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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
how many of you have replaced the ujoints in the shaft that is between the tranny and tcase? seems like these would have the least wear, but i might replace them whenever i take the tcase off to put gear in (seems it would be easiest with the tcase out of the way).

is it worth getting greaseable ujoints (not just for intermediate shaft, but for all)?

thanks again

Steve
'88 Suzuki Samurai
2" S/R 30x9.50 M/T's
'99 Toyota Tacoma (Tow Vehicle)
[email protected]
Texas A&M Off-Road
FTAC of 2003
 
Yankee Tim

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#2 ·
There's arguments over greaseable vs. non-grease with regards to strength. I personally run the Autozone $7.33 cheap greasables. I carry a few extra and if they break, it' a lifetime warranty (just ask Wildweasel).

As far as greasable, if you plan on dunking into water or mud, then definately. Grease 'um after everytime you wheel like that.

Yankee Tim/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 
W

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#3 ·
The only ones I used to break where the rear driveshaft,
And that was when I smacked'em hard on a ledge. I need greasable, I run in wet conditions and am a maint fanatic,
in the front and intermediate shafts I haven't had any problems. I need something to keep the guys at the "Zone
amused. As hard as I run I expect some breakage,but not when diddy booping down the highway. The only real problem with the auto zone ones is the retaining c -clips are a little too thick, You think they are seated, But not fully.
So I have talked to them about it and they sent in a trouble report, But as far as I know they are the same clips.

Glenn
87' Zook Spoa,M/L 33's, 4.16 tcase,4.62 gears Camo,Header,2"exhuast, Cam.
Lockers, 8klb winch, -Wildweasel2 NE4WI- club http://www.cs.umass.edu/~glenn/personal.html
 
Zukinator

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#5 ·
I just replaced all of my u-joints a couple weeks ago. I did the shaft between the trans. and the t-case last. I too used the AutoZone $7 greasable joints and had some difficulty with the c-clips -- I wasn't able to get the joints to "free-up" completely as I would have liked before reinstalling the shaft but I have greased them twice in 2 weeks and all seems fine. -- Removing the shaft with the t-case in isn't difficult but if you're going to pull your case that would be as good a time as any.

I'll be back.

 
Nowhere

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#6 ·
I've got the greasers too. I also had trouble instaling those @#$#@$ pins. I found if you install one, hammer on the other side to get the other one in, and then hammer the other side until it moves freely. If you just bash it around, the joint is very stiff! Now that I've got a few hundred miles on my joints and have gone swimming a couple of times, they are nice and broken in.. I've greased them a few times also.... Takes a long time to get them out, but very easy to install.. I had a bad upper bearing, vibes like no tommrow. Nice and quiet now.. I need to do the front ones also. I'm thinking on doing an extended slip yoke too..
l8r

got zook?
http://www.geocities.com/bik3r
29x10.5x15 SS TSL *SX*, Calmini Header, SPOA, Lights, Dupicolor!
 
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#7 ·
I had a similar problem with Spicer U-joints from Napa with the retainer clips not fitting the slot so it is not just the inexpensive u-joints that have this problem. Also I might add that I replaced my u-joints just before my last run and had one a "little tight". I figured it would loosen up. After coming back from the run I had to pull the shafts for a non-related reason and the u-joint that was a "little tight" went to awfully durn tight. Just something to keep in mind.

Scott Whitmore
"Share your knowledge. It's a way to achieve immortality." Dalai Lama
 
W

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#8 ·
Yes the u-joints must be free moving, don't be tempted to install a "Little Tight " one, I lost a driveshaft
at speed on a NH highway becuase of that, I now keep the OEM clips and use them, I am going to go to the hardware store and but some of the right thickness.

Glenn
87' Zook Spoa,M/L 33's, 4.16 tcase,4.62 gears Camo,Header,2"exhuast, Cam.
Lockers, 8klb winch, -Wildweasel2 NE4WI- club http://www.cs.umass.edu/~glenn/personal.html
 
Zukinator

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#11 ·
No, there shouldn't be any play in the joint. However, the joint should be free moving -- it is common for the joint to be stiff when installed but usually a smack or two on the yoke with the hammer will seat it or free it up. It should move in a similar fashion to how it will be when you take it out - ie. if you hold up the yoke it will easily fall. Sometimes when a new joint is installed, the shaft of the joint will be pressed tightly into bearing cap. So if you hold up the yoke it will not fall on its own.

Has anyone found that one joint of the same type (Autozone) will install differently than another? Do the thicknesses of the clips vary? I'd never had a problem with getting joints to free up in the past -- in some ways I am glad to know that I am not the only one that has had this problem -- on the other hand I now feel a little uneasy that there is a potential problem. Better to know than not though - I'll pull my shaft again and see if the joints have seated better than they were initially.

I'll be back.

 
G

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#12 ·
I too use the Autozone $7 specials. They are the greasable kind and the c-clips at my local Autozone are finally the correct size, ie..they fit. I would like to dispell any rumors that greasable joints arent as strong. It is a myth that greasable joints arent as strong. Four Wheeler magazine, June 1999 Vol. 36, No. 6, did a superb article on U-joints and axles. Using a special machine at Warn, they tested the breaking point of axles and u-joints. I will share with you the first paragraph of this article addressing this:
"Shattered Myth 1: Greasable U-joints are weaker than non-greasable.
Warn's data suggests that what Spicer has been saying for years is true. There is essentially no significant difference in ultimate strength between a greasable and non-greasable U-joint."

For those with the C-clip problems. I had the same problem and ruined an intermediate shaft because the clips came loose. I took it into Autozone and told them the clips didnt fit. It wasnt long after that Autozone started carrying an updated U-joint with the proper clips. I know because I bought 2 of them and 1 was boxed with the old clips. So atleast MY local Autozone has solved the problem, but apparantly some others have not. Yet! Just hound them, they will fix it. :)

ICQ# = 3859170
http://php.iupui.edu/~mrwills1/sami.html
 
W

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#13 ·
There should be no play once installed but they should move freely bot stiff. if you get one you will know.
The stiffness is caused by too much preload on the end of the caps.

Glenn
87' Zook Spoa,M/L 33's, 4.16 tcase,4.62 gears Camo,Header,2"exhuast, Cam.
Lockers, 8klb winch, -Wildweasel2 NE4WI- club http://www.cs.umass.edu/~glenn/personal.html
 
G

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#14 ·
Hey TexasA&Moffroad, do you have any pictures of your sammi w/ the 2" s/r and 30" m/t? I am about to put this setup on mine w/a 1" body lift and was wondering how it works and looks.

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif 84 cj7 Laredo /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Superior 1 piece, more to come...../wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 
Yankee Tim

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#16 ·
Here is what I found out on the u-joints around here. Autozone, NAPA and Big A all had the same u-joint, but in different boxes.

I had ones labeled "United Parts", "TRW". "Neapco" and "PDQ". They were all the same exact u-joint. Prices however ran from $7.33 up to $29 per joint.

I now use Autozone exclusively.

Yankee Tim/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 
G

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#17 ·
That looks exactly how I want mine to look except for the 1" body lift for good measure. How does it ride with the shackle reverse? Is it a noticeable difference? This thing is only going to be driven back and forth to work for my girlfriend about 10 mi. away

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif 84 cj7 Laredo /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Superior 1 piece, more to come...../wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 
G

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#19 ·
I just picked up 2 spare U joints for $6.99 each plus tax. That seems like a real good price and every AUTOZONE I called had 4 in stock.

 
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Zukinator
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