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I am finally fed up with my steering wheel being 1/3 off center. Since I am running TTs cross over steering the tie rod can be adjusted. Should I try and correct it at the tie rod or would this cause alignment problems. Pulling the steering wheel just seems like such a hassle.
 

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Pulling the steering wheel just seems like such a hassle

[/ QUOTE ]

It is only one nut that holds the steering wheel in place. Remove the nut, bang on the backside of the steering wheel a few times and it should pop right off, then reinstall steering wheel to correct position, reinstall nut, tighten and reinstall your center cap. Not to difficult if you ask me.

You should probably check the toe in/out on your zuk to see if your within the specs so you don't wear out your tires.

Wayne
 

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It's only one 17mm nut. Pop off the cover, take nut off, pull wheel off. I can take my steering wheel off in less than 1 minute.
 

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Don't forget to disconnect your horn or your neighbors might frown on this fix........
 

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I used Autozone's loaner tool so I didn't have to beat on the steering wheel. It only takes a few more minutes. JCC
 

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Is the dragink adjustable? If so, why would you even think about poping the wheel?

I would take the draglink loose from the pitman arm and center the steering wheel to the steering box. Then adjust the draglint to center the wheel.
 

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Ok , just to be different , here's a different approach . First , center the steering box by turning the wheel from lock to lock while counting turns , then set the wheel to the center point . So, if it turns 4 times , set it at 2 turns . Next , get under the front end and look at the pitman arm . If all is aligned in the World , that arm should be parallel with the frame . If it is not , fix it now by removing the nut and using a pitman arm puller . Do not ever hammer on a pitman shaft in a steering box , you will destroy it . Once the arm is parallel with the frame , make sure at that point the wheels are straight ahead as they should be . You can use a long straight peice of steel and hold it against both front and rear tires on either side to tell whether or not the front wheels are straight . If they are not , adjust the end of the drag link to center the wheels to the steering box . Once that is done , look at the steering wheel . If it is not aligned at center , remove the horn button cover and remove the wheel with a 2 bolt puller . Do not smack the end of the shaft with any object as you will destroy the steering column and it's collapsible bushings . For those who have smacked theirs , there is a section in the fsm that details how to tell if the wheel has been hit in an accident by checking the distance on the column shear points . I have seen two Zuks so far that have developed loose wheel problems due to this , so it's worth a look . Now that everything is properly aligned , make sure to road test and check all fasteners to make sure they are tight and the vehicle drives straight . You may find that with the wheels set straight against the rear tires , it may not steer properly or straight . If that is the case , set the wheels straight ahead again and take wheelbase measurements to see if the frame or spring perches are off causing it to "dog track" . Correct as needed
. Now, the reason for doing all of this . If the steering box is not centered first , it will never work correctly since the box has a "center point" in how they work . There are some excellent writeups on the net about this and how to properly adjust the box itself , worth a read sometime . Now , get to work and have fun.....
Sarge
 

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Sarge,
Once again you inlighten me with your wisdom, I'll remember to do it that way when I set up my new steering system. I'll have to check the steering column like you said, mine was hit in the front and repaired before I purchased it and warrents a look. thanks
 

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I took my steering loose at the splines above the steering box and turned the wheel to where I wanted it and the slipped it back on the spline, took me about 10 minutes. I wouldnt go the steering wheel route.

Mark
 

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I took my steering loose at the splines above the steering box and turned the wheel to where I wanted it and the slipped it back on the spline, took me about 10 minutes. I wouldnt go the steering wheel route.

[/ QUOTE ] I did this on mine spent about an hour got it back on in the same place twice then one tooth too far the next finally pulled the steering wheel to find the signal rods that klick off the blinkers are on the wheel took a couple minutes to do the wheel and the signals click off when they are suposed to now it does the same thing moving a toothe at the wheel or down by the box only difference is wether you want to work down in engine compartment or or up in the cab
 
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