Off Roading Forums banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Both of my hard doors stick out on the bottom below the handle. They seem perfectly lined up, but the bottom corners do not close flush with the body. It's driving me crazy! I adjusted the windshield frame, and when the door is closed, the door is flush with the body at the stiker's level. Thoughts?

'84 CJ-7, 4.2, 3.5" Lift, 31's, YJ tub, TR upgrade, Moser 1 piece, LED's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,705 Posts
Are you using CJ or YJ doors with the tub? Is the hard top a CJ or YJ?

Could be the body's tweaked also.

85 CJ-7 258/T176/D300 Scout D44s F&R with Lock-Rites and 4.56 gears. 4" springs with lift shackles 36" SS TSL Radials Hella Rallye 4000s for guiding small planes into the woods
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
YJ doors, and tub. I'm a bit confused about the tub, cause the body has the vent holes in the cowl for the CJ defroster system, but the guy swears it's from a YJ. I have a YJ tailgate, and YJ style hardware, so I assume it is a YJ tub. Plus, he told me the body didn't line up exactly with the frame mounts, so he had to drill 2 mounts out. Does that sound right? Oh yeah, I have a soft-top

'84 CJ-7, 4.2, 3.5" Lift, 31's, YJ tub, TR upgrade, Moser 1 piece, LED's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,432 Posts
The whole tub/door/windshield frame are out of alignment. The post has been adjusted "in" to make the doors fit securely against the hard top. Try the following:

1. Tub is "square" not twisted out of alignment.
2. Windshield is square with the tub.
3. Hard Door locks are adjusted, lubed and working correctly (translation: you don't have to slam the Doors to get them to shut tightly.)

Here's how I adjust my Hard Doors:

1. Make sure Hardtop lip is level all the way around the body.
2. Make sure the Windshield angle is the same on the right and left sides.
3. Loosen ALL hinge bolts, on the body and the Doors.
4. Finger tightens all bolts.
5. Cut strips to cardboard 1" wide, and combine them so it makes a strip about ¼" high.
6. Tape the strip to the bottom of the Door tub lip, extending on up to the latch area.
7. Slowly close the Door adjusting the Door so that it just clears the cardboard.
8. Examine the front Hard Door skin edge in relation to the body. The skin should not be touching the tub, but have about 1/16" to 1/8" gap between the two.
9. The Hard Door should hang vertically, and the rear Door skin edge should be evenly gaped with the body.
10. By using these rules of thumb you should be able to get a good closure of the Doors.
11. Don't forget to makes sure they fit tight against the tub with the Hardtop removed.
12. Once fitted, now adjust the windshield as necessary or use sticky backed foam seal to make up the gap between the leading edge of the upper Hard Door and the windshield frame.
13. Fit the Hardtop and make sure it's now square with the Hard Doors.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
LEVE, you scare me with your knowledge and thoroughness.

Thanks.

'84 CJ-7, 4.2, 3.5" Lift, 31's, YJ tub, TR upgrade, Moser 1 piece, LED's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
773 Posts
I'd check the door seals also. I had one that was mangled a bit from a previous owner and was causing a slight bind that kept the door from closing flush.

BMB

 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top