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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had the Dauntless rebuilt long before I discovered this BB. Have never driven the jeepster and am on the homestretch of a ground up conversion of a standard hardtop to a Deluxe plus. Intending to use as a weekend driver and trail cruiser, no hard core stuff. Buddy at the time of rebuild tried to talk me into big block horsepower saying "you can never have enough". Not knowing that the Dauntless was the first American production engine to have more footpounds of torque than cubic inches, I opted to have a mild Comp cam put in at the machine shop. When I started the engine forthe first time a couple of weeks ago, it took me a while to remember that I had put in the cam and that that would account for the rough idle that I couldn't seem to dial in. Alas, I also had water dripping out of the exhaust manifold and found out that one my new rebuilt heads had a crack in the inside crossover. This brings me to the point. Now that the engine is open again, this would be my last chance for hopefully a good long while to consider going back to a stock cam. Running a t-14 trans, I don.t want to be plagued by poor idle while tooling the trails. On the other hand, would this be my "passing gear" on the freeway? Opinions, please.


Bruce
'67 hardtop,
will run in '01!
 

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the cam might be good for the street but I bet the stock one puts out more torque at lower rpms which is what one wants when jeeping. I once built a 225 using kenny bell items and found that it all kicked in around 3500 rpm so i tore down the motor and went back to stock stuff. what you are asking is basicly a personal choice.

AJC founder and president
 

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My personal dislike for the Buick V6 design is the non-adjustable valve train. Once the heads have been milled or surfaced the rocker arm geometry is affected. A stock cam, or cam that is nearly stock lift will be more tolerant to the slight change in rocker arm geometry once the heads have been milled or surfaced.

My personal choice for a 225 RV cam would be .410 lift intake, .410 lift exhaust. I would have both intake and exhaust lobe centerline on 110 degrees. For comparison the OEM replacement cam sold by Perfect Circle (DANA Corp.) is .402 lift intake, .390 lift exhaust with both intake and exhaust lobe centerline on 112 degrees.

The 110 degrees of lobe centerline will help with low RPM torque. The extra lift with both intake and exhaust will help with mid RPM perfromance. I'd also recommend using a a 390 CFM 4 barrel carburetor, and dual exhaust system with the cam profile I describe.
dave

 

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I'd reccomend a Sealed Power stock replacement cam. Tried RV grinds on my last three motors. Went back to a Sealed Power stock replacement cam on the last two and gained lots more power in the usable range that we normally operate in.

Tim
'66 Jeepster Commando w/Buick 252/4.1L V-6
'70 Wagoneer w/Buick 350 V-8
'76 Wagoneer w/AMC 401 V-8 (sold)
 

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Dave - Any idea what the specs are on a bone stock original, "original" cam installed by GM when the 225 was new? Probably Duntov?
I've been trying to find out unsuccessfully.
The only avail specs are for "performance", emissions, or RV aftermarket replacements.

Called a few places, all I get is their "bull" that they know more than GM did or anyone else and their junk is better - and nobody sane wants high torque at low RPM.

My list of idiots that I'll never patronize again is getting longer by the minute.

Thanks



98% is Understanding it
"Don't Fix Unless Broke"
 

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When I had my 225 rebuilt recently, I had a new stock replacement cam from NAPA installed (made by Perfect Circle, I believe). I am very happy with it. Pulls from a stop quite nicely, runs at sub-idle speeds without a problem, and revs easily to where I need it (maybe 4200 max). I am using stock Rochester 2-barrel, and stock intake and exhaust manifolds.

David Goodrich
'67 Jeepster Commando
225, Saginaw 4-Speed, D44 w/Powrlock, 2" rear add-a-leaf, 33 x 9.5 (uncut fenders)
 

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Sorry RRich,
I only have the camshaft specifications from my Perfect Circle engine parts catalog. I will say this, Perfect Circle is the only engine parts manufacture that I know of that makes the original "Police Engine" camshafts. It's my personal opinion, that the Perfect Circle OEM camshaft is as close as it gets to any OEM camshaft grind.
dave

PS, the camshaft profile I recommend for a Buick 225 would have to be custom ground. I like camshafts that have equal amount of lift for both intake and exhaust. I like a camshaft that has a close centerline on lobe spacing. Most mild RV performance camshaft from Competition Cams will have equal lift for both intake and exhaust, and have a close centerline on lobe spacing. I must confess, most my engine building experience is based on what works good for a Small Block Chevy. Individual results will vary with a Buick V6 when modified with proven Small Block Chevy performance technology.

 

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JJerryT has a "thumper" cam, headers, Offy intake, and Holley 4B on his 225. Toad & I were fortunate enough to ride with Jerry on the Sat. trailride. That rascal had gobs of power and I don't think he actually romped it. Bottom end didn't seem that bad. Sold me on keeping the V6....

Caver Dave
'68 Jeepster SW
225 & 3spd
Vintage Jeeps(ters) have Character,
new Jeeps just have payments.
 
G

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the input guys. I will find out specifically what the grind is on the Comp 63-234-4 cam that I have in there now, and find out if there's a difference between Perfect Circle and Sealed Power. I'm looking for good smooth full range performance, and trying to make it something the wife will feel comfortable driving too. Sooo, it looks like I'll do the tear down while I'm putting bed liner in the tub this weekend and getting it ready to put back on the frame! Hopefully I can replace the cam without having to pull the engine out of the frame.

Bruce
'67 hardtop,
will run in '01!
 

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If you've still got the front clip off it'll be easy, OK, not easy, "less worse." Actually the fenders help give you something to lean on.
The intake has to come off and the front end of the engine - time cover etc. The cam slides right out the front, after all the lifters are removed. So the radiator and grill have to be gone.
Make sure each pushrod and lifter goes back in the same position when you reassemble it, unless you are replacing them too. Not a bad idea to use new lifters on a new cam.
Grease everything with tons of graphite assembly lube.
After it's assembled but before you put the distributor back in, pre oil the system by using a drill to spin the oil pump shaft till you get plenty of oil pressure (CW.) Use a big screwdriver shank or flattened rod as your tool. Slip a piece of hose over it to keep it in place on the shaft.

Lots of Graphite assy lube and pre-oiling is important to keep the cam from going away fast - especially with used lifters.



98% is Understanding it
"Don't Fix Unless Broke"
 

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Thanks for your input Dave -

The reason I'm curious is I'm "just before" building a super crawler - It'll look like a Jeepster - sort of - but super light.
I want to use an odd fire 225 as the powerplant. I'll probably get a cam custom ground for super low end performance, I don't really care much about RPM over 1500, but I want 1 million pounds of torque at 100 RPM! Or as close as possible.

Hmmm, that sounds more like an electric motor, max torque at 0 RPM.

Comparing the specs from the "RV" and racing cams vs stock shows what direction is needed for low end "Grunt."

A few years ago I said "no more project cars, no more race cars, no more buggies -- bone stock stuff only." Looks like I'm coming out of retirement. It's the fault of this board, and from attending a few races recently. I guess the final kicker was 2 weeks ago. I took a little "drive" in a performance buggy down a dry wash near my place.
I guess once it's in your blood you can't leave it, even for an old fart like me. I doubt my weak heart can take the excitement of the high speeds, so I guess I'll just have to compete by crawling over things that can't be climbed.

Oh well.


98% is Understanding it
"Don't Fix Unless Broke"
 
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