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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I'm picking up some new shackles for my '90 YJ and I'm trying to get a clear idea of what to look for. Right now, it's still got the oem units on there, but the passenger side front is pretty tweaked, seems it met a stump last weekend, and they didn't get along... Anyway, I like the tow shackles offered by Currie (and others?) 'cause it would be nice to be able to tow my rig without too much trouble, but Currie only offers them at stock length. I want to pick up 1/2" of lift, so I'll need ones that are 1" longer than stock. I've also been told that for the rear, boomerang style shackles are the best way to go. Can anyone tell me where I can get the following set up:

1. Front shackles with the tow-bar provision, 1" longer than stock, with grease fittings in the bolts, and a center brace (bolt in preffered?)

2. Rear 'boomerang' style shackles, 1" longer than stock, with grease fittings, and center brace (bolt in?)

3. Main Eye bolts with grease fittings

4. Good quality poly bushings for all of the above, preferrably in red

I have heard some people questioning the strength of the bolts tapped for the grease fittings, but for the increase in articulation and ride quality, I don't mind carrying a few extra bolts. I just want to make sure that I only have to buy these once. Any advice on where to buy and/or what to buy (or not to buy) would be appreciated. Thanks in advance all! Happy Jeepin'!


-Spyder
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info... I checked it out and they've got about the same thing that Currie has, but they're still stock length. I have found Daystar bolt and bushing sets with the grease fittings and fluted bushings, and the bushings are even red, but I can't seem to find 1" longer shackles unless I go to one with a welded brace and the ones like that that I have found are pretty cheezy looking. Here's a question... How hard would it be to fabricate shackle side plates? If I could do it, I could use the daystar bolt/bushing set and a piece of steel tubing with a grade 5 or 8 bolt for the brace. Than I could make them as long or short as I want. What kind a steel should be used for something like this? I don't have machine shop access, or a bunch of specialized tools, so I would be using a HD Jig saw, a small bench grinder, and some files. I think the Currie shackles are 3/16" thick zinc plated steel plate. Where would I go to find the appropriate materials? I would still rather buy them pre made, but if no one can tell me where to find them, I don't have a problem making them myself, if it's do-able. Thanks again.

-Spyder
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Places to shop

try 4wdstore.com for upper and lower bushings for the shackles. I've never seen shackles more than 1" over stock that have the center bolt. I don't even know what the benefit of this would be.

Trailquest.com, in OH has *at least* 1.5" over stock, greasable shackles, with grade 5 bolts, but they're center welded and not pretty, but bulletproof.

Also, I saw a greasable shackle conversion kit in the latest 4 wheel hardware catalog... for around 35...

JV500
94 YJ, I6, 3.5" Warn lift, 31.5 BFG A/T
more to come, now that it's paid off
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: DIY Shackles... Hey WC!!!!

What kind of steel did you use for you shackles? I have some 3" x 1/4" mild steel bar stock at home, but would that be strong enough? Do they need to be hardened, or heat treated or anything, or will that just make them brittle? Have you had any problems with them bending or distorting? The stuff I have is from the hardware store, kinda like common angle iron, but in a flat 1/4" thick bar. I'm not sure where else to go to buy better steel? Any ideas? Thanks, and happy Jeepin'!

-Spyder
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: DIY Shackles... Hey WC!!!!

1/4" or 3/8" will be fine. I've bent 3/16" and 1/4" shackles at 5 3/8" center to center on the holes. The 1/4" ones took a year of beating before finally bending, so you'll probably be ok with them.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Why not just pony up the bucks for Revolver shackles? By the time you are
done with bolts, bushings, shackles, etc. you are almost up to what the
Revolvers cost. And you would be getting massive articulation in the package.



Ron R. - 90 YJ w/OME
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not even close! You can build a set of shackles for $20-25 easily. The revolver shackles are $250 per set plus shipping. Not that I'm against them, I plan on buying my wife a set for Christmas...............
Now is she only had a Jeep!

John
95.5 YJ with "stuff"

 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yep, revolver's is way too much$$$.

