they look so small now...
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my hack job was better
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<img src=http://www.arkansasmud.com/bronco2/crawl3.jpg height=360 width=540>
you might as well cut straight across under the marker light... opens it up a lot. our b2 is about to get 2-3" more lift and some 35's stuffed under there
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<img src=http://www.arkansasmud.com/bronco2/crawl3.jpg height=360 width=540>
you might as well cut straight across under the marker light... opens it up a lot. our b2 is about to get 2-3" more lift and some 35's stuffed under there
but did you take the time to roll over the edges so it isnt sharp...
...Well, yah but my b2 has 10 times the flex of yours, a lower center of gravity, and i mostlikely can fit 35's under mine as its only 2 inches on teh radius and the 31's dont hit the top of the well at full compression, bump stops stop ti about 2 inches shy. Plus can your b2 do this? Mohohahhaha i knew them s-10's where good for something!
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and stock arms may i add.
and my new ultimate in body flex mod...
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Mohohahhaha i knew them s-10's where good for something!
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...Well, yah but my b2 has 10 times the flex of yours, a lower center of gravity, and i mostlikely can fit 35's under mine as its only 2 inches on teh radius and the 31's dont hit the top of the well at full compression, bump stops stop ti about 2 inches shy. Plus can your b2 do this? Mohohahhaha i knew them s-10's where good for something!
and stock arms may i add.
and my new ultimate in body flex mod...
Mohohahhaha i knew them s-10's where good for something!
Joined
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6,800 Posts
no, your b2 puts our b2's flex to shame
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round the edges? ahahah, no, but i used a grinder to cut them so it's not too sharp to the touch, but will eat tires if they get near it, which they don't. those 32's don't rub up front, just a little in the back, but if i become a welding maniac soon i might hack off the back like yours and build a flatbed
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we are going to try the "washer lift" up front with about 2" of washers stacked to space out the coils, and 2-3" blocks out back or maybe a longer shackle since it's inverted from the factory. yes, these little trucks bring out the rigging in all of us
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(on second thought, a body lift would be nice since working under this thing is a pain in the arse!)
round the edges? ahahah, no, but i used a grinder to cut them so it's not too sharp to the touch, but will eat tires if they get near it, which they don't. those 32's don't rub up front, just a little in the back, but if i become a welding maniac soon i might hack off the back like yours and build a flatbed
(on second thought, a body lift would be nice since working under this thing is a pain in the arse!)
you should see the flak that hack job is getting on the rangerstation. And they call it unsafe, how so, by choppping the back in the first place i removed the c pillar. That and thye realy relay thought the xj coils where dangerous, but hey its got twice the flex that anyone elses lifeted rigs have, well except will's but his is basicly the same setup by slightly hevaier coils. Now to drop in the 2.8L "HO" into the b2 and finish the duraspark conversion on it. Cant beat 185 hp v6 that can rev to 8000rpms and not blow up. That and a rollc age can be built ona flatbed a hell of alot easier then in the body,as there are less bends.
