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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 1989 4.2 has been sitting for a while.......as you know I have not been able to start it.....Well found what the problem is.......a couple valves are stuck open.....And iam am looking for some advice on what to do.....Has anyone heard of these valves getting stuck open......they dont seem to be bent....will know more today .....but for now interested in your advice on a solution. If your on AOL please instant message me at [email protected]
thanks
Bern

 

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I heard somewhere that ATF has good cleaning properties. Someone wrote that their lifters were sticking and someone said to try using the ATF. I think the other solution was to use Marvel Mystery Oil.
If the valves are sticking open, perhaps you could remove the valve cover and pour either the ATF or the Marvel Oil over the valve springs and stems where they go into the valve guides. Let it set for awhile to soak in and see if they close. Maybe things are alittle gummed up.
I have never used either of these products for this purpose so I cannot recommend you do this. I am only telling you what I have heard from other people.
If you go this route, especially with the ATF, I would definetly drain the oilpan and change the oil before starting the engine.
I think the Marvel Mystery oil is an oil additive so read the instructions.

Imagine life with no paved roadways!
Billy
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
We always took a small hammer and tapped on the valves to get them to seat up..Not a hard smack, just a steady tap..It'll sound hollow if it's closing...If you get them unstuck, and get it running, then take a dribble atf down the carb. ..That should lube them up for you..

It's as close to a 1ton as it can get and still be a jeep!!! Gotta love it!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi....Well i pulled the valve cover off and 2 valves are stuck open....I would think that is was from the jeep sitting for 8 mnths and the gas went bad. I will try the ATF tommarow morning, sure hope it frees them up, i would hate to pull the head. Thanks for the input guys....Open to any other tricks
Thanks again
Bern

 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well i couldnt wait till the morning.......The ATF worked ,alll the valves are closed.........Now do you think i should drain all the gas out of the tank....(theres less than 1/4 of a tank) or you think i could get away with filling it with fresh gas, and adding a fuel additive. Since the YJ sat for 8 months i would think that is the culprit(bad Fuel)Hey thanks for the great advice!!!!!!!!!The $$$$$$$$$ i saved for a head job will go towards some new tires.
thanks again
Bern

 

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Drain the gas? Nope, but I would fill the tank and add "Seafoam" additive to it to clean out the varnish ....

 

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1. Defination of Plethora to follow:

Pleth"o*ra (?), n. [NL., fr. Gr. , fr. to be or become full. Cf. Pleonasm.]

1. Overfullness; especially, excessive fullness of the blood vessels; repletion; that state of the blood vessels or of the system when the blood exceeds a healthy standard in quantity; hyperæmia; -- opposed to anæmia.

2. State of being overfull; excess; superabundance.

Yes....but it's not what my wife describes me as being "full of."

 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
HEY LEVE......How much seaform do i add to the tank? One mechanic told me that the only way to remove the varnish would be to pull the springs and manually clean each valve stem with carb-cleaner and completely empty the tank of gas. Is this over kill?..I figured fill the tank up (like Leve suggested) and add some cleaning additive, Never haerd of seaform? Thanks
Bern

 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Since i have the valve cover off.......should i re-torque all the rockers?......I set the crank to TDC and then what ? Is there a sequence of tighting? And what is the factory torque Lbs on each of them? I have to re-torque the rockers that i removed in order to seat the valves ....Almost on the road again......thanks
Bern

 

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Seafoam is a company that makes fuel and oil attitives. Seafoam is a "run-through" type carb/fuel system cleaner. It has the added benefits of removing carbon deposits in the head, when used in high concentration. It also cleans out sludge in the crank case when it's added to engine oil. Just follow the instructions on the cans. In my little area of the world NAPA stocks the stuff.

Me, I simply call Seafoam "Panther Piss," it's my little name for all additives. I swear by the stuff, rather than at it.You could remove the head and remove each valve and burnish the stems and guides and reassemble... or you could use the "stuff rope into the cylinder" trick to hold the valves up and flush with Carb cleaner. Me, I'm lazy and that's too much work if you may not need to do it. Adding Seafoam to the oil and gas and let's you, hopefully, watch it done for you.

What's ya got to loose, except a few bucks?


 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok....Seafoam it is...!!!Since i have the valve cover off.......should i re-torque all the rockers?......I set the crank to TDC and then what ? Is there a sequence of tighting? And what is the factory torque Lbs on each of them? I have to re-torque the rockers that i removed in order to seat the valves ....Almost on the road again......thanks
Bern





 

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Retorquing does not aid in seating the valve but it helps to set the backlash.
There is no specific order for torquing the rockers, simply loosley install the cap screws for each rocker bridge. tighten alternately one turn at a time. Then tighten cap screws to 19 ft/lbs torque.

Torque Setting:
Torque Rocker Arm Assemblies to 19 ft/lbs.
Torque Valve Cover bolts to 70 in/lbs

 
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