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waterproof grease?

880 views 16 replies 5 participants last post by  muddybronco  
#1 ·
does such a thing really exist? i would like to find the thickest nastiest most-waterproof grease money can buy for my front wheel bearings, but of course it has to withstand disc brake temps (how hot does the hub get anyway?). i've always used coastal hi temp wheel bearing grease but it seems kinda thin for a hi temp application to me. what all do you guys use? i know it's impossible to keep water out of the hubs but if the grease was truly waterproof then at least i'd have a chance. as i understand it, the problem is that the air inside the hub heats up from the brakes and when it hits cold water it cools quickly and contracts, which pulls in water through the seals. SO, does anybody have any bright ideas on how to create a vent for the front hub/spindle area? i had one thought... if you point the hub rotor side up there is a void there between the rotor and the inner hub "cylinder"... well one could drill a hole into the inside of the hub and then plumb some type of rubber balloon that easily expands, so it wouldnt really be a vent but just a diaphragm that would allow the air to expand/contract inside the hub without sucking in water/debris. there seems to be enough room in there to do it but i dont know if it'd really help. whatcha think?
 
#2 ·
Been there; done that; got to buy new wheel bearings.
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Boat-trailer grease, though thick, nasty, & waterproof, won't stand up to disc brake temps. And even though all grease is "waterproof", water still gets emulsified into it by the churning action of the bearings. So while I agree with your analysis of WHY water comes in, I think your idea for the solution is not practicable for these reasons: it creates a way for water to bypass the seals; it hinges on the availability of a diaphragm that will fit the specific shape of that pocket in the hub assembly without snagging on the spindle bolt heads or any debris that makes its way in there; it requires fairly delicate & precise drilling thru heavy cast iron to get the proper area vented (the hub lock); and, the vent hole might create a weak spot in an extremely important part.

My suggestion is to simply pack the area between the wheel bearings as thoroughly as possible (I use a straw on the grease gun tip), and pull the hub locks to drain them when necessary (using a can of computer air to blow out the last drops). You'll probably find that this is a LOT less effort overall than the diaphragm option and probably at least as effective.
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#4 ·
yep, you get your loot?

steve, yeah it sounds a little elaborate but it could be incased in a shield to protect it... it wouldnt really have to be that big i dont think. and the hole would be small so i dont think the strength issue would be that big a deal.
 
#7 ·
heh, yeah those balljoints were quite toasty! i've got it all back together except the caliper and the lockout. how the HELL does that lockout go together? i tried to use my old lockout but it didnt fit in the hub, so i spent 5 minutes trying to figure it out but it was dark and the bugs were getting me so i gave up for the night. i think i'm missing a piece, or i just couldnt see it in the bottom of the box... i'll look again tomorrow. also, does that funky nut/washer assembly need a locknut behind it to keep it from backing off? i assume it does but wasnt sure since i didnt see one in the box... i can just use my old outer locknut if i need it.
 
#9 ·
well i got it all together but i had to use my old lockout cuz there is about 1/4" too much play in the axle shaft using the 79 lockout... it needs a washer of some sort to space it out. i think i know what's missing, some sort of piece that would hold the shaft from moving up down L and R... none of these pieces does that, they just allow the hub to lock in and out. i appear to have everything in your picture too so i dont know what's going on. i think there needs to be some sort of retainer that positions that little "star" thing inside the hub but lets it rotate freely til the other big "star" engages it. do you see what i mean? regardless, i went out and farmed some sh!t up right after i finished! i got off in some 6" deep clay stuff and i was throwing baseball size clumps on the hood and roof... it's so nice to be back in the MACHINE!
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#15 ·
#17 ·
NEW IDEA! had a brainstorm... interesting idea: what if i put a zerk fitting on the hub right behind the lockout body and pumped a sh1tload of grease in there til it starts coming out of the lockout splines so that the whole hub is packed with grease. obviously it would block water from getting in AND there would be no air in the hub to contract when it hits the water... feasible? swamp donkey made a little tool that threads onto the spindle to pack the spindle bore, so that water path could be eliminated also. any opinions?