well norm, i liked it the other way, but it wouldnt work to easy with my evil state lfit laws. In short the b2 just didnt weight enough from the factory to go up much. With the 31's on it it sat at 22 inches at the door and im limited to 25 inches. Now the being like most people with a little less money to waste i decided to cut the fenders. All works great except in the rear. There is no inner quarterpanels in the rear. Its jsut teh outerquarterpanel and some tubs. The way the tubs are shaped if you cut mroe then a inch or so out fo the rear quarterpanels, you end up cutting out the tub. Also the tubs shape has a step in it( wich i can rub against with the stock 205/75r15's i use as street tires), wich to go bigger then 31's with trimming youd have to remove the step. So instead of using 55 gallon drums as tubs to allow ample trimming, i jsut removed the offending pieces. Also the tub due to the top being removed was actually tearing the tubs the quarterpanels, and the floor apart at the welded factory seams. Another advantage ill gian witha flatdeck si that it is flat, no contours to dick with for a roll cage unliek the b2 tub. I got alot fo flack for not using a ranger cab, but by design of a truck cab over a suv body, the step up for the bulkhead ina suv is pushed backa few more inches and thus makes a regular floor in that are. So in teh bronco two's case the body mount was designed a little further ahead with some slight irregularities in the rbv cabs floor superstructure. Then in wich case the front hanger for the leaf packs was allocated to the area normally used by the rear cab mount of a standard trucks cab. To actual mount a ranger cab to the frame, id have to build a custom leaf hanger/body bracket all in one. Wich in my opinion id rather waste time closing in teh b2 cab with another trucks cab then remove rivets, faba custom hanger, and bolt it on. And we all know the factory rivets are a hell of alot tighter and snuga fit then bolts will ever be, unless i used a reamer and custom fit each hoel to a pipe thread tapered bolt. All in all this si by far more structurally secure, frame wise. The cab itself wont be as strong as a ranger cab, but jsut as strong as a chop job. And thats why you put in a roll bar. Also in my collection of arcaic [bleep] that doesnt seem to eb practical, is a old winch witha 5 hp briggs and straton on it, it was originally used to hoist itself to the top of a pole( on the electrical polelines) then hoist up the cables lead, and then pull them tight farthur down the line. This i plan on mounting onto the flatbed then secureing it to the frame. With a drum that can hold several hundred yards of cable im not to worried if the 5 hp gas job can pull the truck,a s i can snatch block it till im blue in the face. Also the buety of a flat bed is all i have to do to flare it is cut off some 2x4's and stack them to make wheel wells.
Another thing that i enjoy is that the s-10 cab's window is higher set on the bottom then teh b2 or even a rangers window is, and thus when i get gunning it hard i dont worry about the seat smacking the window and breaking it. Third off is the number of aftermarket windows availiable for the s-10, i mena the s-10 is like the jeep of the pavement world. Also i got to modify my gas tank for the 2.8L im putting in to replace this electrical gremlin infested 2.9L, all in all a carb and a pinto distributor are cheaper then the sensors for the 2.9L. That and it will free up alot of my dash switches that use to run stuff liek rear defrost and wipers to instead hit solenoids to get offroad lighting. Also to pass a state inspection i msut have a enclsoed cab, and the ahrdtop was gonna be costly for custom windows. If i where to do this again toa fresh b2, id just cutthe body off then take the whoel c pillar section and weld it into the b pillar. And if i ahd decided to do this, wich ia hev been planning for a while a couple months back instead of know, id never have removed the cabbed in section and jsut removed the body at that point.
but the s-10 cabs back does fit with some prying and pushing
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Another thing that i enjoy is that the s-10 cab's window is higher set on the bottom then teh b2 or even a rangers window is, and thus when i get gunning it hard i dont worry about the seat smacking the window and breaking it. Third off is the number of aftermarket windows availiable for the s-10, i mena the s-10 is like the jeep of the pavement world. Also i got to modify my gas tank for the 2.8L im putting in to replace this electrical gremlin infested 2.9L, all in all a carb and a pinto distributor are cheaper then the sensors for the 2.9L. That and it will free up alot of my dash switches that use to run stuff liek rear defrost and wipers to instead hit solenoids to get offroad lighting. Also to pass a state inspection i msut have a enclsoed cab, and the ahrdtop was gonna be costly for custom windows. If i where to do this again toa fresh b2, id just cutthe body off then take the whoel c pillar section and weld it into the b pillar. And if i ahd decided to do this, wich ia hev been planning for a while a couple months back instead of know, id never have removed the cabbed in section and jsut removed the body at that point.
but the s-10 cabs back does fit with some prying and pushing
Well McDerry you have my interest now that's for sure. Start a new post explaining everything that you plan to do. If for now one else do it for me. I never even thought of 50 gallon drums being used as wheelwells. Thanks!
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I'm going to have to cut into my bed and I was trying to think of some good wheelwells. I've seen some on the older Chevy PU's that are huge but I'll keep the 55 gal drum idea close!
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NORM
well the there stock ones, im not sure on the actual lfit but my shocks are ainch and ahalf to short now to reach the radius arms. Id suggest looking in the lifting forum at the The Ranger Station, where they ahve figured the weight to height to length needed. I sue dhtem out of a stock jeep wich are a 170 coisl wich is getting me a soft enough ride that tis kinda suicidal. Will there has i believe 240 skyjacker springs and hes got nasty flex. Of course a double shocks sytem is a must.
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