I'd like to hear a permanent solution for this one. Mine has gone from black to gray.

The color can be "restored." I have done it. I used Dekswood by Flood to clean the top. Its actually designed for cleaning wood decks, but the original bottles had fiberglass cleaning applications. Then I want to say I used Penetrol by the same company to brighten the finish... but I'm not so sure. When I was done, it looked brand new!!! Lasted only a few months though. A permanent solution would be nice.

 

Guys- Its time to step over to the dark side... Spend twenty bucks on masking tape and Krylon. Come on. Just try it. If don't like it try a different color. I leave the masking tape on for a week to make sure I like the color. I'm going to change from Walmart Dark Bronze to Rustolium Bronze. That's right. I'm going UPTOWN!!!

 

Shhh.... don't say it! I "quit" the big W a year ago.

No.. n-not.. g-going.. b-back

 

i'm prety sure rhinoe liner will gove you that textured look and keep its color. it'll make the lid a bit heavier though

 

Go to a decent outbody/paint shop and get a quote. my guess is it is a standard paint, just not a clearcoat/gloss type of application, something more semi-gloss or semi-flat. They probably just rough the top and shoot it. The darker colors will fade more quickly than lighter.

 

Reptillikus,
You're talking about your camper shell fading? I thought the color of the fiberglass wasn't painted on, it was just that color. Mine's white and I don't think its faded at all (Then again I've only owned the truck for 9 months and it's 19).

Hope you can find a solution.
Ryan

 

I've got a scratch in mine. It's white underneath! Unless the fiberglass was molded with colored dies in it, then it would likely be a white, clear, or cream color based on the epoxies used in construction.

 

I've heard that Future floor wax works to restore the shell. I have never done it though. NORM

 

I contacted a few car care product manufacturers last year to see if they made anything for protecting the paint on Bronco/Blazer fiberglass tops...the answer is "No".

Anything you put on it is going to make it shiny, and IMO that looks wrong. I'm going to wait until mine starts to look bad, then have it re-shot in the factory flat-black. I'm in sunny Southern California and mine looks like it'll hang a few more years (been 6 already).

 

The krylon does work takes about 6 cans to get good coverage. I used satin black, and It turned out great. Did mine last summer while it was topless and it hasn't started to fade back again yet, but even if it does you are only out 20bucks!

 

Hmm, i hadnt thought about a body shop, but i need to get fender work (damn rust) so maybe ill get a quote then...
I didnt think about krylon, that might work, and its mostly the top of it thats fading (near the edges), so it probabaly wouldnt be that noticeable, either.

 

Awww! Just cut it! You will be glad you did. lol NORM

 

i was contemplating it, but it might be to late to put on cutouts (at least on one side), which is what id want to do if i cut it...maybe, just maybe, but one side is getting kind of bad......damn winter and its salty roads!!!!

 

just goto jeffs bronco graveyard and order the whole new quarters and put them on

thats what I plan to do some day.........

http://www.mailordercentral.com/broncograveyard/images/8STEREARQUARTERR.JPG

 

New quarters are a lot of work, but its worth it!

I've finished the write up for my homemade fiberglass repair panel. When I get a chance, I'll write up my quarter panel replacement. They, along with other projects will be going on my new site. I'll post a separate thread on it in a bit...

 

Sorry RepT. I had to move back to Wash. DC area a few years back with the juice (actually went to high school back there early 80's), so I know about what they use on the roads. Rust is relentless. The rear quarter wheel wells have a lip that is usually attacked. Have to constantly clean out all the lip areas.

OR Move West RepT. where you can roam with your truck at will and they only use small volcanic rock (and some possible unknow chemicals that at least don't cause rust). Every so often, just replace your windshield and repaint the front!

 

volcanic rock, huh?
once upon a time i was contemplating those fiberglass fenders from autofab, therye nice, opened up real big, and pre-flared, but id have to modify the front end, cause theyre designed for the 92-96 nose, and i just dont feel like doing that to the front, since only the rear needs work....

 

Is is that rusted where you can't get the regular, like bushwhacker flares to cover? If you think it might buy'em now, and get the surgery done, before it is too late. And get some quarts of that black anti-rust stuff just to make sure that disease is in check. How's the underside look? Frame?

 

frame aint that bad, its got a couple spots that arent so hot, but those arent critical areas. The worst was my skid plate, but the tank and plate have since been changed.
The rear driverside fender has an exposed spot smaller than a dime, but the passenger side is where the carnage is....
it extends up to about where the flared edge stops, and runs about 8" at most from left to right, i guess. Its eaten straight thru there....
I might have a pic somewhere.....

 

the only close up of the fender is from about a year ago, and its not great, but this is an idea.
plus, its alot worse now....

 

You call that rust?

HA!... I'll show you RUST...

 

TOPS FADING???? Is the top made outta fiber glass??? YES!!! Body shops deal mainly in METAL!!! BUT, BOATS are almost ALL fiberglass. Cruise on down to your local marina supply (Boats US comes to mind...) and check out the chemicals there. While I've never used it on a bronco top, the bronc tops should be gelcoated in, in which case any gel coat protectant will do. We usta use this stuff on the offshore fishing boats. Works wonders. They make stuff that works like rubbing compound, wax, etc, made ESPECIALLY for fiberglass.

 

haha
like i said, thats an old pic, from before the last 2 winters
the salt ate alot more since then, but i dont have any newer pics that show it. I need to find out exactly how much metal is removed when installing cut-outs on that year so ill know if i need to do any repairs or not....