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I got mine from McMaster-Carr (732-329-3200, p/n 4154K22). This has an "unloader valve"; you'll need a check valve upstream of the switch. I don't know if you need the check valve anyway. If not the switch without the unloader valve is 4154K71, which is what I have, I pulled it off my shop air compressor which died..... I put my York in today but haven't plumbed it yet.

-Dana

When Columbus came to America, there were no taxes, no debts, and no pollution. The women did all the work while the men hunted or fished all day. Ever since then, a bunch of idiotic do-gooders have been trying to "improve" the place.

 

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Got mine plumbed today, mostly. The unloader valve does not appear to be necessary, as mine works fine without..... though I do have a check valve; it was on my old shop setup so I used it Now if I could just find a cheap tank.....

-Dana

P.S. Just curious, what do you have against Grainger? I've dealt with them many times and had no complaints.

The citizens of the United States are getting the government they deserve. The problem is that I'm also getting the government they deserve.
 

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A water switch is basically the same thing as an air pressure switch and it will work, but the set pressures are completely different. Typical water systems cut on at around 30psi and off at 60. If that's all the pressure you need, fine, but normally you want an air compressor to cut in at at least 80 and out at 100-125 (I use on at 100, off at 125, and usually set my regulator for 80). There's no way a water switch will adjust that high..... and believe me, I tried using heavier springs, etc. (since I had an extra water pump switch laying around), and finally gave up and bought the proper switch.

-Dana

Roses are red,
Violets are blue,
I'm wasting much too much time on the internet,
and probably, so are you.

 
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