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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have built my cj7 for fairly tuff going,twin dana 44's detroits 4.56's 360 dana 300 35" tires etc,i've now come to the driveshaft part,what are you guys running,i've called the "big names" in driveshafts (six states/tom woods/southbay)and they generally all tell me that the little stock 1 1/4"x .120 wall is a strong driveshaft and if i upgrade the wall thickness to .188 then you have a "very" strong driveshaft,is this true,what have your expieriences been with 33"/35"tires?tia

jsjps
 

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i have been running a 360 or built 304 for about 8 years and i haven't run smaller than 35's, i have worn out a couple front driveshafts(!) but i have never broken one...for their size, the .188 is really amazing. i actually wore the slip joint completely out in mine/wwwthreads_images/icons/blush.gif

~~Elusive~~
it's sort of still a cj thingy....
 

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stock front shaft for me too

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Big Ed
'88 YJ, 4" susp,3" body,33's,283 Chevy V8,TH350,4.11's,D30,D35c
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I twisted the stock front drive shaft in two, and put a twist in the rear on the same weekend. Upgraded both to a thicker tube. No problems sense. Only cost $75 per drive shaft for the upgraded tube.

'77 CJ7 AMC360/T400/Q-trac/D30/D44
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I used to run a 375HP 360 with 38's & 38.5's and had custom shafts made locally for a very reasonable price. Needed new shafts anyway due to the lift, so it made sense to go a bit heavier. Never had any problems, so it was cheap insurance IMO. Saw some friends twist up the stockers a few times.

TEX

/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif Got Mud?
G.U.M.B.O. Mud Racing
 

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I went to a junkyard and for $50 brought home two perfect driveshafts from a V8 Wagoneer. I had them cut down and rebalanced, with new joints at both ends. The whole package, including shafts, cost $200, and I'm sure they are plenty strong. They're MUCH larger than any CJ shaft, they are heavy.

JEEPN
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
GM151/SM465/NP205 twinstick/7"Lift/33"TSL's/IHC D44's 4.10's Lock'd
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I run a set of shafts from Tom Woods. H.D., long slide and the whole ball of wax. I love them and they were pretty reasonably priced. Tom's a great guy. I run a hefty 304 with 35" tires. My other problem is I run an auto tranny so the front driveshaft has to be the very narrow tube type. Tom's shaft has no problems with it.

Al
My web page
 

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I'm not sure of the of the OD of the tube. I'm getting the Scrambler up here Saturday (FINALLY!), so I can finish the body and mounts. I'll take the measurement then. I know they're large, like a lot bigger than any CJ ones. I also chose them because they have an extra long slip joint, which was a lot stronger (size and splines) than many I had seen. They use the same U-joint as the Scout II D44's, but I had to have a special cross joint (one cross was 2 sizes larger than the other) installed on the rear shaft due to the yoke size on the NP205 transfer, it was about an extra $10 (Spicer, only way to go) for the joint.

JEEPN
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
GM151/SM465/NP205 twinstick/7"Lift/33"TSL's/IHC D44's 4.10's Lock'd
 
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