[1082]

Okay. Clearly you can only get so far in this without the ability to weld. Since I have NO knowledge of it, but I pick stuff up pretty quickly, what do you recommend I start with. The idea is not to make anything pretty, but to learn to put together some stuff as practice.
a 110 buzz-box and a book?
Michael

 

[Guest]

A book is a good start, but check your local community college for classes. That way you learn a bunch of different types of welding and you have someone qualified to show you what to do. It is easy to weld, but hard to know that you have good weld penetration. At the very least bribe a friend with a welder to show you. If you can afford one, a MIG is usually the most forgiving to learn on.

 

[SteveInColorado]

A book probably would be the place to start. It can teach you the basic patterns, rods, and theory. The welder, on the other hand, depends on what you want to do. The better the welder, though, the easier it is to weld, whether you're a rookie or a pro. For this type stuff, I'd say spend at least $500 on a Lincoln or Miller that goes up to at least 120 amps. I think anything less would be harder to learn with and disappoint you once you get the hang of it.

 

[1591]

Having learned on both, I have to say the wire welder (MIG) is easieer and more forgiving. Use flux core wire. Stick welding was some time ago and I could do OK, but I nevre really got good at it. When I started on the Jeepsters, like you I found it a necessity to learn again.

Read the instructions with a machine, read a book, have a qualified person show you and/or take a class at comm. college (whatever works for you, how do you learn best?). I had a welder at work explain the process, show me how and then I read a book. Then practice a LOT!!!

I also found that a welding hood with an auto dark lens makes it easier since you can see what you are about to weld and not have to worry about flipping the hood down, striking an arc and finding where you want to start welding. With a regular hood, I always found that in flipping it down, I invariably moved the rod or gun and when I struck the arc it was not where I wanted to start the weld.

I got an auto darkening one on e-bay for around $60 plus shipping, works great for me.

I have welded some pretty heavy stuff with a mig welder that cost around $300. Biggest was some 1/2" plate brackets on a bucket for skid loader. Beveled the edge, welded all the way around and have used it to dig out an extension to our drive way (40'x30') with nary a crack or weld failure. Welded lots of stuff on the Jeepster, from sheet metal for non-ventilated floor pans to rear bumper brackets from channel & plate. Made some pretty nice welds, more so-so ones and some downright ugly booger welds! Grind out the bad ones and do it again.

Penetration, the correct materials, a clean joint (shiney clean!), the correct weld rod or wire & enough heat input are the key to a good strong weld.

Just my .02 on the subject.
Brad.

 

[NoBucks]

Don't waste your time with a 110 buzzbox. If you're going to spend money on a welder, but don't want to spend too much, but still want one that does the job, get a 220 stick. If you learn to weld with a stick, everything else will be simple. Either way, make sure you get one that will have enough power to weld the stuff you want to weld. If you're going to weld a lot of sheet metal, then you're better off getting some kind of wire feed.

While you're looking into classes pick up a welder, read the book, and start messing around with it.

I agree with what Brad said. An autodark helmet makes for better welding. If you're used to a flip down helmet, the first few times are kind of unnerving, as you're looking through a clear lens and hoping that this new fangled thing works.

 

[BRIANster]

I will second the community college sugestion (that's what I did). Not only do you get training from someone experienced and try several methods of welding but you get a book and all the scraps you could possibly need to play with and nobody to interupt you while your trying to learn.

 

[SteveInColorado]

The 220 stick is, well, OK, but when you start doing body sheet metal you'll really need the wire feed. Look for a farm supply store. They usually have the best prices on decent welders. Maybe $500 is a bit much, but like I said, the better the welder, the easier it is to use.
I learned by reading some books and practicing, asking my dad questions (he was a certified welder), and practicing some more. I worked as a fabricator for a couple years, building stainless steel industrial machinery. Even with all that and 20 years experience, I think I could benefit from some classes.
Auto-darkening helmets rock! They came out when I WAS a fabricator, and none of us would touch'em. We all figured nothing could react fast enough to a TIG flash to save your eyes, but they do. I should have bought one a long time ago.
Steve.

 

[2147]

I would have to chime in on the Community College approach. Of course I work at one so I am biased, we have a couple of classes in our schedule that are on autobody restoration, so when your checking into Community Colleges don't just check the welding department, the auto restoration class we offer teaches mig and oxy acetylene welding, plus you get a lot of info on metal shaping panel welding, metal shrinking, bondo work and for the purests; metal finishing with no bondo.

