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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Out of the six bolts that held my t-case skid plate on, 4 broke when i removed it and the other 2 had to be ground off. Today i was trying to drill the bolts out so that i could retap them and then put my new skid plate on. NO LUCK AT ALL!/wwwthreads_images/icons/mad.gif I ended up braking 5 drill bits and worse hurting myself. (1 of the bits took a big chunk of skin with it when it went flying...)
I have a nice set of bolt extractors and those werent working either. What is going on?? Help please...

btw I was drilling straight into the frame. The bits are 118 deg. points and when they "bit" into the metal my drill demolished them. man this sucks

My jeep has lost 75 pounds on the new diet,... the rust elimination diet/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 

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your drill bit was too sharp. That is a common problem with these new hightec drill bits. Just go out and get some good old relaible bits. Use lots of oil and drill slow. almost forgot drill a small hole first. Maybe 1/8 or smaller. Then double that to the next bit. and so on till you get to what you want.

Can someone please bring me a hammer my 33's just ate my fender again. Damn i need more lift.
 
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Pontiac is right. Drill bits must be made of extremely hard steel (tempered0. Problem is that they are brittle. Try the older used bits Use lots of cutting oil or 90wt gear oil. It will be alot easier if you drill a smaller pilot hole first. If that doesn't work, try some of the Black and Decker split point bits. They are 2 bits in one. They have a smaller pilot bit and a larger main bit that work great on metal. I wish you luck and yes, I have been there before. /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

William
1980 CJ7 258 Holley EFI / Mallory Unilite/ Dana 44F ARB / AMC20 1-piece Detroit / T-98A tranny / D300 / Ramsey RE10,000lb / ARB Snorkel
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i was starting with a small bit and working my way up... I guess its a problem most people would like to have but all my tools are new. My dad wouldnt know which way to turn a screw driver so i had to buy all my tools in the last couple of years.

Any tricks to using the oil while upside down? Rember these are holes for skidplate. Thanks

My jeep has lost 75 pounds on the new diet,... the rust elimination diet/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 
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I kind of hate to suggest this, but it may be the best solution, and I'm gonna get a bunch of you'll weaken the frame responses. anyway, here goes. Those bolts are attached to nuts welded inside your frame. Cut a small hole in the frame (I've used a very small cutting wheel), bust the nut loose or torch it loose, take that sucker outta there, weld new nut in place, patch the hole by MIG welding the piece back in. BTW, if you do it right and cut just a big enough hole to make do, you will not weaken the frame enough to matter. And don't use a torch to weld.

Brad
ORC Land Use Editor
Land Use
VP RockGarden 4 Wheelers, Aztec, NM
RockGarden 4 Wheelers
 

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It would be messy but you could put some gear oil on the frame above the broken bolts and let it make its way down to where you are drilling. Then just replenish the oil every minute or so. Might want to even use 140W so it flows down the frame slower to stay in place longer. Just pull your drill bit in and out to get the tip coated with oil again.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
how big of tanks would i need?? I think i should probally rent them because i will be leaving for college in a year. Does anyone have a favorite "package deal" the rest of the set up?

My jeep has lost 75 pounds on the new diet,... the rust elimination diet/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 

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If it were me I would use a small circular metal cutting tool and cut them out leaving a clean round hole , then put some thick tubes[sleeves] right through the frame and get long grade 8 bolts & nuts and go straight up out the top of the frame . better than factory !!

Jeff



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This is a case of the nuts rust bonding to the bolts. As the nuts are welded in they're there to stay.

I've been successful drilling a re-tapping using a good varriable speed drill and lots of sharp carbide and tungston bits. I start by grinding the area flat and using a center punch to mark the center of the bolt material so the drill doesn't wander. Then I drill with a 1/16" pilot hole, and progressively use a 1/8", 5/64", etc., untill I can slowly re-tap the new hole. Then I use LOTS and LOTS of anti-sieze compound on the bolt as it's inserted. Between that and the oil I throw in the frame each year, the new inserted bolts slide out slicker 'n snot.

 

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Skid bolts ... the perfect solution ...

The counter guy down at Ja-Lu Fasteners here in Farmington showed me the new, perfect solution...
They look similar to the fasteners in a CJ frame for mounting the sway bar bracket. Sort of a threaded tube on a washer looking thing ...
It uses the 'squeeze tube' principal where there is an expandable section between the threads in the tube and the base washer plate.
You just drill a tight hole, tap it in and get out your ratchet and socket ..
When you tighten the bolt the base of the tube buldges, locking its self in place. Simple!!/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

JAF
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep
 
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