Daystar greasable bolt/bushing set: $25
3" x 1\4" bar stock: $Free (left over from another project)
1-2 hr.s Labor: $Free (what else am I gonna do this weekend???)
Total = $25

Find me some revolvers for under $50 and I'm there, dude. I'd love a set!!! But if they're over $100, why bother... not that they're not great products, but I've got TONS of other mods in front of them that take priority. But thanks for the idea! So much for buying shackles that are just what I want, maybe I'm just to picky... Built, not bought, I guess.... Happy Jeepin'!

-Spyder
 

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Hey Spyder
I used 1/4" x 2" flat bar stock, went to a welding shop and had them cut and punch the holes( alot easier that drilling), took them about 5 mins and cost 20 bucks. If you want to make revolvers go back to my site and check out the rear suspension, Made my own (w/welding shop help)and they work just like the store bought ones. Cost about 50 bucks for the pair and I beat the hell out of them with no breakage. There is a drawing there to show how thier made.

Wayne in Hawaii
"PYRO II" '77CJ5

 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Measuring Shackles

Ok, I don't get it. I checked out my new shackles. From center bolt to center bolt they're over over 2" over stock. From what I've read, this means that I'll be getting over 1" of shackle lift, creating a 'float' feeling. Can this be dangerous? They're an H shackle. I'm thinking I (now) need to return them, and get something else. Any ideas here? I thogh I had this thing wired.

How do I avoid the float feeling if I do install these shackles?

(FYI: They're not installed yet..)

JV500
94 YJ, I6, 3.5" Warn lift, 31.5 BFG A/T
more to come, now that it's paid off
 

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Re: Measuring Shackles

The longer the shackle, the more the caster angle is thrown off. This will create poor handling, put extra stress on the shackle hangers and frame, sometimes cause driveshaft vibration and if you don't have a track bar lateral movement of the frontend in turns and during articulation. Must people seem to think only about 3/8" over stock is the most for a shackle lift. IMHO, the bolt type are better then the welded H type shackles, seems to allow the spring to move more freely.

Wayne in Hawaii
"PYRO II" '77CJ5
 

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Plenty of off topic replies!!!!

For your rear shackles...Leon rosser carries a hinged shackle with sizes ranging from no lift to 1.25". They are "high-tolerance" type giving the spring opposing compression some rotation. You could run these on the front and use a "dune buggy" type tow bar with these shackles. If you are convinced that you need to build your own shackles, you need to "truss" them (make an H shape of the shackle) if you plan to build a lift in the shackle. The additional stress created on the shackle hanger is extreme with longer shackles and bolts will shear in the hanger with time. With two piece shackles you run the risk of losing the spring if that happens causing rear steer from hell that you cannot compensate for at speed.

Don't go cheap here!! If you aren't an experienced welder working with structural steel don't do it. Buy some shackles and don't worry about it. Leon Rosser"s # is 800-633-4724 and ask for the hypershackle in the 6" closed position.

IMHO
Hank

 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I just want to know the "benefit" of the boomerang rear shackles. can anyone explain, please? thanks

 

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???, If you'd follow the thread, there is nothing off topic in it.One of the points of this BBS is to anwser other jeepers questions, is'nt it?
(BTW, I am a certified welder with 20 years experience.)
The type of shackle we are talking about has a bolt w/sleeve that connect the two shackle plates. This bolt is tightened for street use and losened for offroad. So most of the time it works as a weld cross bar but can be lossened to allow greater articulation.

Wayne in Hawaii
"PYRO II" '77CJ5

 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Dano: The boomerang shackle is shaped to go around the frame rather than have the center bar of the "H" hit the rear of the frame when the springs flatten backward. This is a common problem with the "H" type shackle, and the reason that I wouldn't go back to another set of them again.

 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Who else has boomerang shackles? (Mepco has them for 64 a pair)...
Leon Rosser has revolvers for 160 a pair... too much...

What would the benefit of placing boomerangs on the front? Something about anti-kick back? Has anyone ever tried this?

Thanks in advance!!!




Jon
94 YJ, I6, 3.5" Warn lift, 31.5 BFG A/T
more to come, now that it's paid off!
 
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