Off Roading Forums banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One of my neighbors said that my engine cuttin out was because the engine was running hotter than it should be. It has never overheated, and I dont really see how this could be the source of the problem. He told me take the thermostat out and just not run one.


oh yea, in case you dont know, 74' cj-5, 232, manual trans, the problem is that the engine cuts out when stopping. the timing and carb are fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,870 Posts
Go get a slightly lower opening temprature thermastat.
NEVER run without a thermastat. You might be OK on summer days, but your engine will HATE you in the other three seasons and at night.

When you say 'Cuts Out', does it also 'Pop' back through the carb or exhaust?


Does it only do the 'Cut Out' under hard breaking, or every time you slow down using the brakes?

Does it do the 'Cut Out' when you use the transmission to slow the vehicle and don't touch the brakes?

Does it do the 'Cut Out' when you have the transmission out of gear and just use the brakes to slow the vehicle?

Do you have power assisted brakes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
i see in the other thread that your clutch is slipping...are ya sure its going and not just out of adjustment? cause if its not totally disengaging it'll drag on the motor...maybe stall ya out i think pedal free play is 5/8 to 1"...its in the chiltons
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i got the clutch fixed, i dont have power brakes. the engine cuts out anytime you try to stop, but it seems to be worse when under hard breaking. it doesnt pop back, it just wants to die. most of the time it idles back up, but sometimes it cuts all the way off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,870 Posts
Probably carb float level, or float that is trying to sink.
Temp of the engine won't affect anything on the basic operation of the engine unless you are WAY above 250 degrees.

When you slow down, you take your foot of the throttle pedal, this creates LOTS of vacuum in the engine, but you are saying that it happens even when you have the clutch in and just using brakes.
The only thing that will affect engine RPM then would be carb float level or maybe LOTS of crud in the float bowl.

That's my $0.02 worth... It's worth exactly what you paid for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,409 Posts
1st off what is "hotter than it should be"? We do need to know exact temps. To some 200 is hot. Beyond that I had the same problem you had (common on carter carbs) and was easily fixed with some doctoring. (fixed it with a rebuild but ran into other issues. A reman fixed it all)

I'd look at the carb. Unless you had it HOT=260.
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Im fairly sure this isnt a carb problem. This is the 5th new carb i have put on it in hopes of fixing the problem.

Im kinda leaning towards a new theory of vapor locking. I drove it and opened the hood about 10 min. after I cut it off, and there was very little fuel in the filter, and i could see air bubbles escaping into the filter. What do you guys think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,917 Posts
The fuel in the filter is likely just running back to the tank, don't worry about that much.

Is it hard to start back up?

Yes... maybe on the vapor lock thing.

No... that isn't it.

To expand a little on that... Does it start easier if you:

pump the gas peddle or hold it to the floor?

Would bet holding the peddle to the floor and that is to say it's flooding out.

A new or rebuilt carb that has been shipped is not likely to work well unless you reset the float level and adjust it.

So what does it take to get it running again?

What RPM do you have your idle set at?

What carb are you running anyway?

Then there are all of the other possible things like the ignition cuts out because you have 14 lbs. of keys on your keyring and the key switch doesn't like it much (don't laugh.... it can happen).

Many possibilities.... keep at it.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/40BEER.gif
Dale

Edit: I got to thinking about an old thread.... check out my post.... I can understand your frustration.

Re: engine cutting out??

Gilda hit it on the head with her rant "It's Allways Somthing". If it's not one thing it's another.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
it starts back up just dandy...but most of the time it doesnt even cut off all the way, it just dies and idles back up. ive adjusted the carb all day long every way I know how...and i still cannot loose the problem.

and to answer your question it s a carter yf.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,917 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
it starts back up just dandy...but most of the time it doesnt even cut off all the way, it just dies and idles back up. ive adjusted the carb all day long every way I know how...and i still cannot loose the problem.

and to answer your question it s a carter yf.

[/ QUOTE ]

It's not vapor lock and isn't related to how hot the motor is.... both of those would require some time before it would fire back up.

Welp.... start thinking about that 14 lbs. of keys on your keyring or bump up the idle speed or there's a loose/shorted wire somewhere. There's no end to the possible reasons.

But that's OK.... just when it tic's you off to the point of setting it on fire... it will be obvious and something stupid and simple. Hope you find it... keep at it.

And yes it CAN still be the carb.... Should that be the case JimLou is the YF Jedi-Master so I'll take a nap now. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/40BEER.gif
Dale
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
ok so youve installed 5 different re-man YF's....but have you adjusted the mixture as well as idle speed?
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have to comment on the 14# of keys. I had a VW that if you had too many keys hanging it would set off the horn...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
946 Posts
My YF use to do that to me also. I rebuilt the carb so many times I could do it on the side of the road in about 15 min. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

What I found out from the playing with them.

1. Worn float hinges. When the jeep is coming to a stop the float would shift and hit the wall of the bowl sticking and alowing the bowl to overflow dumping the gas into the throaght. I was actually able to tighten the float hinge up a little but boy if your do it wrong you can be in BIG trouble. A new float would be the best bet. I don't think they actually lists a side to side deflection on the float.

2. Incorrectly torquing down the top. I never realy thought that there was a sequence but reading the direction on day {shocking} I found there was a sequence you have to follow or the top can be cocked. This may aggrivate the worn hinge problem.

3. Float dropping to low. There are 2 adjustments to the floats and having it drop to low seem to cause problems also. Maybe with the floats hanging up. They sit real close to the wall of the bowl.

4. Bowl vent blocked. This was strange, I was still getting some stumbling when coming to a stop after a spirited drive. Removing the sealed hose off the end of my bowl vent cured that last problem.

The only thing I can think of is that the bowl should be vented in some way. The bowl it tries to vent through the venturi of the carb but since that is running at lower pressure than outside the carb it will put a suction on the bowl area. This either puts a different force on the needle/seat for the floats or or having the bowl at a lower pressure messes with the mixture. Not really sure on the last couple of explinations but I don't think these carbs like working in a vacuum. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks guys, ill keep at it, at least untill my dad gets fed up and sells it. Anyways, i appreciate you help.

oh yea...its not 14 lbs of keys, becuse i only have 2 keys on the ring
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top