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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the subject line covers most of the questions I have
I asked a similar question a long while back but have some new info/thoughts that may change things. Here's the situation: I'm running a transfer case (not stock) that has an actual centre output. The rear Toy axle actually has the pinion offset to the pass. side by about 1 inch from centre. SO, the driveshaft won't "actually" be going straight to the rear diff.... can anyone say vibes??? Not to mention the fact that the driveshaft will be short as it is. So, here are 2 solutions, both doing the same thing: run a 2" spacer on the pass. side wheel and slide the diff over 1" to centre the pinion, OR just use a 2" backspaced wheel on the pass. side and do the same thing. BUT, what about this....

I've read (and will do) that the pinion should be pointed down by about 2 degrees from the rear output of the transfer case when a CV shaft is used. Something about working the U-joint at the diff end. Sound right? Well, what if instead of bothering with the spacer/ BS rim idea, I just left it as is (not centered) and just pointed the pinion right at the transfer case? That way, the U-joint gets worked, I don't add any additional angles (by being offset to pass. side AND dropping it 2 degrees) and don't have to bother with the moving of the axle. As it stands now, the diff isn't in the truck yet: just sitting loose under there so it's easy either way.

Now, what do you guys think?!?!?!


Cheers!
Steve
 

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I don't think 1" is enough to worry about. My Yota is about 1" offset. Most vehicles I've been under are not a straight shot either. Running the CV would take care of any "would be" vibes.

If you point the pinion at the T-case, what will be the shaft's operating angle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys but the only issue I really had was with the length of the driveshaft. All those applications you guys listed most likely have driveshafts A LOT longer than mine would be. "Would be" because I don't know how long it will be. I'll know soon enough though. I'm going to try to push the diff back as far as possible and lower the t-c as much as I can without losing ground clearance. Maybe if I raise the engine a bit, and increase the drivetrain angle to compensate..... hmm, interesting.... we'll see


Cheers,
Steve
 

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Don't point the rear flange directly to the t-case. you need a degree or two down to compensate for spring wrap during acceleration. When you hit the loud pedal the torque will want to rotate the pinnion up. Unless you have a good traction bar or a linked rear end I'd leave 2 degrees at least. Also, how much shorter are we talking about here on the shaft?? If you going to be real short you might want to concider a high angle CV or run a CV at both ends of the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for that help man, I'll take those options into consideration. I'm not sure yet exactly how short the shaft will be. But it will be at least a couple inches shorter than a stock Zuk shaft. Probably more? I don't know yet. I will be running a trac bar though but the 2 degrees still sounds like a good idea... Thanks again...

Cheers,
Steve
 
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