Off Roading Forums banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm debating on which kit to look into. I'm thinking of running wrangler springs. Which kit have you guys used?? Which company do you recommend ?? Are they set with the shackles in the stock location, or do they make it with reverse in the front ?? From what I understand, in SPRO with stock wrang. springs it gives you 6.5" of lift ?? So what ever lift spring you get adds to that 6.5". Anyway let me know how yours are working. Thanks alot....
John
 

· Registered
Joined
·
873 Posts
I run the Trail Tough kit in front and the CSC rear. I can't be more pleased with the build quality from both companys.If you run a search for YJ springs you will find all the info you are looking for, a lot of people run YJs here and there are many posts in the archives to read.
 
G

·
I run the Trail Tough kit and absolutely love it. I started out with a shackle reversal and I just didn't care for the on road handling and the extreme pinion angle. There are four shackle reversal kits on ebay right now from AAPA, if that's your intent. Sorry guys...this isn't meant to start a flame war with the SR crowd. This is just my personal experience. Thanks and good luck!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,784 Posts
I wont run a shackle reversal on any of my jeeps or zuks again . The way the tire stuffs to the firewall limits the tire size you can run . And the on road manners really didnt improve dramatically enough to justify the loss of orr roadability . Like it was siad above not rying to start a flame war , I am just stating my experience with the S/R setups .
 

· Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the replys. I think Im with you guys regarding keep the shackles in there stock location. Now I like Trail Toughs set-up as well....but what about approach angles...were they affected much over stock ?? From what I understand front and rear wrangler springs are the same as far as length and positiong of pin, is that true ?? The rear has more leafs. I'm going to be running a 4.3 engine, that obviously heavier, what should I run as far as the leafs ??? Thanks for all the help.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
873 Posts
Front and rear springs are the same lenght and pin location.I ran stock 4 leaf springs when I just had the rear kit installed and the springs were way to soft. I didn't get any more lift then my stockers with a add-a-leaf. I ran the Rubicon and half way through the trail the rear was bouncing on the bumpstops and spring wrap was nasty(better shocks might have helped). I then installed the front kit and needed another set of YJs so I got some Pro Comp 2.5" lifted springs with the softest spring rate(4cyl,softtop) and threw them on....way to tall! so I disassembled the stockers and Pro Comps and mixed and matched springs until I had the ride height and stiffness I wanted. It took a couple trys but I have the rear packs with the top two Pro Comp leafs and two stock. The front is top two stock and one Pro Comp.
After another trip to the 'Con (with 33"s instead of 31" tires and a traction bar for the spring wrap problem) the flex was awsome but at the top of Cadillac hill I was on the bumpstops again(had a weeks worth of gear and a co-piolet onboard)but the front was perfect.
Sooooo I decided to get another set of 2.5" Pro Comp springs or something else and try again when I get done with the Toyota axle swap. I do run DT Prerunner shocks up front and Superlift softrides in the rear so shock performance might be a issue here and I'm going to swap them front to rear and see if that helps. One thing I highly recommend is a traction bar, the longer softer YJ springs warp up real easy even with my 4to1 TC and 3.73 axle ratio.
As for the approach angle compaired to stock, I don't know. I had a Calmini shackle reverse with stock springs SPOA and they hung down pretty far so the TT kit was way better. On the rear I do drag the longer shackles of the TT kit a little more then the Calmini shackles but I was also hitting the gas tank, bumper, and dragging the 33" spare hanging of the back. I think that was from taking harder lines and being more confident in my rig.
Thats where I'm at now, your 4.3 is alot heavier then my 1.3 you'll have to find what works best for you on the type of trails you run. We expect to see some wheelin' pics when your done too
 

· Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
In reply to:

I started out with a shackle reversal and I just didn't care for the on road handling and the extreme pinion angle.

[/ QUOTE ]

Was that a shackle reverse kit? If so who made it?

I'm looking into it myself (in the future) and I really don't have the money to make a mistake.

WB
 
G

·
Yes; it was a SR kit. I really don't care to name the manufacturer, but I can tell you it wasn't the Calmini.
Ride along with someone who has both kits. Now watch the front pinion on a SR kit when up against a large obstacle with the power to the wheels. I've seen the front wheels literally stop from drive angle bind at the front diff. I also experienced the front wheels biting into the rear of my front fenderwell and acting like a 33" brake. You can always tell the Zuki has a SR when they have a welded 1/4" plate in the rear of each front fenderwell. This stops them from getting cut tires and strengthens the area where the tire hits the fenderwell. Like I said...I've been there; done that! In defense of a SR kit; I've seen them work awesome on rigs that are all tubed and tons of wheel well. (Designed for a SR kit.) www.azrockcrawler.com is a perfect example.
As far as rear spring wrap with YJ springs; there is a simple solution. Cut the eyelets off the very top spring from a spare YJ spring pack. Now add that spring to your current 5 leaf pack in the rear. It will be your second leaf down. Credit for that tip goes to Brent at TT. No traction devices will be needed. I personally run 5 leaf YJ rears on all 4 corners. For added wheel travel up front; I cut the folded over ends of the spring clamps clean off. I now have so much travel that a 48" HiLift Jack won't get my front wheels off the ground.
Good luck on your decision!!!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
873 Posts
I agree with Fasterthangas on the SR. The ones I see work well are the guys who extened the front frame enough to move the axle 6"+ forward. My Calmini SR used to push the tires into the wheelwells with only 31"s and the on road ride was less then I desired, so I decided to try something else and I'm much happier on and off road.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you Zuk88 for all that detailed info !!! I really appreciate it. I'm saving all this info, so when I'm ready I can refer to all this!!! Thanks buddy !!!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you too as well for the valuable info!!! I will keep all this is mind when it comes time to build...You guys have a good one !!!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
873 Posts
Well these ramblings of mine are my experences and things I've heard or read. Others might disagree or prove me wrong which is cool, cuz thats how I learn. Have fun with your project, thats why we started in the first place right?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
OK, I can't comment on the TT kit but I do know first hand what the AAPA SR kit is like.

I used it with toy axles which complicates the install somewhat. If you are sticking with the zuk axles it will be easier.

As others have mentioned, the SR kit needs the front axle moved forward because under compression the axle wants to go back towards the firewall. The AAPA front kit is basically a weld-on frame extension with new spring hanger holes. Compared to the old shackle hanger location, the new spring holes are 7" forward. This moves your axle forward and lengthens your wheelbase as well. I'm running 35" tires so I re-drilled the axle perches to move them another 1.5" forward. This is enough to keep 35s off the firewall. If you have even larger tires just keep moving the axle forward as needed. Of course, you will need a new front driveshaft or lengthen your old one.

The SR setup definately requires more work to get it working properly. If you just want bolt on simplicity go for the TT kit.

You can find a lot of info on the SR setup on the pirate 4x4 forum for zuks. Tons of tech info from extreme wheelers. You have to deal with their 'attitude' which many are offended by but they have figured out what works best.

Good luck and enjoy the process,
paul

 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top