Off Roading Forums banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys I have a problem.
Last year when I went to the mall I went to start my Jeep and the starter kept going it would not shut off by the time I jumped out to disconnect the battery the Jeep had died totally and would not even attempt to turn over at all. Since then I tried replaceing the key lock cylinder,ignition switch, distribitor cap, ignition coil, starter solenoid, spark plugs and wires and ignition module. I had a friend come over the other day to check for spark and he said there was spark but really weak kinda of yellow-orange colour. I noticed also that the condesor(capicitor) was not connected, the wire was rotted off. Could this cause the weak spark?? If not, any suggetions to look for? When the starter failed to disengage when I tried to turn the key off what could it have damaged? Any info would be appreciated this is driving me nuts. I haven't offroaded in over a year I need to get this back on the road or should I say offroad lol.

Thanks
Wayne...
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I replaced the starter solenoid and it turns over fine now but I still have weak spark. The the wire on the end of the capicitor is rotted off. I ordered another one should be in tommorow. I had to order from the dealership cause our parts places in canada suck. I tried a few places but they don't sell em. But what confused me was the guy at the parts place said all that does is for noise for your stereo?
Its hooked up to the ignition coil so I figured it might have something to do with the spark being really weak.I also forgot the post what I had lol. I have and 87 Jeep yj, 4.2 litre,automatic.I don't know much about ignitions just basic. I know the capacitor stores electricity, so does it give extra volts to the primary on the ignition coil?
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mine is on the side of the coil. I was hoping that was the problem for my weak spark. Can't think of anything else what is causing it to be so weak. I pretty much replaced everything except for the capicitor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,806 Posts
Yes, no capacitor will definitely cause a weak spark. Been there and done that. That little guy stores a burst of energy needed by your coil. For future reference, you could probably find a capacitor off any old (points) distributor in the junkyard to replace it with. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have to check the voltage going into the coil with a volt meter my friend took a jumper wire and ran it directly to the battery and it didn't make a difference.As far as the capicitor I don't have points so does that still make a difference or is it just for radio interference like John said?
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What about a vacuum leak? Now that I think about it I had problems starting and keeping it running because I had a crack in one of my vacuum lines. Could a open or cracked vacuum line cause weak spark. Just trying to narrow things down.
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am charging up the battery now to a full charge. Been trying to start it killing my battery. Cleanded all the terminals and have a friend coming over tuesday to give me a hand since we are both off. Hopefully we can figure it out cause I want to get this thing on the road soon.

Wayne...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,870 Posts
I don't even know where to start on this one...

First off, the 'Condenser' (actually, it's just a Capacator), has NOTHING to do with spark energy unless it's shorted out internally.
Yours isn't even hooked up, so that point is moot. If you don't have ignition noise in your radio, leave it alone.

Secondly, when you say 'Weak Spark', what exactly do you mean?


General thoughts,
Modules are cheap, and you need to have an extra one for trail emergencies anyway.

Run a seprate ground wire to the black wire on the module.
DuraSpark ignitions ground through the distributor, and that is amazingly unreliable.

Make sure your cylinder heads are electricly grounded. 12 Gauge wire from heads to battery negitive. It has to go to the head, not a bracket or the engine block.

Last time I heard this complant, it turned out the guy didn't replace the gound strap from body to engine, and he kept cooking ignition coils.

Check and make sure the white wire at the module is getting 12 volts when the engine is cranking.
The red wire should have 12 volts when the ignition switch is in the 'Run' position.
These are two completely different circuits, so you have to check them seperately.

Netural safety or clutch safety switch kicking the bucket?
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top