Just a guess, but you probably go offroad with a pretty good load of junk in the back - tools, jerry cans, spare parts, jack, cooler, chains and so on. The weight distribution might not be so front-heavy as you think.

Personally, I would try to avoid lengthening the wheelbase because it increases the turning circle, but if I were going to lengthen, it would be at the back to get a longer driveshaft. A side benefit is better weight carrying capacity for all that junk

 

If you lengthen the front you will probably have to deal with steering modifications, which can be no fun. If you lengthen the back you will just have to deal with fuel lines, electrical, maybe brakes, and a drive shaft.

 

stretching the wheelbase is easier in the front, I just used waggie springs F and rear stretching about 4 inches. the front is no problem, the rear you have to move the gas tank(maybe) driveshaft, and cut the fenders, even for just 2 inches in the rear.

My steering circle didn't chance so much that I noticed.

 

So if I understand right, waggy springs are offset 2"s?

 

I dont know about the waggy springs. Im not using them. Just using the waggy axles. The reason for the stretch is that the springs Im using are a little longer. After a little thought, I figured that the front will end up being about 1 (if even that) inch further forward and the back will stretch around 2-3 inches. I did a whole lot more cutting and welding today and almost have the rear springs ready to hang. Its so nice to see progress on the jeep.

 

waggie front springs are 1.75"-2" offset and they provide lift on a SWB Jeep too.

 

Stretching the wheelbase is probably THE best you can do to your Jeep if you are planning to tackle the most extreme obstacles.
However, you must keep your center of gravity as low as possible, to really take advantage of the longer geometry. This can lead to break over angle problems, if your belly pan is not very smooth. Steering radius are definetly affected, but can easily be overcome and improved beyeond what any stock radius could ever hope for, with the use of cutting brakes. You must also learn how to drive with the lower C of G and brake over angle, but with practice the bennefits FAR OUTWEIGH, any disadvantages.
The fact of the matter is, without a longer wheelbase, some climbs are absolutely impossible, but there are many ways to very affectively manuever around obstacles,....as long as you arent stuck at the bottom of the hill.
Now to front or rear?
You have to evaluate your weight distribution, and experiment. Good ballance is very important, so that you dont leave the rig, either front or rear heavy. For me I went 9" rearward and 6" forward,..but I also had to move my engine (5.0 HO V8) forward 2 1/2" and downward 2" from original placement, before I really got to bennefit from the long wheel base. I also had to eliminate all body lift, and lower my suspension, but now it is as stable as any rig in the nation, and is a world class climber, from any angle.
It seems like a lot of work, but it just depends on why you are contemplating a wheelbase stretch, and what you are really trying to achieve. And yes, steering and fuel cell relocation are all part of the necessary fabrications, but they are not rocket science.

 

i lengthened my cj5 to a 100" wheelbase and i can tell you for wheeling purposes it is one of the best things i have done. i greatly increased my climbing ability and also increased stability. i cut my cj5 in half and added 15" behind the door. i also moved my front end forward 1.5". i like it but if i had it to do again i would not have lengthened the body the way that i did. adding body means more sheetmetal to mangle and with the way i wheel that is a problem. i run 42" swampers now and i am in the process of building a new rig. it'll have a fj40 front clip on it but the rest will be tube and the drivetrain that is in my jeep. i will be taking it out to a 105" wheelbase. 100" was great with 35's but since i have run 38.5's and now 42's and i think alittle more is needed. anyway once you lengthen it you will not regret it. here is a pic of mine:

 

H8 is again correct, here in TN the hardcore guys have been stretching thier jeeps for awhile. Right now I'm going to stretch my wheelbase to 108/110, it's actually very easy to do. I'm going 4/6 in the front- just to get the tires out of the fenders and the rest is going out the back. Ideally I want to have drive shafts that are about the same length that way I can only carry one spare for both. I plan on running tires no smaller then 38's. I'm only moving the spring mounts (and using chevy springs) and cutting as much needed sheet-metal out of the way. Alot of Jeep fanatics say we a ruining are jeeps because they are supposed to be small and nibble, screw that I want to see them of Guardrail or Helipcoter Pad in a stock CJ-5, I bet they'll just love that.

especially when the tires start lifting.

 

At what point though does the difference between a SWB and LWB begin? And why don't we just use full size frame with CJ bodies on them?

Later
Fritz

 

posted by extinctjeep
"At what point though does the difference between a SWB and LWB begin? "

who gives a rats arse?

as for the full size frame well i have seen it done but personally i would stick with the jeep frame. i think it would be esier to lengthen a frame than it would be to move the body over and have to wory about all of the body mount brackets, etc.

 

Whoa,

Don't jump on me because I pose a question (besides, I'm stretching my CJ5 to 104" right now, so I'm playing along as well).

Just putting the question on the table.

Fritz

 

i wan't jumping on you. i was just saying "who cares?" if someone wants to say my jeep isn't a swb because i lengthened it to 100" then so be it. i could care less.

 

Thats cool, I'm running on low octane after wrestling the 304 onto the engine stand.

Later,
Fritz

 

This may seem like a stupid question but how could you lengthen the front and still keep the mechanical steering? I am going to lengthen the rear with some early 90's 1/2 ton dodge rear springs, but havent figured out how to do the front without running an orbital box.

 

As to why, Jim's point is well taken in this type of terrain but all one has to do in the Farmington area is look at the used Jeep market.
Good clean, rustless CJ-5s flood the market but a good CJ-7 is hard to find.
The later model CJ-7's wider and longer stance vastly improve it ability to stay rubber down tackling extreme attitudes.
In fact, most CJ-7 and Wrangler wheelers would love to add around 10 more inches to their wheel bases.
And then, when it comes time to swap in beefier axles, many are opting to go with sometimes a considerably wider front width and a narrower rear to make up for some of the longer wheelbase's loss in turning radius.
Food for thought for all you stretchers out there ...

 

So a CJ-8 with a 103"wheelbase is ideal except for the overhang or would moving the axle back to eliminate the overhang be better?Kind of make it look like a CJ-6 with
CJ-7 body work.Reason I ask is I have a CJ-8 and the tub needs quite a bit of work so it doesn't look like it would take much to move the wheel openings back and fab new larger inner fenders.The biggest problem I see is where the frame arches up,how would you get around that with regards to the spring mounts?

 

bobbing the rear off a scrambler is a common practice to reduce the rear overhang. the scramblers come with a good wheelbase built in so bob it and then get it!