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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I guess I've been neglecting the truck. Last night I noticed some liquid all over the left rear tire. I figured the wheel cylinder was worn out and it leaked brake fluid. So this morning I bought new brake shoes, a hardware kit and a new cylinder. When I pulled the brake drum off a bunch of springs fell out of it, not good but I was going to replace them anyways. This is also when I realized it wasn't brake fluid leaking, but gear oil. The axle seal is shot.
So I take off the diff cover, barely anything comes out. At this point I see a strange shadow on the bottom of one of the mufflers. It wasn't a shadow, but a fist sized hole.
I decided to reinstall my overload springs (which I removed a few months ago, now the truck sags in the back) before I go back to the parts store. One of the u-bolt nuts is really hard to get off. Oh, that's because the u-bolt is totally stripped. So now I have to buy some of those, hopefully somewhere local, otherwise I'll have to wait an extra day to get them online.
On the plus side, I did get to try out the CRC Knock'er Loose I bought at work last week. It literally freezes the rust, causing it to crack so it can penetrate in between the nuts and bolt. It worked really good!

Awesome weekend!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The problem is worse than I thought. It looks like the ring and pinion weren't set up right, so the carrier had too much play. That made the axle shaft deflect enough that the wheel bearings were grinding into it. So that portion of the axle shaft is worn down about 1/8" more than the rest of it. The bearings are shot. The axle shaft shavings had accumulated at the seal which is what caused that to fail.
I guess I'm going to pull the whole thing out and see what it would cost to get it set up right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also found that all of the bolts on the ring gear had backed out some. The ring and pinion actually look real good and have a pretty good wear pattern on them. I'm getting everything buttoned back up now, just need to get the right puller to get the bearings out of the axle tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got everything put back together. The left axle shaft was toast, so threw it in the scrap pile. I just have to bleed the brakes and adjust the parking brake cable and I should be able to drive around.
Now I have to figure out what to do about the exhaust. I at least need to replace one muffler, it is rusted through. I would like to get rid of the true duals and change to a 3" single system. Pics to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To fix the exhaust I decided to just replace the mufflers. I found some turbo mufflers on sale at Summit for under $20 each, so I ordered them up. I was only going to replace the rusted out one, but figured it would sound better if I replaced both with the same muffler. I'm going to try and weld them in, so we'll see how that goes.

More to follow.


C
 

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mufflers aren't too bad to weld in. clean up the old pipes the best you can with a wire wheel. tack the new mufflers in place, then release the hangers to get as much access to the top as you can. I have some gas welding goggles with an arc type lens for tight areas that i need to get my head higher, but for better protection I use a full hood whenever I can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got the first muffler welded in yesterday. Took me a while to get ready because I had to cut the old one out, then cut off the overlapping tubing so the new muffler would slide on. I'm glad I kept the cheap welding mask that came with my welder. I held it up in the areas that were too tight to get into with my helmet on and it worked out great. I got the other muffler cut off yesterday, but a big storm rolled in and put me out of business for a while.
I also replaced the bolts on the header collectors because the old ones were rusted in. Someday I will actually remember to take pictures of this stuff as I go.
 

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i'm still running single stock setup. its stainless so i figured wy mees with it. the pipes from the manifolds are 2.5 and after the mufflerlooks to be 3-4". i was going to suggest that if you do welding and have to wear glasses get the uv protectant next time you relpace them. i do alot of tacking and short welds, believe me when i say $20 bucks for the uv stuff is worth it! no more sleeping with potato slices, wet wash cloth or any thing else. the other thing is go with the gold lense on youre hood, garrenteed not to get flash burn and i use my jackson hood more than my miller elite. just putin my 2cents in. by the way how does you're sub sound? you like it?
 
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