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Warn Manual Hubs on a Wrangler

1128 Views 17 Replies 1 Participant Last post by  **DONOTDELETE**
Has anyone tried those manual hub conversion kits on a Wrangler? If so, did it make any difference in the highway MPG?

Thanks,
James Hiers


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G
i dont think you will see a major improvement in mileage. the advantages of doing this are:
having a non unitized bearing assy
you can eliminate the diconnect
less wear and drag (a good idea if you run a locker)
if you break an axle or diff you can dial out the hubs and still drive

also mabey not as important by most but a big thing for myself is that i believe that mechanical systems should have mechanical controls. i am a knob and lever kind of guy.

dan

/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.giflet it snow/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
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G
Amen Blackjack!!!!! I hate auto stuff. I've found that it usally isn't auto anything.

Gary
G
Being the devils advocate:
-no more shift on the fly...
-if you're stuck on an incline (I tend to wheel in 2 wd until I get stuck) - they'll be hard to lock.
-hubs get REALLY cold in the snow
-You'll loose your warranty (if you're still covered)
-hard to shift on the fly with manual hubs...
-most YJ's still have open front diffs..

Thanks for the pros. I enjoy the shift on the fly...

Jon-YJ94
a work in progress
[email protected]
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G
Hey YJ94 u will miss that shift on the fly so much u had to mention it 3 times?? I would convert to the manual hubs, even though they are small(due to the small bolt pattern on YJ's) I would still do it. I am swapping axles and can't wait to get manual hubs on my YJ.

I remember when I was young back in like 85 I think and my parents had a Bronco II with manual hubs we used to hate it cause you had to get out and turn the hubs to get in 4wd......now I miss the hubs!!!!

absolutjeep
http://members.tripod.com/iluvjeeps
G
Ok, so I couldn't think of that many positives, but there's nothing better than driving up 395 (Eastern side of the Sierras) in the middle of a snow storm, chains required / 4wd with snow tires OK, and you see a bunch of manual hubs pulled over with the (gag) CARS, locking their hubs... A wave ususually adds insult to injury, so I tend to just smile to myself... /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

Jon-YJ94
a work in progress
[email protected]
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G
You're evil Jon./wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif

_____________________
John
95.5 YJ with "stuff"
http://SonsofThunder4x4.com
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G
The biggest advantage is being able to run a locker in the front diff and not have it functioning all the time. Even if you are not in 4wd, the axles are still spinning on a yj and that means the locker has to be engaging and disengaging when turning. Having the manual hubs lets your wheels spin free of the axles and locker.

G
i would step up an go with the 5x5.5in hub conversion. it is more work and a little more money, but you get larger hubs, and a whole new world of wheel options open up for you.

dan

/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.giflet it snow/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
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G
Does anybody actually know what the reasoning is the disconnect is in the longer axle side? There must be some kind of advantage to having it there but I can't see what it can be? On standard D30 with no locker the diff should take care of speed differences in cornering so what gives /wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif ??

Confused

BlueJay
93 YJ with stuff (and it is Blue!)
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G
I'm thinking of doing this to my YJ for 2 reasons:

1. I have a front locker. With the hubs I can prevent the driveshaft/diff from turning while driving on the street. Less vibration and wear and tear.

2. The warn kit comes with lifetime warranties on their axle shafts. If you get the inner axles too (about $300 extra), you will have stronger axles, and they will have lifetime warranties. Now I don;t know exactly what this warranty covers, but I'm trying to find out. For me this is a big thing - I can beef it up to handle 35s (it does great with the stock axles, a locker, and 33s now), rid myself of any vibration, get lifetime warranty on the axles, and carry my stock axle shafts as spares.

The downside is the price is pretty steep - the other option I'm weighing is spending more and getting a D44 - at least $1000 more, any way I look at it (looking at wagoneer axles, have scout axles sitting around, or simply buying custom axle).

Chad

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G
Here's my $.02.... The 5 on 4.5 conversion is probably not a good choice, if you plan on running 35's and/or a locker in the front. I spoke with a tech guy at Warn and he thought the little Ranger hubs just won't hold up to the stress. The 5 on 5.5 conversion would be much strong and would probably hold up a lot better.

My advise is to save your money and buy a front D44. You get bigger brakes, bearings, etc.... I think, the 5 on 5.5 conversion is about $1000. That's the same price as a new set of 1 ton outers with Warn premium hubs (from Tri County). Put another 2k with that and you'll have a front D44 with 4.56 gears, a Detroit, Warn hubs and 1-ton outers. This is the route I took and I'm far less paranoid about breaking stuff - besides the fact that it's done. No more upgrades to do on my front axle.

Jim

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G
Wait, 3k for the front axle?

I don't know if this will work, but what about upgrading the rear diff to a D44, and then moving the 35 to the front...???

Jon-YJ94
a work in progress
[email protected]
G
How would you turn? And the pumpkin is centered instead of offset.
More trouble than it's worth IMHO

_____________________
John
95.5 YJ with "stuff"
http://SonsofThunder4x4.com
G
Yeah... 3k is a lot. But it beats spending 1000 now and then throwing it away when you decide: hey, I really do want a front D44 and end up spending the 3k anyways.

Jim

G
I got a front D44 from a Wagoneer(86) and it has bigger bearings, manual hubs, HUGE 11 1/4" brakes.....it cost me...200 for the axle and about 500 more for new rotors(from a 1980 Ford to conver to 5x5.5"), new spindles, new calipers, and Warn Hubs.......so that is what I got for 700 bucks and basically its all new parts!!!

absolutjeep
http://members.tripod.com/iluvjeeps
G
I looked at a ton of possibilities for customizing a used axle for my '97 TJ. Everything I looked at would have cost between 1500 and 2500, by the time I bought the used axle, new brackets from RE ($400), new brakes, cut down axle shafts, refurbished the outers, etc.

I decided to just drop another 1k get ALL new parts. Things were easier and cheaper to upgrade with CJ and YJs, but... I'm glad, I went with a TJ.

Jim

G
Good point jlambert....I forgot to mention that I do have a YJ....so it is easier to upgrade than a TJ(front axle anyway)...by the way are we talking about a YJ or TJ?? It just says Wrangler.....hmmm??

absolutjeep
http://members.tripod.com/iluvjeeps
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