 1980 J-10,I AM USING THE MODULE/COIL FROM THE 83 CJ FROM BEFORE THE HEI IT IS PLUGGED INTO THE STOCK 1980 DURASPARK V8 DIST,(I BELIEVE THIS DIST IS CONCIDERED SOLID STATE AND NOT POINTS TYPE,OR AM I WRONG?)MY CONCERN WAS THAT THE COIL WIRE AND THE BROWN WIRE TO THE ALT(DELCO)WERE GETTING HOT,WHEN I HAD THE IGNITION ON,AND THE COIL WIRE PLUGGED IN,WHEN I UNPLUG THE COIL WIRE IT COOLS OFF,BUT IN READING SOME RESPONSES I HERE THAT THIS MAY BE NORMAL,BECAUSE BOTH WIRES ARE RESISTER WIRES,I DIDN'T NOTICE IT ON THE CJ BEFORE,BECOUSE AS SOON AS I BOUGHT IT I INSTALLED THE GM HEI,SO I GUESS MY QUESTION NOW IS HOW HOT SHOULD THE COIL WIRE AND THE BROWN WIRE GOING TO THE ALT GET?MABE I DONT EVEN HAVE A PROBLEM OTHER THAN LACK OF KNOWLEDGE.THANX TO ALL WHO RESPONDED.

jsjps
 
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