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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to do a spring over on my 74 cj5. I have springs off of a 83 scrambler so I know I will need to weld on new hangers and spring perches. I just dont know all of the details envolved such as where to put shock mounts, drive shaft angles ect. Some have said it is extremely simple and others say it is a pain in the @$$.

 

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well this is a pretty in depth answer you are looking for.. i will hit the high lights for you.. (dont want to type all that) first its a pain to do yourself.. for 1)you have to grind off the knuckles.. and reweld them on... for your caster angle, this took us.. mm... about a case of beer and 2 days (has this persuaded you yet?) 2) take a good look at your steering.. most times the springs will run right thru the tie rod..when its on top of the axle.. so you have to figure out what to do with that.. i made some homemade brackets.. this took about 6 different brackets.. and 12 more beers..and raised it up over the springs. 3) might have to make new shock towers.. and mounting points on the axle... the axle is the easy one.. just weld on a stud. but the shock towers get a little tricky.. and you have to wait till you are done to do this.. to see how much you flex.. so you need to get shocks.. by there length.. and travel.. not make for vehicle. 5) you will need new brake lines.. or lower your existing ones... maybe i should have gotten a keg.. lol 6) drive line angles.. well point the yoke at the transfer case.. they should go straight at it.. and you do that with the grinding off the spring perches.. and welding them back on the top. 7)and since you are usuing those springs... i take it they are longer.. you should do a shackle reversal.... extend the front out acouple of inches.. if they are longer.. and that is the... the rest of the story.. or basics.. and it really did work great.. despite the beer.. which.. just like fish stories maybe was alittle far fetched...
jeepgod

survival is instinct, but living takes guts
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is possibly the best description of it Ive heard ;) Dont forget you'll likely need new driveshafts both front and rear (especially if you do a shackle reversal). You'll more than likely need to fab up an A arm or something to kill the spring wrap. All in all its totally worth it when you're done. But it is a lot of work, especially if you dont have several extra hands.



 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, this sounds like this may be right up my alley...at least the beer drinking aspect of it. One more question, what do you mean by grinding off the knuckles, and what are caster angles. As you can tell this is going to by my first rodeo.

 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've read other articles on this. What is "spring wrap" and "wheel hop"? What would happen if you just reversed the u-bolt so the spring was on top of the axel? I know this sound like a stupid question, but... I don't know a down side.
Thanks, Jeff

'83 CJ7 258 i6 31x10.5 3in. lift? /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 

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I agree with everything but the driveline angle. If you point the pinion the tcase yoke you'll need to run a cv driveline. Acording to what I could find out before I did mine the pinion and tcase should be at the same angle. No more than 4degrees difference. Otherwise you could cause vibration and premature ujoint failure. For streering what you do is fab a new "Z" link. It should come out of the pitman arm at the same angle as stock then "Z" down till it is parallel with the axle and connects to the knuckle. That will help prevent bump steer and give plenty of clearence for the springs.Or you could go with the new knuckles that move the tie rod above the springs or a 4" drop pitman arm. If you make sure the purches you weld on top are parallel with the original ones you shouldn't need to rotate the knuckles. Unless your doing a shackle reversal at the same time. Spring wrap and wheel hop are caused from the axle putting force on the spring from a direction it was not designed for(spring over). This will cause premature spring failure if you don't use some kind of tracksion device. There's some good ones on the market that alow for full articulation.

C-Ya.....................kh
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Actually spring wrap occurs naturally on all leaf sprung vehicles. Sprung under setups puts the axle closest to the long leaf thus cancelling out most of the wrap. Basically its caused by torque transferrence through the differential. When you step on the gas the pinion wants to climb as the differential is trying to move the wheels forwards. When a vehicles sprung over on soft springs (and soft springs work best for lots of things with a spring over) there is nothing to counteract this force so the pinion climbs. Once the spring reaches a point the force will become too much for it to absorb and the spring will unload (spring back to normal), this produces the hop. This is also the moment when ujoints tend to get munched, driveshafts tend to grenade (if theres enough wrap) etc. It'll also eventually bend your springs into a perminent S shape. So you'll definatley want a bar to eliminate the wrap. The best setup Ive come up with is an A arm that attaches using heims to the top and bottom of the tub next to the diff then connects (using another heim) to a shackle that bolts to a mount welded to the crossmember. This stops the pinion from rotating up, but allows free movement in any other direction. Cost me about $50 to setup, but I can hammer on the gas and still dont have any wrap issues so Im satisfied. Ive never seen the K steering setup so cannot comment, but it's handy to get your steering linkage out of the way since you have to move it anyway (best arguement for knuckle over steering arms)


 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not to insult your intelligence Darrell, but by questioning what is meant by grinding off the knuckles and what is caster angle, you had better do some more homework. As you move your springs to the top of the axle, you probably will need to change the angle of the pinion in relation to the transfer case. As you do this, the angle of the knuckles in relation to where the spindle attaches changes. This angle is caster. It's what allows you to let go of the steering wheel and have it return to center (hopefully). If it gets out of whack you will be wandering all over the road and that wandering sensation will be magnified with larger tires. Spring-over is not something that you take on with a box of tools and a case or two of beer. It needs to be well thought out and you need a good deal of suspension know-how to make it work properly. Pay attention to this site and do a search on spring-over. It has been discussed many times and you will pick up a great deal of knowledge on what all is involved. Once you feel knowledgeable enough to take it on, get that case or two of beer and dive in!

 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanx Snowtow, you are exactly right. I thought it would be pretty easy just at first look. After going home just now and taking what I have heard so far, I can see it is going to take a while. I have a while anyway due to trying to locate some new axles. If im going to do this I might as well do it up right. THANX FOR THE INFORMATION FROM EVERYONE.

 
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