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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Abe Lincoln moonguy.

Ok, now on to the question... I've had my encounters with Torx bolts in the past... always a little heat and they would come right out. Not these guys!

Im trying to remove my rollbar and on the very first bolt I snapped the cheap torx bit. I have a nice set of bits from Sears but unfortunately Im missing the proper size.

Is there a way to easily remove these bolts. Im certianly not going to reuse them so it doesnt matter if I destroy them in the process....I just want them out. Any ideas?

Regards,

Larry 85CJ7,350TBI,T19
http://www.treadlightly.org
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif You could try my heat-shrink technique....that's where you put heat into the Trox bolt with a long, slow process, heating it from top to bottom till it's cherry red. Then go away and do something else till it is back to ambient temp. Then get the socket in there with an impact wrench not set too high so as to strip out, but something that will rattle the heck out of it. Then turn up the torque and try to back it out. The theory is that the bolt will expand and crush the rust, and because it is restricted somewhat in expansion, it will compress as if forged, and when cooling, will shrink back farther than it was. The mistake is when guys try to heat and remove hot. I am dispatching a crack team of moonguys/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif to assist you. Find them some rooms at the Ramada Inn.

CJDave
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My experience with this problem was solved as follows:
Apply a good quality penetrant. Weld 3/4 nuts to the heads of the torx bolts. The process of heating/shrinking will enable
you to loosen the bolts. Use a 1/2 in drive breaker bar and or an air wrench. CAUTION...make sure the weld is a good one
or bye bye knuckles! Good Luck! jdelg 86CJ7

 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif OOOOwwww.....that's the best idea yet. That is exactly how we get broken studs out....by welding a nut on top. Use a wire welder, and get in there and really bear down with lots of heat. THEN....go do something else while the bolt shrinks back to ambient temp. That is a darn good idea, Larry.....that'll do the trick!/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif

CJDave
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dave,

I know thats a good idea. In fact I had already mentioned to LEVE late last night about the 'welding nut on bolt head' trick I had heard months ago.... only problem is I dont have a welder and dont know how to weld. Starting to look like the time to solve those two areas.

Thanks,

Larry

Larry 85CJ7,350TBI,T19
http://www.treadlightly.org
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif A nice Millermatic would be perfect.....and they will run on a 20 AMP breaker. If you want to come up here in the pines I will teach you how to weld in one day. All you need bring is a helmet so I can watch you with mine. I have a Miller 35. I have plenty of bolts for you to practice welding nuts on. /wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif

CJDave
 

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Why not do it the easy way, make it easier for next time AND add some strength in the process? Drill
the bolt out, grind or chisel it off from bottom or top. When you get ready to put the rollbar back in, cut
1/4" thick backing plates the size of the plates on the feet of the rollbar and drill to match the hole pattern.
Just sandwich the body between the rollbar and the backing plate on the back using grade 8 bolts.
It'll be a lot stronger mount than just nut plates or washers on the back.



 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got em out rather easily. I just needed to take a break and revisit the situation the next day.

Ingredients:
1 BFH
1 Propane Torch
1 Breaker Bar
1 Sears #45 Torx Socket
and a good dash of elbow grease ....viola, No Problemo!

Thanks for all the excellent suggestions and Dave... after pricing the Millermatics I have decided there is no need to take lessons from you. I'll just pay someone to weld for me!

Regards,

Larry 85CJ7,350TBI,T19
http://www.treadlightly.org
 
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