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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to remove the windsheild, and its hinges, the torx bolts wont budge, Ive been soaking them in penetrant oil for over a week ( every day or so a squirt)
and I tapped the torz bit in the head with a hammer, I gave it a little twist ( 10 inch 3/8 ratchet handle) and the Torx bit just twisted like a rope...

if unscrewing them isnt going to work, should i drill them out? ( Ive had bad experiences with EZ outs...) I can drill and remove the hinges, but what do I do with the rest of the nit??

whats on the backside of these? captive welded nuts in the windshield and tub right???

jeeeze, im open to all ideas these type things make me want a BFH and a Jeep Swallowing scrap dumpster...




ozarkjeep
1977 CJ5 looking for a Hard top near NW Arkansas!
 
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Had the same problem with the door hinges -- solved it the old fashioned way -- used a torch. I BROKE two torx bits with a ratchet before I decided to sacrifice the paint.

BTW, it was hard (I was MAD) not to mash the oxy level & burn the bleeps out.

Seriously, you could just use a propane torch, warm 'em up, break 'em loose.

'80 CJ7
'84 CJ7
'76 Scout
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
so heat them up and then try a NEW torx bit??

Ill try that, but i must admit Im pretty sketpical..man these are siezed..
Ill try it tomorow, and post the results!

thanks!

ozarkjeep
1977 CJ5 looking for a Hard top near NW Arkansas!
 
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I have had some luck using an air impact gun. Heat works wonders in places that can take it, but in some places you just can't heat them up. Try tightening a little bit to see if they break free, keep going forward then reverse, this usually works. On bolts that aren't countersunk, if I strip the torx bolt, I cut a slot and use a large straight tip and the impact. If all else fails, I grind off the head and drill them out, but its hard to stay in the center of the bolt all the way through. Start with a small bit and work your way up, each time try the easy out. If that doesn't work I drill out to the tap size and finish off with a tap. When I put back together I use liberal amounts of anti-seize. I know they suck, but they do have a nice clean appearance,and if they were coated from the factory then they wouldn't be so bad .
CTjeepnut

 
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I went through this same hassle with the torx on my jeep. Now, whenever I change anything that is held on with torx the first thing I do after removing the torx is throw them as far as humanly possible. Then I go and find them and throw them a bit further. I put a new bumper and ended up torching the bolts out after spending 5 hours drilling one (yes ONE) bolt out. It was an underpowered drill, but yeesh. I drilled out half the bolts that held my windshield hinges on, which wasn't too bad. about :15 a hinge and I didn't do any surrounding damage. I don't own a torch, so that was what I had to use.
On your use of penetrating oil, I've found that simply squirting oil on does almost nothing becuase the oil evaporates before it penetrates. When I was around 8 my dad had to have something on the bottom of the suburban replaced and the mechanic wrapped the part in a towl, saturated it with liquid wrench then wrapped it in seran wrap and let it sit for a day or two. I found that technique to be pretty handy. Just my .02

MudFlap 87 YJ POS!!
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif If you decide to go the heat route, there are some things to keep in mind. First, use a small flame and heat OVER TIME. You want to heat the bolt, and not the surroundings, so focus the heat only on the bolt, and do it for a long enough time that the whole stem is cherry red. THEN, don't do anything till it is stone cold again. The idea is to heat and swell the bolt so it expands and crushes the rust....then cools and shrinks back FARTHER THAN IT WAS. Material which is in a confined space will do that. It cannot expand freely, so it compacts and then when cooled is slightly smaller....like casting shrinkage at the foundry. FINALLY, get a new Snap-On Tork bit, and go back and forth till you can finally get a revolution and then on out. Works every time. I have found that I can use "lesser" tools for everything but hex drivers and tork drivers, for that there is no tool but Snap-On./wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless I've made 'em up myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Lots of advice on this one!!! I guess I dont have the only Jeep with Torx bolts...

I plan to first try heating and tightening then removing...

second Ill drill the heads of the little $*^%#@#^ things, try to remove whats left, or grind em flush drill and re tap..

I have no plans to reuse ANY TORX fasteners on this vehicle...I wan to meet the Guy named TORX... Ive got some Ideas for him, and Id like to introduce him to MR. Robinson...( woodworkers should follow this..)

CJdave, If I could afford a Snap on Torx bit id pay somebody else to remove the bolts!!! serioulsy, ill check my local pawn shops in the morning and try to find some quality torx bits...

thanks for all the help..Ill be updating this thread, since its my personal quest right now...



ozarkjeep
1977 CJ5 looking for a Hard top near NW Arkansas!
 
