Your understanding of the effects of lowering the T/C are correct.
Jim O'Brien
[email protected]
My jeep page
Jim O'Brien
[email protected]
My jeep page
Transfer case lowering
G
I'm looking into a 3" suspension lift for my CJ7 and see "transfer case lowering kits" advertised to reduce driveline angle. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you lower the transfer case and not the engine, wouldn't that result in the transfer case being angled lower in the rear, thus increasing the angle to the front driveshaft while decreasing the angle to the rear driveshaft. I have not seen one of these kits installed, but I'm sure a lot of you have them. Thanks for the enlightenment in advance.
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thats true, but the front driveshadft angle is not as steep as the rear because of where the output shaft on the x-fer case is and because it is longer.. most people would also prefer to have the better angle on the rear driveshaft because they use the rear so much more than the front. personally, i have never been fond of the lowering kits, it seems to me thatr the engine is designed to run at level, your floats will be hard to set, and i allways want my drivetrain up in the jeep, not hanging below it so it can get hung up on all the rocks and stumps
~~Elusive~~
it's sort of still a cj thingy....
~~Elusive~~
it's sort of still a cj thingy....
G
Ok, I have a question since I'm considering a 4" lift. Do you really need to drop the transfer case? What is the benefit aside from reducing the rear driveshaft angle? Is there a problem with vibration? I will still probably go with a 4" lift but I might try it without dropping the TC.
mine isn't dropped but my engine is mounted pretty low on the chassis and tilts towards the back to help improve the driveline angle. Yes, this is tough on the carb. I have seen stock intakes that let the carb sit level on engines that are tilted like mine, was interesting to see. On any lift, I'd start out by installing the lift kit and driving the jeep for awhile, then putting the tcase lowering kit on if you feel it's necessary (i.e. drive line vibration).
/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Big Ed
'88 YJ, 4" susp,3" body,33's,283 Chevy V8,TH350,4.11's,D30,D35c
/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Big Ed
'88 YJ, 4" susp,3" body,33's,283 Chevy V8,TH350,4.11's,D30,D35c
G
David, instead of lowering your xfercase put in a CV-joint rear driveshaft. Put shims between the springs and spring pad on the axle
so that the pinion lines up in a straight line to a point about 3" behind the xfercase rear output yoke. This is the same point as the rear
joint of the CV. This will cure the problem. I've had my CJ set up this way for 2 1/2 years with no vibration.
Gary
so that the pinion lines up in a straight line to a point about 3" behind the xfercase rear output yoke. This is the same point as the rear
joint of the CV. This will cure the problem. I've had my CJ set up this way for 2 1/2 years with no vibration.
Gary
You will need a lowering kit for the TC if you put 3" of lift on, or you will be replacing u-joint fairly regular, the vibration will drive you crazy between times. I have the lowering kit and I don't like them because of the loss in ground clearance, but it has been on for 5 years with no problems. To get around this the best way is to get a SYE kit and the CV style drive shaft, and maybe some shims for the rear axle. But I don't like shims either. For the 4" lift the angles on the 13" shaft will be so great that you may pop the u-joints within the first block of driving. With the 3"lift for the front shaft the angle is actually better with the lowering kit as the rear of the TC is dropped 1" bringing the drive line closer to level. This is just my 2 cents with a little experience thrown in here.
GP'n
GP'n
G
GP'n you have to keep in mind that his application is a CJ7 which has a much longer driveshaft than your YJ. My CJ5 actually has a longer driveshaft than yours. The CJ's also don't have a slip yoke to eliminate. I put a 3" lift on a friends CJ7 with no driveline mod's and there have been NO noticable vibrations.
G
Ok, with all having been said about the driveline... what happens to the cooling fan? If the engine is angled down in the rear, the bottom of the fan will be moved towards the radiator, right? How close does it get?
Another thing... If you drop the skidplate, from the drivers perspective the shift levers will be shorter that amount.
Can you go with a 2.5" lift and just avoid all of this by not dropping the TC? I'm looking to fit 33s with no rubbing in my '85 CJ7?
Another thing... If you drop the skidplate, from the drivers perspective the shift levers will be shorter that amount.
Can you go with a 2.5" lift and just avoid all of this by not dropping the TC? I'm looking to fit 33s with no rubbing in my '85 CJ7?
G
Thump, I doubt you can run 33's with just a 2.5" lift. I have an 86CJ7 with a 3" spring lift and 1" longer shackles and my 32's still rub slightly.
You'd have to go 4" springs or add a body lift with 2.5" springs. Like my earlier post said, do the spring lift you need and use a CV-joint
rear driveshaft without lowering the xfercase.
Gary
You'd have to go 4" springs or add a body lift with 2.5" springs. Like my earlier post said, do the spring lift you need and use a CV-joint
rear driveshaft without lowering the xfercase.
Gary
Snowtow
Point well taken,,,,I forget not all Jeeps are YJ's....... Yes the radiator does set closer on some CJ's vs the YJ and the drive shaft is a little longer on most. The pesky slip yoke hadn't been added to hender your efforts as yet either.
GP'n
Point well taken,,,,I forget not all Jeeps are YJ's....... Yes the radiator does set closer on some CJ's vs the YJ and the drive shaft is a little longer on most. The pesky slip yoke hadn't been added to hender your efforts as yet either.
GP'n
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