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Various basic questions.RRO\'s Trailblazer, etc.

Forgive me if these have been asked before, I didnt find anything on the search...
After a lift, What are you guys doing for a swaybar? Do you make disconnects, or just eliminate it all together(yikes!)
How about the steering stabilizer? I am looking at RRO's 7 inch Trailblazer with the OTT steering. Do I need anything special? (I know RRO hangs out here, any info would be great!)
How well do the stock brakes hold up to 33's? Is there any bolt-on upgrades except the Subaru rear disks? I know from experience, big tires+small brakes=bad deal!

Any thoughts on the headlight conversions?(H4 bulbs in a new style housing) These stockers are kinda weak!

Custom bumbers, what are you doing for lights? I want use LED's, and have no problem using an electronic relay. If you use a single light per side, can you set up a pair of diodes to prevent turn signals from back-feeding into the park lights, and vice-verse?

Thanks for any opinions, ideas, etc. I must say, I havent enjoyed working on a vehicle in a long time! OK, except the over use of loc-tite on EVERY screw-my impct driver is getting a work-out!

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645 Posts
Re: Various basic questions.RRO\'s Trailblazer, etc.

Depends if it is a daily driver or not. I have the RRO trailblazer kit, but I'm not running any swaybars or steering stabilizer. Then again, it's not a daily driver. It sits in the garage until it's time to wheel. Spidertrax sells brackets that you use to convert your drums into disc brackes by using sami calipers and rotors. The kit fits 33's nicely as thats what I run, but you are pushing the limits of the stock axles. Wheel smart and easy on the gas and you won't have a problem.


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2,871 Posts
Re: Various basic questions.RRO\'s Trailblazer, etc.

What Koko said. I'll add a few comments

Mostly the stock swaybar is so basically useless, most just lose it. That said, I disagree with that attitude
on a dual purpose rig. While my Sj410 never had one, (they got added in 85 or 6 with the bigger (heavier)
1.3) I plan on adding a sprint car torsion bar with 2 long arms to make a sway bar with a quick disconnect
when I put in the SPOA and bigger tires (It's still waiting on an engine donor, 45 hp simply won't pull
anything more than stock tires, with or without gears) Without one you get more body roll than I want to
deal with.

I prefer the Breeze Xover steering, but that won't get you the tie rod up high. I am not satisfied with
any system I've seen that raises the tie rod so far, because they all eliminate the ackerman angles
designed into every steering system out there (with some exceptions in some classes of racing)

Ackermann keeps the tires on the correct radius to each other in turns, and automatically corrects for all
turn angles. If you look at where the tie rod end balls are, in relation to the king pin axis, it is obvious on
a front tie rod 4x4 that the are way outboard of the king pin axis. This difference is what causes the
correction. With the RRO and many other Hi-steer systems out there this is eliminated and you get 0
ackerman correction. with the Mercedes arms you actually get negative ackerman angle. In both
cases it will cause the tires to scrub in turns. The Mercedes arms will have more scrub. At a minimum,
this will cause tires to wear faster and at worst could cause tire slippage just when you don't want it.
While possibly acceptable to some in a trail only rig (not to me) I cannot recommend this in a street driven

Steering stabilizers, Definitely run one, I don't have a favorite. Just make sure it doesn't limit turn radius.
I have found on several full size rigs that the shock doesn't have enough travel and acts as a limiter.
Mounting to the tie rod is preferred over the stock location. Don't expect a post from Glenn (RRO), he
hasn't posted here for quite some time. While for a time there was a technical reason for him not posting,
that was fixed last I heard, but I don't doubt he got tired of being bashed regularly.

Stock brakes upgrade, I just pick up this tidbit here recently. I don't remember who posted it (apologies to
whoever it was, I didn't even need to take notes, it stuck in my brain that well!), but the front disks can be
Upgraded with rotors and calipers from a 4 door trackkick. They are a vented rotor and the calipers have
larger pads. The beauty of it is its a complete bolt on. The only negative is the Trackkick mounts the caliper
differently so bleeding will require you to dismount the caliper to get the bleeder valve so its at the top so the
air can come out. Just remember to put in a spacer for the rotor when bleeding. Upgrading the front will
do far more than upgrading the rears. Except in reference to stopping in reverse.

In reference to the taillights, my only comment is to use separate units, not diodes, I have done the diode
thing several times, for lights and other things, and I must say I don't care for it from a reliability aspect.
Its too hard to mount the diodes in a way that protects them from physical damage.

OK thats enough for now!

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