I want, I want. Anyone on this board splurged out the dollars for one yet?
Feedback at all?
Alf Lebowski the Dude.
Feedback at all?
Alf Lebowski the Dude.
Guest
G
looks sweet. I just got a Kicker 3 from OTT, it does the same thing but uses a Tracker automatic/5-speed
There is one quirk to that box.The U-joints on either end
go out of phase in low range.To get them back in phase you
have to get under the vehicle and verify proper alignment
before shifting back into high range.Probably this doesn't
create any vibration problems but I thought it was worth
noting.
go out of phase in low range.To get them back in phase you
have to get under the vehicle and verify proper alignment
before shifting back into high range.Probably this doesn't
create any vibration problems but I thought it was worth
noting.
G
Yeah, I can see that that would happen, but as there is a set of gears in the middle of the old jack shaft do you think it matters ?
Anyone found this?
Alf Lebowski.
Anyone found this?
Alf Lebowski.
Hhhehe, the stock junction between the tranny and transfer is a shaft. The rock block uses gears. Therefore, 1 rotation in, 2 rotations out. The joints are out of phase.
![Image]()
G
Yes guys, I can dig that the u j's are gonna be out of phase.
But will it make a difference seeing as there is a gearbox in the middle of the u J's ?
Surely the box will stop any oscillation ?
With the front and rear drive lines having a transfer case in between them, they don't have to be aligned.
Trail Tough, feel free to jump in here and promote your product.
Alfie
But will it make a difference seeing as there is a gearbox in the middle of the u J's ?
Surely the box will stop any oscillation ?
With the front and rear drive lines having a transfer case in between them, they don't have to be aligned.
Trail Tough, feel free to jump in here and promote your product.
Alfie
Alfie,
I'm not trying to nock the product,just making some
comment on one of it's design features.I'm sure that if the
phase thing created any vibes that it wouldn't be noticed
off road,perhaps only at highway speeds.
And the reason you don't have any phasing problems with the
stock front and rear driveshafts with a T-case in between
them is because each driveshaft has a SET of U-joints that
cancel out any vibrations.The Rock Block splits the set and
therefore in low range (1.8:1)they will go in and out of
phase.In high range (1:1)the joints will stay aligned.
Like I said before,just trying to make some techno small
talk.
![Image]()
I'm not trying to nock the product,just making some
comment on one of it's design features.I'm sure that if the
phase thing created any vibes that it wouldn't be noticed
off road,perhaps only at highway speeds.
And the reason you don't have any phasing problems with the
stock front and rear driveshafts with a T-case in between
them is because each driveshaft has a SET of U-joints that
cancel out any vibrations.The Rock Block splits the set and
therefore in low range (1.8:1)they will go in and out of
phase.In high range (1:1)the joints will stay aligned.
Like I said before,just trying to make some techno small
talk.
G
That's appreciated rollersk8
Not taking exception to it either.
But as it's an interesting point I thought it worth getting some feedback. Yeah?
For me to buy one will cost around $3500 so I would like to know all about it first. Know what I mean?
Alf Lebowski.
Not taking exception to it either.
But as it's an interesting point I thought it worth getting some feedback. Yeah?
For me to buy one will cost around $3500 so I would like to know all about it first. Know what I mean?
Alf Lebowski.
I'd like to add a positve note about the gear splitters
from TT and Spidertrax,you'd love the way they work.I've
been running 1.8 gears in front of my 4.16 Zook T-case for
3 years now and it's much nicer having 4 ranges to play
with instead having to drop from high all the way down to
lets say a 6:1 low.It really works out nice when you're
covering various types of terrain.The only draw back is
the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
![Image]()
from TT and Spidertrax,you'd love the way they work.I've
been running 1.8 gears in front of my 4.16 Zook T-case for
3 years now and it's much nicer having 4 ranges to play
with instead having to drop from high all the way down to
lets say a 6:1 low.It really works out nice when you're
covering various types of terrain.The only draw back is
the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
I'm not 100% positive about this but since it's very close to a straight line from the rear of the tranny to the input of the xfer case out-of-phase shouldn't make any difference at all. It's when there's an angle involved and the joints are not in phase there's a slight difference in rotational speed of the joints as they both pass through the angle. I read this somewhere but not sure I'm explaining it correctly...