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Be careful when using heat as there is caulking, body seam sealer,inside on the nuts, you don't want to get a fire started!!!!
Steve

Mopar360yj
87yj+20,74CHR.030360,SOA,35BFGATs,46RH,241DHD,
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Besides the heat why has'nt any body mentioned an "impact driver"
"WHACK" of a hammer with the "POWER" of an impact.
CJ DAVE'S right there isnosubstitute for a "snappy" tool!

85'CJ7 258 4" runnin33's
 
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I got you all beat...I was trying to take down my windshield and the torx bolt that holds the driver side rollbar to the windshield...well I snapped the nut off that was welded inside the windshield frame...anyone know how to get that out?? I just have a nice loose torx bolt with NO IDEA how to get it out.

absolutjeep
http://members.tripod.com/iluvjeeps
 

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i allways remove torx the same way
step 1 sharpen chisel
step 2 hit the side of the torx with the chisel(air chisel maybe?)
step 3 replace the torx with real bolts

 

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Try a hammer blow impact driver, u can use a torx for 3/8 drive socket wrench to fit the driver. I was having similar problems on my vehicle , bought one of the drivers at O'rielly's auto parts for 10.00 ,commenced to [email protected] on them bolts. worked great for me, I removed about 15 bolts that were veeery stubborn.(broke 3 tools before i bought the driver)

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I got a better quality Torx Bit today and tried again, got several more out, one is still pretty stubborn, but now i see how short and small diameter those little buggers are...

Ill use a die grinder to cut a slot in the stubborn one and get it out with an impact driver...

somedays I can try and try, and it never works, other days I dont even think about it and things happen like a finely made clock work...why is that??

oh well, thanks everybody for the help....



ozarkjeep
1977 CJ5 looking for a Hard top near NW Arkansas!
 
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OK Arkcansawyer -
Now that you've got them out rember to put them back only with anti-sieze compound. There really is nothing wrong with Torx. They are light years ahead of socket head or allen bolts and that is what it would be if not for 'Mr. Torx'. The problem is that the Jeep parts are galvanized and have started to do the thing they were designed for and that is start to oxidize the zinc instead of the ferrous metals (steel). The threads are fouled with zinc oxide and like iron oxide it occupies more space than the unoxidized original metal. Plus it is heavily 'attached' to both sets of threads. Kinda like a super LocTite! This simply the nature of the things. The mistake made is by the factory in not using some type of thread lube but then they don't have to worry about taking them apart 5 or 10 or 15 years down the road. Use Torx heads when going back. Just do it better than the factory. A can of anti-sieze should last you for many years and only costs a few dollars. I am glad you got them out and am glad you asked on this board about how to do it because I learned some more new stuff.
Keep us posted on the 'back together'.
sln

 

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Take it from a guy who's spent some years in an auto assembly plant. The reason they use Torx is so they can do as little work as possible when putting things together. They could care less about ever taking apart again. I've been in "parts control" for 11 years now. Anybody care to guess how many times they've shut the line down because they're "out" of one fastener or another, only to have one of us go out there and pick up the nice soft floor mats that make their feet feel better and show them where the several thousand pieces that are "missing" might have gone?

Loose nut behind the wheel
Another right-wing conservative.....
Born and raised in Jeep-Town
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I appreciate your high opinion of these fasteners, your more than welcome to have all of these!!! :

im going back with a different type of screw!!

Did you say these hinges were galvanized? I hope not!! I was planning to weld one back together to save some coin ( it broke at the round part, lack or lubrication i guess)

I was thinking of getting stainless fasteners with the same tapered head, maybe phillips, and gobbing them with antiseize also...

ozarkjeep
1977 CJ5 looking for a Hard top near NW Arkansas!
 
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Well Ozark, when it comes to countersunk screws there's either philips, allen, slotted or torx. A torx bolt with anti-seize will give you less trouble than all the others. I re-use all my torx bolts, just make sure to coat them.
CTjeepnut

 

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Go for the stainless hinges too, I change everything I can to stainless, even thinking about that stainless
frame. The Torx are a lot better than allen or phillips. (So how come Torx gets capitalized but allen and
phillips don't?)

As for giving away the Torx, you Arkies seem to have recently developed a habit of making your
problems into our problems. Look in the White House, couldn't you have done SOMETHING with him
besides giving him to us? /wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif
 
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The ONLY good thing about Klinton is he makes people like me (originally from Georgia) feel better about Carter.

John

'80 CJ7
'84 CJ7
'76 Scout
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Jimmy or Billy? Yeah, you were proud of him when he first got in there, I remember the big peanut with
the toothy, silly smile.

 
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