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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK... Got the welder, got the buddy to teach me, but he's one of those guys who shows you once, then starts supervising... Anybody seen any good webpages that explain what, how? I laid a couple beads on some scrap this evening, and they held up to the sledge hammer test, and I realise that it takes alot of practice in the actual art... But sometimes I need to be a why learner, instead of a how learner... (does this make sense or should I've left that b**r in the fridge?) Thanks again to all those who helped with the Which question.
George

Florida Mud CJ-5
'77 RB304, t-150 D20 4" 35" swampers
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The best advice I can offer is threefold.
1. Go to your local library and read every book on welding they have.
2. Go to your local book store and buy a book or two on the specific welding process that you will be doing.
3. Go to your community college and take a welding course or two.

Evolution of tools: stone, hammer, wrench, socket, impact, really big hammer, blue wrench.
 

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you can read all you want.. I did, it helped but not as much as the following

I have learned ( and im still learning) from those guys who weld all the time, and have been for years

I work with several really good welders, you can find some good welders near you
just watch, and listen, and try...



OzarkJeep
77 CJ5, in a bunch of sanded and primered pieces
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Unfortunately I can't go to the comunity college here, cuz I go to one of the universities here... :p and they won't let you take classes at the CC if you go to the university cuz it "Takes business away from the university" - well, my university doesn't offer welding classes... I can learn to rivet, screw, hammer, paint, bolt, and bend. Engineer, maintain and use. But no welding.... oh well....

Unfortunately my welding contact has grown increasingly hard to find, and nobody has that 'southern' attitude anymore... its all liability, and profit
'QUIT BOTHERING THE HELP!!!' that's the favorite line of the local custom jeep shop owner...
Well, I guess I'd better figure out where the library is in this town...
thnx


Florida Mud CJ-5
'77 RB304, t-150 D20 4" 35" swampers
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif If your new welder is a wire feed, I have this to tell you........movement......./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Yep...that's it/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif With stick electrode you can get away with murder if you turn up the heat and go like hell. With wire, you have to "sew" the pieces together or you won't get squat for real deep down penetration. You have such a small "electrode" with the wire that if you don't move, you will get a puny bead over on one side and no real CROSS-SECTION. THAT'S WHAT MATTERS......CROSS-SECTION AND PENETRATION, not how it looks all purty on the surface!!!!!! AND ANOTHER THING!!! Vee those seams out or you won't get a good weld. No vee.....no penetration...!!! As soon as you can, do some overhead work under the Jeep with a tee shirt on. That's what everybody does....really we do....no foolin'..../wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gifwe LIKE getting huge drops of molten metal on our chest hairs. I love the smell of burning hair in the morning....smells like....welding/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
Quadra-Trac modified by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif transfer case team.
 

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here is a story youll appreciate Dave,

I called maintenance 2 times today, my Miller synchrowave 300 was shocking the piss out of my left hand thumb, the wire feed hand..they couldnt find any thing wrong with the machine

I washed my hands, I cleaned the ground clamp, I put several layers of thick rubber tape on my water table where my hand was resting,

it STILL shocked my THUMB every now and then..
turns out
i had a metal sliver the size of an infantile fleas genital stuck in my thumb, it took an eyepiece, bright light, razor knife, and 30 minutes to digit out..
Ill bet those guys are still laughing at me, they got a kick every time it flashed and I said bad things...


OzarkJeep
77 CJ5, in a bunch of sanded and primered pieces
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry but that is funny and I don't blame those guys for laughing. Anyway..I kinda tried to teach myself to stick weld and a really dirty guy at the metal scrap yard gave me a tip that helped tremendously. He said "Imageen too trails of speeit cross from chother. Start at thee top of one and drag em together back n forth with yer finger". I swear if you can translate that to yourself it may help you. I tried for 3 weeks to get a decent bead and I remembered what that freak said and I tried it and that exact weld was the best I ever laid down. Of course I still can't weld for sh** and I never had another one look good but...
Good Luck,
Aaron

