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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think that it's obvious that when you do something to your Jeep that stainlee steel replacement bolts are a good idea. ( I may be wrong on this, correct me if you disagree ).

But what type of head it the best to use? This whole stipped torx head thing has me thinking... what's gonna break next and how much harder is it going to be if the bolt strips.

I'd much rather build my Jeep because I want to not because I have to.

88YJ I4 Stock... so far
Cosmetic Upgrade:SS Hinge set with CJ Mirorrs
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I bought new torx bolts for my windshield hinges and they rusted in two days. I tried some grade 5 and 8 bolts from Pep Boys and the black ones rust also.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Stainless bolts no doubt look good but you have to be careful cause when you tighten SS bolts they will gould the threads and are almost impossible to remove without cutting them off. Even though SS is very hard to cut, SS is really considered a soft metal. We use SS a lot at work and we almost always tighten things up with regular bolts, and then we will take them out one at a time and put ss bolts in knowing that they will not pull up tight without messing up the treads. If you insist on using ss bolts, get as good a quality bolt as you can find and use standard nuts on them. Maybe use an allen head bolt for looks. Steve

Mopar360yj
87yj+20,74CHR.030360,SOA,35BFGATs,46RH,241DHD,
D60-44-4.10
 

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Re: Bolts and bolting?

::<: First of all, I'm telling you right now that you HAVE to build your Jeep. Now that the issue is settled, we can discuss bolts. Stainless bolts sometimes "gald" when you try to back 'em off because the threads are saw-toothed. If you look with a magnifier, you can see it sometimes. The saw-teeth are caused by high speed machining. Everybody knows how hard it is to single-tool a thread in stainless; it's not that easy, and in a production machine speed and low cost are paramount so..... If corrosion is a problem, use stainless, but don't paint it. Stainless has to be free to "discharge", if not, it begins to suffer from electrolysis. Grade Five or Grade Eight bolts with a good electro plating are a good way to go. Grade Five is good for stretch and medium shear; Grade Eight is good for high shear. The higher the carbon content, the better the bolt, but the quicker that surface rust can form. It will not usually go deep, but it still makes them hard to remove. Always use thread dope to assure removal later, unless it is a critical joint where you cannot risk an unwind. Dave

CJDave
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Has anyone seen the new 4WD catalog. They sell a kit "Stainless Steel Fastener Package" which include bolts, screws, washers and nuts for specific vehicles. Each grouping of fasteners is individually bagged and labeled.
Body mount bolts, seat mounting bolts, fender mounting bolts, etc.

1981-86 CJ7 w/ Softop 620 pieces - $ 144.95

What do you guys/gals think, is it worth it?

TIA

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It seems high at first; then when you think about how much chasing around you would do to amass that collection. It may be OK from that standpoint.

CJDave
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's What I did .... I got the rest of my order yesterday. Now the looks will be better but I still have to fix the darn engine prob. I say go for it!

88YJ I4 Stock... so far
Cosmetic Upgrade:SS Hinge set with CJ Mirorrs
 

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Im using a lot of stainless bolts on my project, but the only places I am going to use the stock Button Head torx style are on my dash and the ones for my rocker and corner panels. This is a smooth and funcional solution (safety in the cockpit and easy wipe downs in both areas). They ARE soft and can only be removed and removed once or twice before the inside hex starts to mush out.
There is no way I am going to use button heads for my seat brackets or any other place needing a lot of torque.
The stainless bolts I liked the best have been the grade 8's with the small 6 point heads like the ones Totally Stainless sold me for my I-6 manifold.
I used several grade 8 stainless bolts and lock washers on my engine - brackets and such - but only standard hex head and only with silicone anti-seize. This silvery stuff was recommended by my fastener store and is made for OX sensors and exhaust bolts, etc. Using a Met-Wrench stlye of sockets and wrenches aren't a bad idea either since these don't round off the hex head points like standard tool do.

JAF
 
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