I am in the process of doing the same. I have used a JD2 manual and can get it set-up for Hydro for the same price.
I have never heard of the LowBuck one and it looks decent but, for that price who knows.

266.50 JD2 bender set-up for Hydro
Air/hydro ram - 120.00 from Max tools
1 die set from JD2 - 200.00

So for about the same price you can get a name brand bender with Hydro operation. And would be a hell of a lot easier to use. In regards to pumping the bottle, the JD2 would be foot pedal operated.

 

I know Lowbuck has a good reputation from other sources, so I'm not afraid of it. I'm sure its fine for occasional use, but I'd certainly prefer an air/hydro ram set-up.

So who/where is Max tools? I couldn't find anything on them. All of the rams I find are in the $300-400 range which makes the whole JD2 set-up closer to $900-1,000 with a stand vs. $475 for the Lowbuck. Of course, the JD2 would be preferable if I can get it for under $600.

 

The nice point about the JD2 is it can bend 180 degrees where the protools only can do 120's. Very helpful when building stingers, shock hoops, and other do das. I really like the JD2, the degree ring is worthless, but it makes great looking bends and is very easy to use. Tin Bender has an article on pirate 4x4 (bendin' 101) that is very helpful for a first timer.

 

I read on another board (AARGG) that the JD2 dies aren't hardened and can gall the tube if you don't use enough lube. They said that the Pro Tools dies work in the JD2 and are hardened better. I have the JD2 with a home built hydro conversion but haven't purchased any dies yet. I can't wait to start playing though.

 

JD2 -
Hardened vs not? Think about it!
The die does not move in relation to the tube, so how can it gall? Pure hype by the knock-offs!

The follower is the only part that moves along the tube, pressing the tube into the die. It's hardened on the JD2.
Make sure it's adjusted correctly and has no burrs. Very slightly chamfer the leading edge of the follower. You don't want a ramp there to funnel grit in, but you don't want a cutting edge either.

The galling is from dirt, rust, mill scale, grinding grit, shavings etc.
Clean the tube, die, follower, and your hands first - squeaky clean and bright - every time!
Use a powered wire brush to remove the mill scale. The mill scale will scrape off on the follower, roll up, and make scratches or gall marks.
Then a little lube to help the follower slide. I don't always remember the lube, but still get nice bends - with no galling.

Hydraulic would be nice - but pumping it would be a pain. You need a foot activated air/hydraulic pump to make it easy. But a long handle works well, cheap and fast. 7' of 1x2" square tube.

I like the degree wheel, yes, it's not totally accurate, but it shows when you are getting real close, then use an angle finder and a long guide.
The inaccuracy of the degree wheel is because it has to be set to 0 AFTER the tube is initially pressed into the die.
After initial set-up, give the handle a stout tug to seat the tube in the die - you can see the gap dissapear - then set the pointer to 0. You'll be within 2 degrees or less.

The only thing I don't like about it is it's hard to get multiple bends close together, you have to leave a short straight section in between. But I'm working on a modification to it so that problem is overcome.
Oops, and I don't like the price of the dies at $200 a crack either.

I haven't seen how the LowBuck bender works so I can't judge it. But I love their tubing notcher/nibbler - well worth the cost. It has to be modified to fit tube since it's pipe sized, but no biggie.
I absolutely hate my hole saw type notcher! I haven't tossed it -- yet, it may have some kind of use in the future - a paper weight?

 

do a search on Maxtools, or go to pirate 4x4 and do a search.

I just called tham again and you can get everything you need for 6 bills.

 

Allright, you guys have convinced me that its worth the extra $$$. I found Maxtools. You're right - $79.99 for an air/hydro cylinder. I do have one more question, though. They can't confirm what the stroke is. JD2 is adamant that it must be 14" to use with their hydro set up. He also says you can't use their hydro version manually since it doesn't have the same parts (that's why its roughly the same price). I'm wondering whether if the guys on Pirate who did this actually converted from manual to hydro or actually started with the hydro set-up. Any ideas? I'm going to investigate further and I'll let you know what I come up with.

 

They made there on brackets for the pump and got the manual bender.

 

JD2 bender from Vansant $266.50
2.5 diameter 24 inch throw ram from Northern Tool $115.00
Custom 1"o.d. 1/2"i.d. adapter for ram to bender $20.00
Custom hydraulic hoses and fluid from Car Quest $80.00
Pump and tank donated by friend
Frame made from stuff off the scrap pile

 

Looks good Darren, but does it bend tube?

Looks like that stand isn't as strong as the tube you're going to bend.

 

It looks stroung enough to me. Look what is behind the ram. The base does not have any stress on it from the bender, all the stress is on the square tube behind the ram. Nice setup, very easy to roll around the shop. Any idea on how far you can bend the tube before you need to retract the ram and move the pin in the die?

 

I can't see it in my picture, but I hope there's a good stout frame member connecting the uprights.
I really like the idea of portability. Seems like my stationary one is always in the way, or something's in it's way.

 

So far I just drink beer and watch it move in and out. I spent my "rat hole" money on a pile of brake parts for the Jeepster. The main spine is 2 1/2 inch 1/4 wall tubing. The frame was made with scrap from my scrap pile. I put casters on it and it rolls around nice. I debated about making it portable because from what I've read the dies have to be level to get multiple accurate bends. Then I read an article that said to measure the angle the dies are sitting at and reference all your bends to it. That made sense to me so portable it was. I don't know when I'll get around to buying dies. I want to get the Jeepster roadworthy first. It already goes, just can't stop it. And of cours the standard Jeepster wiring dilemas. A buddy of mine is letting me drive his Landcruiser with full width dana 60/14 bolt and 40 inch swampers. I've had it for 3 days now and I'm really getting the itch to start working again. Does anybody know where to get the brass blocks that brake lines connect to with a hole in it so you can bolt it down? You know what I'm talking about....

http://www.jeepster.org/bender.htm

 

yeah call skyjacker and tell them you ordered a set of there brake lines and you need the correct banjo fitting for ..XXXXX brake caliper. They should send them to you.

 

www.inlinetube.com
www.classictube.com

They might have something. I don't think I have ever seen the ones with the mounting hole sold in a parts store.