 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif I once had a project going where we had 54" steel pentstocks to weld up. Despite my maneuvering to eliminate seams, we still ended up with about seven 54" seams to weld....triple pass of course....and we were falling behind schedule. At the end of one day I asked one of the extra welding contractors we had hired to find me a rod-burner to go with my 300 Lincoln that was not being used. The next day he brought a guy who looked like he slept under a refridgerator carton in some alley. I was skeptical, but desperate. He disappeard into the bell-hole at 7 AM.....came up at ten for coffee....noon for lunch...and the rest of the time all I saw was the smoke curling up out of the hole and the 300 sitting there at full RPM. Of course the welds were beautiful, just like the ones he made when he was on the ALASKA PIPELINE./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

CJDave
Quadra-Trac modified by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif transfer case team.
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Matt....my welder moonguys/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gifgot a big laugh/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gifout of that story. They are now trying to shock/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gifone another here in the shop./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

CJDave
Quadra-Trac modified by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif transfer case team.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've never used a stick, my dad purchased a small wire feed mig a couple of years ago. It is hard to get a good bead with the wire. By good I mean pretty with good penetration. I just made some new seat brackets for my 87 to adapt 91 Mitsubishi seats into it. I used 1"x.065" galvinized tube. I've never welded on something so hard to get a good bead on. I've been able to make the best beads on angled steel, .125" thick, from home depot.

To run a pretty beed use a constant motion, back and forth from one piece to the next. When I'm finished with a pretty bead it looks like a good caulk line with a slighy shiwhy form on top. Now it also depends on what power setting you are using and the speed of the wire/stick, the back and forth motion and feed into the material that you are welding. If the power isn't high enough then you won't get good penetration; if the power is too high then it will burn through the material. If the feed is too slow you will get gaps in your arc. If the feed is too fast then you will get gaps in the ard and wit will feel like you are being pushed away from the material that you are welding. If your shishy, back and forth motion is too fast you will get gaps in you arc and not get good penetration. If you move too slow then your bead will look like it is bulging, or you might burn through the material. If you burn through the material, the arc was penetrating too well. Turn the power down and try again. It really gets complicated when you weld to different metals together or two differing thickenesses of the same metal.

Now, I've been welding a very short time in comparison to some of the others on this board, but I have identified something that will tell me if I am getting a good arc. The sound of the arc will tell you if you are getting good weld, (good penetration, pretty weld). Practice some and play with the different settings on your particular welder. If you lay a pretty bead you can always cut it apart to see a cross section of the weld. This will allow you te see how good your weld is. Once you lay a couple of good beads, you will be able to pick out the sound that material makes when you are getting a good bead. It is like cooking almost, it just takes practice, you might burn yourself also. I tend to hold the gun like a cue stick. I hold it in my left hand and manuver the tip with my right hand. It helps me keep the tip of the gun steady so that I can keep a continuous arc. I have burned a hole in my dad's welding gloves practicing this way, but I eventually learned to keep my left hand far enough away from the arc to keep the glove from getting that hot.

Good Luck,

Robert87yj/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif
engine rebuild w/4.0 head done, now for the MPI
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The sound made is a pretty good indicator for me as well. If it sounds like eggs frying, I know that the settings are pretty much on target.

 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks everybody... That's alot more than anybody's told me so far, and sounds like a great place to start. I'd grabbed the only book in the libary on welding, and will read it tonight. I talked to my welding buddy while I was picking up a few things for the project, and he gave me a few pointers. I guess from here on out its practice practice practice...


Florida Mud CJ-5
'77 RB304, t-150 D20 4" 35" swampers
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif VERY GOOD guys....very good. The sound IS the thing.....and it sounds JUST like bacon frying. There is a little thing called a "Cool Hand" that you can slip over the glove to keep the heat away from your left hand. That post was a very informative and "right on" post....very good for the new welders on this board....very well written./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

CJDave
Quadra-Trac modified by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif transfer case team.
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif You'll be fine with a little practice. Just remember if you are welding for strength, bear down and get that wire IN THERE....plenty of heat and lotsa motion./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
Quadra-Trac modified by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif transfer case team.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I agree with snowtow on the type of sound. Eggs frying is a pretty good description. See if you can get some scraps of metal from your welding buddy. If he's anything like me, he'll have saved them b/c they might come in handy some day. The sound changes if you are going to burn through the material. It sounds like putting the lid on the frying eggs, kind of a hollow sound, if you hear that, you probably have already burned through.

have fun, I know I do, I always get burned, wait, oh well/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif

Robert87yj/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif
engine rebuild w/4.0 head done, now for the MPI
 
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