Re: tarded

I read it as 4 degrees ATDC - wierd, but that's what it looks like from here. Then it looks like you're supposed to move it back toward 0, but they don't say how long to run it or what the visual indications of detonation are. BTW "Detonation" is more commonly called "knock", also "preignition", "dieseling", and sometimes (in model airplane/car engines) "2-cycling". I know it can burn thru pistons, and crack wrist pins, conn rods, heads, & blocks, and it causes and is caused by the engine running hot. Haynes has some good spark plug pics & descriptions - my old one has color photos inside the back cover, but I have seen B&W photos in the routine maintenance chapter for other vehicles, so the new ones may have it there. It says detonation results in cracked or chipped tip insulators. Haynes' recommendations on that page are pitifully vague, but I know it's often caused by advanced timing (obviously), lean mix, overheated engine, poor gas, and high compression.

Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L

Build it; Don't buy it...

 

Re: tarded

Nnnoah..It isnt gonna run at 4Atdc, they mean retard it 4 degrees from what you have been running at...

1980 Bronco 2001 Top Truck Challange Dude !!!!...Also Proud Owner of a 68' Firebird Convertible, with a "gulp" 460 :O)..69 Trans Am

 

Re: tarded

I called their tech # but can never get through. I'm thinking about just keeping the coil and not the muli-spark/rev limiter module. I'm gonna try that combo and see if it runs different.--thanks

Backyard Builder-If I ain't drivin it I'm under it!

 

Re: tarded

Well I put it at 6 degrees BTDC and checked the plugs. doesn't look like any problems. Still is lacking power. The plugs i had in were split fire the electrodes were real red. I pulled the out checked the gap and it's good-.44
I bought some Accel non- resistive plugs and gapped them at .44 also put them in and still did not notice the difference. I'm gonna see if It's throwing any codes.-BOB

Backyard Builder-If I ain't drivin it I'm under it!

 

Re: tarded

Try bumping it back to 10 btdc and seeing what they look like.

Havack!

This is FORD country. On a quite night yu can hear a Chevy rust.

 

Re: tarded

.44? You must be using a VERY high voltage coil

It's a multi-purpose passenger vehicle and it eats SUVs for breakfast...get it straight!

Muddybronco

 

Re: tarded

Stock '93 calls for .54!

Havack!

This is FORD country. On a quite night yu can hear a Chevy rust.

 

Re: tarded

half an inch of gap? that seems like an awfully large gap to me. my sources say .044" and that's what i use.

It's a multi-purpose passenger vehicle and it eats SUVs for breakfast...get it straight!

Muddybronco

 

Order of magnitude

muddy, you know it was either a typo or a mistake./wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif You can't run a gap that big with any coil - the pistons would close it up for you./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L

Build it; Don't buy it...

 

Re: Order of magnitude

yeah, i was trying to be a smartass but it didn't work very well

It's a multi-purpose passenger vehicle and it eats SUVs for breakfast...get it straight!

Muddybronco

 

Re: tarded

So I forgot a very important 0(.054). Oops!

Havack!

This is FORD country. On a quite night yu can hear a Chevy rust.

 

Re: tarded

Well I pulled a lot of codes 22 - 32 - 85 - 95 - 96. I checked out the haynes bible and don't understand what is wrong. The engine I put in was a 1996 5.8l Now I had to go with the speed density system cause, ran out of $$$ and not too good with rewiring. I think that since this engine was set up for mass air that that has something to do with it. It runs O. K. but it should have more power (Torque) than it does. Could maybe be the gearing?? I'm running 31". Not that much difference.

Backyard Builder-If I ain't drivin it I'm under it!

 

Codes

I think you have a bad vacuum leak or you didn't connect any of the lines.

22 - MAP out of range
32 - no EGR control
85 - Canister Purge failure
95 - {unknown - something with the smog pump}
96 - Thermactor air system inoperative {that's the smog pump}

All of this says none of your vacuum lines are working, or you have some wiring problems.

Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L

Build it; Don't buy it...

 

Re: Codes

I need to see a 1990 bronco with a 5.8 to see if I have something messed up I tried to follow the 1996 diagram but it is totally different. It's set up for mass air and the 90 is speed density. I should have bought an engine that was from my year. But too late. -BOB

Backyard Builder-If I ain't drivin it I'm under it!

 

Vacuum map

Any EFI engine with a MAP sensor will have the same routing that you need. There are slight differences in the physical locations of the components, but the connections are the same. Check the ? Vacuum??? thread in the Ford truck forum started by CJ7JeepOffRoad.

Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L

Build it; Don't buy it...

 

Re: Vacuum map

Hey steve,
I have the vaccum routing from my 302 still on the truck and I went by that but I'm not getting any vaccum to the EGR I have all new silicone vaccum line on the whole truck, did that when I put the 5.8L in. I did notice that this 96' motor only had on 1 TAD(or TAB)solenoid. I'm not sure which it is, but there is only 1 on the 96' motor and 2 on the 90' motor. Also the 90' wire harness (which I am using has connections for TAD and TAB so I put another solenoid on and still nothing.) I think that's because the 96' is setup for mass air. I'm gonna continue to check this out.

Backyard Builder-If I ain't drivin it I'm under it!

 

Re: Vacuum map

Check the wiring from the EVP (white sensor on the EGR) to the EEC and from the EEC to the EVR (slightly bigger solenoid than TAB & TAD). Then check the vacuum lines from the reservoir (coffee can on the pass wheelwell) to the EVR to the EGR. What codes is the EEC setting? If you're using all the '90 wiring, sensors, & solenoids, then there's nothing MAF about this engine and you can forget all that. Think of it as a new '90 MAP and diagnose it that way.

Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L

Build it; Don't buy it...

 

Re: timing

Well, I checked my vaccum and I,m getting vaccum to the EVR and getting vaccum to the EGR now! not sure why or how but the EGR is working but still unable to get vaccum to the thermactor or what ever the device is that injects air into the manifolds. I'm not sure if i am getting power to the TAD & TAB but I am getting vaccum to them but I think they are bad cause I'm not getting vaccum from them. I know the EEC grounds Them to energize them but not sure how to check that. Also problem #2 When i tried to check my timing today I hooked the light up and pulled the SPOUT and the timing mark was bouncing around I couldn't get it to stay still. I could feel and see the engine shake a little when it did it but can't quite figure out the problem. This is definitely my loss of power problem. PLease Help !! The engine only has about 7000 miles on it. Could it still need new timing chain and gears??

Backyard Builder-If I ain't drivin it I'm under it!

 

Re: timing

I was thinking "timing chain & gears" before I read it at the end of your post - cut the engine off, pull the cap, & turn the crank forward until the rotor turns. Then turn the crank backward (notice how many degrees) until the rotor barely moves & see how much slop you have. Also, grab the rotor & see if there's any slop on the top of the dist. I don't remember what year you have, but if there's NO vacuum advance on the dist, the rotor shouldn't turn AT ALL in relation to the dist shaft. You might pull it to see how the gear looks, and check the cap to see if it's wiggly.

You can check those vacuum relays by grounding them with the key on to force them to work - I think Haynes gives a procedure, but use your MityVac.

The "thermactor" is the catalytic converter. The air pump (smog pump) supplies air to it, but neither has a vacuum line. The TAB (Therm. Air Bypass relay) & TAD (Therm. Air Diverter relay) send vacuum to the bypass & diverter valves, which are often integrated as a unit. They control the airflow to the exhaust ports of the heads & to the cats. If the TAB & TAD aren't working, the valves won't show any vacuum.

Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L

Build it; Don't buy it...

 

Re: timing

The distributor is a rebuilt one and all plugs and wires and cap is new. No vaccum advance on it it's a 1990.The TAD TAB must not be working cause i'm not getting any vaccum at all.

Backyard Builder-If I ain't drivin it I'm under it!

 

Re: timing

That reminds me, I still need to put in a new vac line on my divertor valve (i think it's that one), it's been disconnected for almost 2 years now It was never a priority b/c it didn't throw a code but I guess it's there for a reason. Where could I get a new line for that?

It's a multi-purpose passenger vehicle and it eats SUVs for breakfast...get it straight!

Muddybronco

 

Re: timing

I got my vac lines from work we have clear silicone lines. woorks good. I'd say any autoparts store though.

Backyard Builder-If I ain't drivin it I'm under it!

 

Re: timing

Ford will sell you the hard plastic line for $1.80 a foot.

Havack!

This is FORD country. On a quite night yu can hear a Chevy rust.

 

Re: timing

Hard plastic line sucks. When it gets cold it snaps and sometimes you can't see the leak. I replaced all of mine with silicone line. A little more expensive but won't crack or split from the cold or heat. Just and FYI-BOB

Backyard Builder-If I ain't drivin it I'm under it!

 

Re: timing

the origianl line lasted my truck 8 or 9 years. I can't complain so I put the original back on it.

Havack!

This is FORD country. On a quite night yu can hear a Chevy rust.