![Image]()
In reply to:
The only draw back is
the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
[/ QUOTE ]
the Kicker 3 is $750, almost half the cost of the other units. Not bad considering the cost of some of the sami gear sets out there. I think its a good set-up for the guys running a 1.6, you can use the beefier tracker 5-speed with the heavier flywheel or the automatic. There is also the Kicker 2 which uses a toyota T-case, good for the guys with toyota axles because of the centered output. I think its pretty cool that we have all these gearing options now, when I got into these all there was was 4:1's, and the 4.89's were just coming out.![Image]()
Hi-
The points that Brad brought up are valid. In low range operation the ujoint phase would change continuously however, rotational speed is not enough to create any noteable vibration issues. In high range, however, when shifting from neutral to 1:1, the u-joints may phase at varying degrees - which can create varying degrees of vibration especially around 50 MPH. For a road trip, the visual alignment of the ujoints would ensure the best phase. The Rock Block has its advantages, as Brad mentioned, which are teriffic! Under these circumstances, however, I dont believe that it is the best choice for the daily commuter. It is much more appropriate for the serious off-road enthusiast who has a thorough understanding of these elements.
The points that Brad brought up are valid. In low range operation the ujoint phase would change continuously however, rotational speed is not enough to create any noteable vibration issues. In high range, however, when shifting from neutral to 1:1, the u-joints may phase at varying degrees - which can create varying degrees of vibration especially around 50 MPH. For a road trip, the visual alignment of the ujoints would ensure the best phase. The Rock Block has its advantages, as Brad mentioned, which are teriffic! Under these circumstances, however, I dont believe that it is the best choice for the daily commuter. It is much more appropriate for the serious off-road enthusiast who has a thorough understanding of these elements.
well that kinda stinks now
alot of us are still A DAILY DRIVER
and would like selectable gears
![Image]()
so now we have to change T/CASE gears i already have a GRS1 with stock R/P and 33's
whats the use of having the rock box if you can't take it out on the street sounds like double t/case would be way cheaper for trail only
heck what about the KLUNE-V
alot of us are still A DAILY DRIVER
and would like selectable gears
so now we have to change T/CASE gears i already have a GRS1 with stock R/P and 33's
whats the use of having the rock box if you can't take it out on the street sounds like double t/case would be way cheaper for trail only
heck what about the KLUNE-V
hmm I dont mind it being for a 4wd only vehicle , but what about when you are in an area like Moab and have decent length runs between trails ? Mine is not a daily driver but I drive it to the trailheads . If its not in phase what do you do ? I would assume you shift into neutral and align it by hand ?
where are other doubler options out there like OTT's Kicker 3 or the Spidertrax doubler that wouldnt have that issue, you just need a 1.6
you should be able to shift the rock block into neutral and put your trany in gear to rotate things into alignment. if one was so inclined with a couple of properly placed holes this should be able to be done from the drivers seat. maybe use some magnetic sheeting to cover the holes when not needed?
the intermediate shaft doesn’t run perfectly straight. it probably angles down about an inch. it would be really cool if some one were to figure out how to shim up the t case and down the trany to eliminate this. then it wouldn’t be an issue at all the only problem I see with this is distributer clearance?
the intermediate shaft doesn’t run perfectly straight. it probably angles down about an inch. it would be really cool if some one were to figure out how to shim up the t case and down the trany to eliminate this. then it wouldn’t be an issue at all the only problem I see with this is distributer clearance?
actually there are several options all have their pluses and their minuses
kicker 1 http://www.ottindustries.com/kicker1.htm
kicker 3 http://www.ottindustries.com/kicker3.htm
sky http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=190932
klune v http://www.rocky-road.com/klune.html
rock block http://www.trailtough.com/
thorax http://www.spidertrax.com/drivetrain_thx.htm
kicker 1 http://www.ottindustries.com/kicker1.htm
kicker 3 http://www.ottindustries.com/kicker3.htm
sky http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=190932
klune v http://www.rocky-road.com/klune.html
rock block http://www.trailtough.com/
thorax http://www.spidertrax.com/drivetrain_thx.htm
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