If you do decide to get a 220V buzz box stick machine try to get a AC DC machine, I use a rod called 6011 for a lot of the repairs I do around the farm, and I found it runs so much better on a DC machine than on AC. 6011 rod is good for repairs because it can be run in all positions an penetrates rust and dirt to a good degree that must be why they call it "farmer rod"

Wire feed welders "MIG" are nice but I still feel the 110v machines are best used for just body work. "That will spark some discussion". The flux core wire one of the posts mentioned does increase the amperage of the unit, so you can weld a bit thicker steel with it. The real advantage I see of the flux core wire is the fact that you don't have to have any gas bottle with it. So it is really portable.

 

[GRQster]

I bought the the old Lincoln 220 stick years ago and I can do best with it. I got spoiled by a Miller 1250 at my place for a while but it wasn't mine so it was gone before too long.
Learn the basics, then the rest will fall into place.

 

[RRich]

I agree on all the posts. But - avoid the mickey mouse 110 volt welders unless you just are going to do thin sheet metal. They just don't have enough heat for good penetration. I had one for awhile - a Hobart 135 - totally junk!
The idea of welding is to melt the pieces together, not just pile on filler. Without enough heat it's more like using a hot glue gun, and not much stronger.

Now I use a real one, not a toy - a Miller 210 - even that's marginal for really thick stuff - 3/8 or thicker. Then I use my old Lincoln 225 stick.

Gas - I love it - no chipping slag, nice clean welds. It's more expensive and a little more trouble, but well worth it. The only trouble is in a drafty situation - the wind carries it away.

If you are going to invest in a welder, do it right the first time get a good one - it's something you'll have the rest of your life. You'll be surprised at how often you use it once you have it.

The auto helmet -- at first I was reluctant too - thought it was much adoo about nothing -- now I won't do anything without it! Sometimes I wonder how I ever did without it.

Check the recycler and newspaper ads, every once in awhile you find really good deals in there. Sometimes someone buys a good welder to do a certain job, then sells it cheap.

Get a friend to help you try theirs a few times before you buy, that way you know what you are looking at.

 

[010]

so you want to learn to weld, forget the books, forget the schools. Find a dc 220 cracker box, a box of 7018 rod and have fun. Burn the whole box at one sitting. You can learn quicker by yourself just practice, practice hand on experience. Just crank the amps. Like CJDave says crank the amps hot and try to keep up

 

[090]

The offer still stands to come up and try my 100 Amp min-mig, 220V stick, and gas welders. I'm about 1.5 hours away.
Check your local adult education or ROP courses, they should offer it at MJC, if not in Manteca. One evening a week will give you skills your hobby demands. Besides, REAL men can cut metal with fire!

 

[1078]

www.weilerwelding.com has been known to haggle on prices if you contact them

 

[2359]

This has been something I've wanted to learn as well. I considered a local community college but a friend of mine suggested the Union of Operating Engineers Training School. I gave them a call and I begin Saturday classes in January. May be another avenue if the community college thing doesn't work out for you. I think there are other national trade organizations that offer classes such as AGC (Associated General Contractors).

 

[1272]

there is a book at Home Depot called the Welders handbook. but a copy and read it FULLY.

Then figure out what you are going to be welding.

500 bucks is plenty of money.

Practice is the key, you can never have enough.

220V MIG is a better deal but more expensive.
a 110 MIG is fine but on thicker stuff use multiple passes.

Stick is hard to do sheetmetal.but cheap

Oxy just damn hard for beginners but cheap

TIG is expensive and Hard to learn, but I am biased cause that is all I do everyday.

 

[1663]

you'll want to learn to weld on metal that is clean.

rust doesnt weld it explodes, and paint and bondo will not let you weld, so youll have to wire wheel down to metal.

good luck

oh and never weld naked or in baggy clothes. AMHIK

 

[NoBucks]

Although, I seem to recall that if your initials are RQ you are allowed to weld in shorts and flip-flops.

 

[SteveInColorado]

Man, if community colleges teach you not to weld naked, I REALLY need to take that class.

 

[RRich]

That class is really ha-- uh, er - difficult to get into.
Mostly pretty young girls fill it up.