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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, i am looking to put together a jeep for my wife and have no idea what to start looking for. I am a long time blazer owner and have a idea of how i want to attack this but what are things to look for stay away from? What are the CJ,YJ,TJ designations for? I only want to run a true 35" tire with as much flex as possible. Thanks for the help prolly going to be asking a bunch of stupid questions soon!
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
cj/tj= round bug-eyed jeeps
yj= square sophisticated jeep

start SQUARE and you will have a good foundation to build upon.

one warning though- your wife's gonna kick your blazer A$$ on the trail!
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OH geez, not this argument again! An 80s CJ is probably the best vehicle to start with if you don't plan on making a lot of heavy mods. CJ rear is a Model 20, just as big as a 9 inch and all you gotta do is swap out the axles. T-case, GEAR driven Dana 300, one of the strongest stock t-cases ever made. 258 is a strong motor, you can also find an earlier 80s with a 304 V8. Front Dana 30 is not the strongest, but it does have manual hubs, unlike the YJs or TJs, and axles with 297x u-joints are only a couple hundred bucks. But, if you plan on building and building, then it really doesn't matter what you start with.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
one warning though- your wife's gonna kick your blazer A$$ on the trail!

YEA RIGHT

since it will prolly have a all chevy drive train (why learn something else?) it should do ok? Just some more info i was thinking about. What is the deal with the fiberglass bodys? I would like something smog exempt. I can see putting dana 44s on it since the tires will be so small. give me some info. thanks
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
how does the dana 300 compare with np 205? are there alot of clearence issues with trying to full size parts in it? what companys have doublers for jeeps?
 

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The dana 300 is a little weaker than the 205 but plenty strong for a jeep. It is smaller, making it easier to fit between the frame rails and has a 2.61:1 low range which is better than the 1.96:1 in the 205. There are also 4:1 gear sets and larger output shafts available which make it more desirable than the 205. It can also be twin sticked like the 205.
 

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Where'd the 205 come into play? I wasn't aware that SWB Jeeps came with that. Please, edjumacate me. As for which Jeep to get, I'm with sas87yj. Might as well straight square, otherwise you'll just end up putting money into a YJ front clip for your bug-eyed CJ.
 

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He said he's used to full-size chevys and asked how the dana 300 in CJ's compares to the 205 used in full-size chevy's. It seems like he is very familiar with 205s but not with dana 300s.
 

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swaping in a YJ front clip, ha that is a new one.


I think I agree if it is staying close to stock go with a 80s CJ, but if you want a smog exempt then look at a flatty or an old CJ 5.

TJs are way cool, but it sounds like you want more of a project type jeep. No matter what way you go atleast you are realizing Jeep is the right way to go.

Tony
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
frount clips really dont mean alot to me. All they do is hold the rad, and lights you know? i guess my question should of been a little more detail, what i want to know is are the frames any different? is there anything out to stay away from because it is a pos or just to weak?? what has alot of after market parts avialable to put big componets in it? thanks for the help.
 

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If i were you i would do what i plan on doing. YJ frame, YJ tub, CJ nose so you have a classic look and you can find an early CJ7 title and get away with alot of smog $hit. Sounds like you are going to go Chevy drivetrain so motor options dont matter. Throw a 9in or a 60 in the back, then a 44 in the front and you are set.


YJ frames are wider and much stronger.
YJ tubs are rusty, YET.
CJ nose just looks alot better then some square headlights and if you live in a state like Jersey your headlights better match what they are supposed to be for inspection.
 
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