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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just curious if any of you use any of the new synthetics or if you all go natural???...This question was prompted by Mobil One Synthetic comercials on tv during Horsepower TV and Trucks...

Josh Lavalleur
'70 CJ5 4.6L V6
D27 & D44 axles
T-14 3-speed, D18 XC, Warn OD
 
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Mobil 1 or Amzoil. I changed to synthetic in the engine, Mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid, and Amzoil or Mobil 1 (I forgot which one) in the transfer case, and Amzoil synthetic gear lube in the differentials of my '97 Tahoe. Picked up 2.5 mpg on the highway. I wouldn't change on an old engine with worn gaskets because past history has a leakier engine with synthetic. The stuff is expensive. I use natural in my older high mileage vehicles. Good luck.

 
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I've been using Valvoline oil for as long as I remember. When I did the TeraLow conversion in my CJ7, I put Mobil 1 gear oil in, figured another 14 bucks towards a $700 investment was worthwhile.

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)
 

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In my Suburban's 454 I use Mobil 1 15W50 synthetic. Seems to have picked up a HP or two... Haven't tried any synthetic ATF or gear lube, but only because I haven't seen any around locally. I'll probably switch as soon as I can find some locally... I've heard too many good things about synthetic gear lube and ATF to not use it... And after seeing how nice synthetic is in the engine, it's my logical next step.. But I'll shut up now...

Tim
"The_Sandman_454"

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif '79 Suburban 4x4 454, 6" lift, 35x12.5s & '85 GMC S15 4x4
 
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Castrol in both my Jeeps but once the TJ hits 12,000 miles Im switching it to Amsoil.

LarryM
85 CJ7, 350TBI ,T19 4spd
'00 TJ Sport, NV3550 5spd, D44, Teraflex system
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif It's valvolene for my ZJ from zero to 90,000 miles. Valvolene is all we ever ran in racing....I trust the stuff. By the way....I NEVER saw an engine cough up filings in the pan like my ZJ 4.0 did. It was so alarming that I saved an oil sample from each oil change till it was out of warranty. I don't know if it was not washed good enough, or what, but it was really bad. Here it is now with 90K on it and never uses a drop between changes or leaks either one./wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif

CJDave
 
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Natural for me. I am only 19, and like said before, the syn stuff is just too pricey. I figure if I change the oil more regularly than 3000, maybe that will help a little more. I have heard so many times, from the four ASE mechanics in my family, that keeping the fluid nice and clean is most important. No matter what kind of oil you use, your motor has so many moving parts, it starts eating itself from day one. Keep the motor clean inside, and it should last.
Russ

 
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Like the last post stated, keeping the oil clean is the most important thing. As for synthetic, I run it exclusively in my cars and it is well worth every penny to go with it. However, in my jeep the engine is already getting tired and starting to burn a little oil. Synthetic will make this worse, it is a little thinner than natural and flows easier, so it will flow around the rings a little more. So if the engine is in good shape you cannot go wrong switching to synthetic, but if it is tired at all, use natural, change it often and when you rebuild or get a new one, go to synthetic AFTER the break in period.

As for gear oil or ATF, go for synthetic. It will protect better and the money is not as big a deal because you can change it less often than motor oil.

 

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Mobil 1 .....almost exculsively since it came out. Great cold start flow .....never a "cold stall" with the stuff. I change it every 6month/6000miles .........which is about what you'd spend as a 3mon/3000mile oiler. The ATF is great stuff too. My 88 Corsica had a delay on engagement when you'd put it in gear and the power steering's pressure relief would scream in 20 degree weather ......had them both changed over (I had a hard time finding the stuff and had to have a Mobil retailer order it in) ........you could REALLY feel the difference in the trans......and the ps never screamed again from the cold. I'll never use any other product in a non-diesel motor. I could go on ......but....you get the idea.

GeeAea

 

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Well, I bought a 305 TPI out of a Firebird that belonged to a stripper, licence plate read "TA4SHOW". I
only gave $700 for it and I don't know if it had ever had the oil changed. I figured the engine would last
maybe a year, so I would be replacinng it and starting the new one out on synthetic. I filled it with
Kendall and changed it at 1000 miles the first three times, now I change at 3000. The engine has been
running for 4 1/2 years since the transplant to the Jeep now so maybe I'll just stick with the Kendall.


 
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Valvoline 20W50 RACING!!!! Part #211 Not Valvoline 20W50. I've used this since my first hot rod new car in '69 when I discovered that a SBC would turn everything else to foam at the drag strip. I've used it exclusively in lawn mowers, air compressors, cars, trucks, boats, all auto toys and would use only one other that I consider to be it's equal: Castro GTX. The post about the 3000 miles is right one.
Here is a mantra for internal combustion engine longevity. Say it over and over to yourself every time you: start the car/Jeep/whatever, stop the ...whatever, make a payment, buy gas, buy new goodies, install new goodies etc., etc. ---- "Fluids and filters." "Fluids and filters." "Fluids and filters." over and over and over and over and........
sln

 

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AMEN TO THAT MANTRA!!!!

14 years, 123k miles on a so called "unreliable" Chevy 2.8L V-6...............
NO PROBLEMS
 
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Well i personaly used to use Havoline motor oil in my 88 4.2, and it always seemed to work great, it was quiet, never burned, it worked great, but now i noticed with the colder weather it seem the engine has a harder time starting with it, so i changed to Normal Mobil 1 and it mad a big differnce in starting so i think i'm gonna stick with the mobil 1
just my thoughts


(\/)ikey 1988 Wrangler Laredo 4.2L w/5spd Manual
1995 Wrangler 2.5L w/ 5spd Manual
 
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don't flame me, but here goes, My father has had four Toyotas (two FJ40's and two pickups 1 20R and 1 22R and he NEVER changed the oil ever in any of them and drove 'em all to at least 100,000 miles. He kept 'em full with the cheapest stuff he could find but never changed the oil. He never had a lick of trouble related to the engine , or anything else, with any of them. I personally change my oil at 3k miles 'cause It's not that expensive but I swear it's true. Is it possible that changing oil is a profit minded tradition started by the oil companies or are Toyotas tolerant of sludge?

P.S. Except Quaker State he would never use Quaker State no matter how cheap it was. It is rumored that the high ash content in Pennsalvania crude promotes sludge formation and from what I've seen it's true. Never run that crap.

 
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i know a few people who "let em leak and just change the filter once in a while". not sure how they still run or how they can afford adding a quart every 300 miles. makes you wonder sometimes.

dan

/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.giflet it snow/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 

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I honestly have run everything from All natural to sythetic blend, 10w-30, 10w40, 15w-40, 20w-50 in my Jeeps 4.2L. Right now I bought 6 gallons of Some shell 15w40. I change it everytime I get water in the oil, blow a seal and have it all leak out, puncture the oil-pan and have it all leak out, or 3000 miles, whichever comes first :eek:) BTW I did the diesel flush and it worked great and I'm running 5quarts 15w40 and 1qt ATF. New Fram off-road filter. Wednesday or thurs will see some new gear lube, extending the vent hoses up the rollbar and using fuel-filters to top them all off. Also a new front main seal...:p and a York AC compressor waiting for brakets to be made :) [how do you get the smileys INSIDE the message?]
 
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