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Trouble shooting a gauge problem

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I have replaced the gauges on my jeep several time, gas and water temp. I could not figure out why they would fry. Well, I know that it is not the fuel sending unit, brand new. I do not know why the darn thing fries but it does everytime. The gauge works for a little while and then poof, needle falls, and smoke appears inside the gauge. Neither the water temp or the fuel gauge works. I have traced the power wire back to the point where they make three connections out of one, cheap asses. I have also checked the impedence at the gauge and it was fine. I do not know what the problem was but the jeep just started eating gauge one day. The body shop that replaced the gauges the last time might have wired them wrongm, not sure. I do not know which wire, pink or red, is located nearest the driver to make sure it is wired up proper. I am mainly concerned b/c I have ordered some new Autometer LFG's, silver, and I WILL NOT let them get damaged. If anyone has any tips let me know. The fuses never blow either, wierd huh. 1976, CJ-7. I will not be able to check this again until tomorrow evening, mountain time, so do not expect an immediate response.
THANX in ADVANCE

/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif 1976 CJ-7,CHEVY 350, 33'S, 3" LIFT, THAT COVERS MOST OF THE MAJOR STUFF /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
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Here's what I'd do:

1. Put a volt meter on the voltage connection that supplies the meter.
2. Start pulling fuses, one by one, untll the volt meter shows zero volts.
--now you've isolated the voltage going to the meter, if the wire has been "butchered" it may not be according to the schematics. There could be two feeds going to the harness. One of the feeds may have a huge non-standard fuse, or no fuse.
3. Check the amperage on the fuses. If the gauge fries then one of these possibilities are occuring:
--a. The gauge is acting as the circuit fuse, and cannot take the current passing through it.
--b. The fuses are by-passed, so they can't blow. Then resistance from the wire to the sender is goes very high, causing the current draw through the gauge, and frying the meter movement.

Start there and let us know what you're finding... several heads are better than one.

Good Jeepin'

Larry
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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif This is your lucky day! All you ever need to know about Jeep gauges is at this site:.....http://http:www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/gauges.htm Man.....are YOU lucky!/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
Quadra-Trac modified by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif transfer case team.
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Most likely it is the IVR or instrument voltage regulator. It's the little silver thingy on the back of the
cluster that looks like a circuit breaker. When these go bad either they stick in the open position which
means gauges won't work or they stick in the closed position which means full voltage, then poof go
your gauges/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif. The IVR has a set of contact points and a bimetal arm inside that causes it to
pulse very similar to a flasher unit for turn signals. I would test that and see if it is the problem. Just
a bit if trivia, the gauges you have are called thermoelectric. Gauges that don't use an IVR are generally
magnetic (for stock electric gauges).
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How exactly do you test an IVR?

/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif 1976 CJ-7,CHEVY 350, 33'S, 3" LIFT, THAT COVERS MOST OF THE MAJOR STUFF /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
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