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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tune-up time going to TR\'s upgrade on a 76\'

Since it is tune up time, I am going to the TeamRush's ignition upgrade. I have a 76 CJ5 with a 258 I-6.

I probably have the presotlite distributor, Is there anyway to tell?

These are the parts I am going to get.
Reman'ed 78 - 90 motorcraft disributor for a 258 I-6 (are there any differences in the way the oil pump or gears mesh on this distributor, anything else that I should be aware of)
Duraspark module for the same engine

After I have this I should be able to do the upgrade (Right?)

Now for the upgrade

From an 81 Ford F-150 with a 300 I-6
Distributor cap base
Distributor cap
Rotor

From a 84 Ford F-150 with a V-8 with EEC
TFI coil Delco P/N F503Z

From a 84 Ford F-150 with a 300 I-6
Spark Plug wires 8.5mm Spiral core

MSD wiring adapter P/N 8869

Spark plug gap of 0.045" - 0.065"

Does this sound about right for the parts?

I have never removed a distributor from an engine before, any tips to make this go easier.

How hard is it to tune this thing after I am done. Do I need a timing light? I have never done a proper tune up in my life. again any suggestions.

I am learning everyday, and I think I can do this I just want to make sure I can avoid any problems.

Sorry for the long post.

Lunatic
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Re: Tune-up time going to TR\'s upgrade on a 76\'

Not sure about most of your questions but I do know the answers to one or two of them.

First of all, before you even start to take your distributor shaft out of the engine, rotate the engine to top dead center on the number one cylinder. Some ways to tell you're on the compression stroke on the first cylinder is to put a cork (or rubber stopper) in the spark plug hole, and when it pops out of there, you rotate it until the timing mark on the vibration dampener/harmonic balancer is lined up with the 0 mark on the scale that is there. Now what I'd do is take a paint pen or similar item and mark where the distributor gets clamped in and one on the block, so you'll know exactly how to put it back in so it'll be timed right (not sure how you'd get the mark transferred to another distributor) or you could just make a note of where the rotor is pointing so you know you're putting it back in the right way...

The hardest part (for me at least) of removing a distributor is working up the nerve to finally do it... /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

(Is this method the best method to use, T.R., CJDave, or anyone else?) Seems to have worked for me before, but unfortunately that wasn't on a Jeep... /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

Tim
/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif '79 Suburban 4x4 454, 35x12.5s
/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif '85 S15 4x4 2.8l, 235/75's
 

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Re: Tune-up time going to TR\'s upgrade on a 76\'

/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif That seems OK to me/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif. You just need to understand that the rotor will move a bit when you pull it out, and you need to note that so you can start the rotor in that spot on re-installation so it will rotate back to exactly where it was.....then you're set. Just be sure that #1 on one cap is in the same spot as #1 on the other cap. Otherwise, the pre-marking won't help. AS LONG as you have the cylinder on TOP DEAD CENTER of the compression stroke, you can set everything else to match up./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gifIt isn't as tough as it sounds, actually, I have coached several Jeepers through the process by e-mail./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Tune-up time going to TR\'s upgrade on a 76\'

Since you will have the dist. out, don't forget to replace the springs. I know I've seen the part numbers somewhere on one of TeamRush's post.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Tune-up time going to TR\'s upgrade on a 76\'

It sounds like the distributor pulling part has been covered. If you can, take a look at a Jeep with a Duraspark distributor and make a note of how it is clocked. The easiest way is to look at how the vaccuum advance is positioned in relation to the block. Try to get yours in the same approximate location. That will help you keep the number one rotor tower where the factory wanted it, as the cap should be marked. The easiest way to tell if you have Prestolite is to look at the vaccuum advance. If it is made out of plastic you have Prestolite. You can also look at the rotor. The Duraspark dist has a wedge shaped rotor.
 
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