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TFI is installed !!!

669 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Junk Yard Genius
Did the TFI coil, Ford two piece cap with brass terminals, Autolite 8.5 wires and plugs today. Runs great. It was running okay before but it was time for a tune up. I was torn between "if it ain't broke don't fix it" and "why replace when you can upgrade". Well being a Jeeper I upgraded. I mounted the TFI coil on the firewall. I figure less heat and water. I left the old coil on the motor and crimped on some male spade connectors which fit into the Ford coil connector I picked up at the junkyard. Now I have am limp home coil. It may not work great though since I opened up the plugs 10 thousandths. The idle speed increased. It's not getting more gas, so it must be burning more of it. All I really wanted form this upgrade was cleaner burning and MPG. I'll let you know the outcome. Well, thanks BBS especially Teamrush.

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I have a favor to ask. Would you mind hooking up your old coil and seeing what the difference is? I took off my HEI and went back to the Duraspark. I had done the mod about 4 years ago, the only difference is the coil. I'm still running the stock one. Right now I think the HEI gives me better all around performance, however, the Duraspark does have a couple of advantages.
1. The solenoid controlled PCV valve only works with the Duraspark hooked up. Without it, the idle is too lean and high.
2. The carb servo only works with the Duraspark.

Overall, my jeep runs well with the Duraspark, but I feel it runs even better with the HEI. Especially in the mid to upper range. I will be curious to see what difference the TFI coil makes. At this stage, I don't won't to spend money on it if its not going to make a difference.

One last thing....and please don't think I'm trying to start another issue. I have tried both ported and manifold vacuum, and it ran better with manifold vacuum. I'm not trying to question the vast experience out there but if you examine how the vacuum advance works and how timming is related to 'detonation', I think manifold vacuum is the way to go. I am doing more research on it and will post the findings when i have them.

John......southern CA
84CJ7, 3"lift, 32"BFG, 4.10's, ARB Locker, Solid Axle's, Durabak
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Okay. I hooked up the old coil. With the old coil it idles slower but a trip around the block didn't show much difference. Ill have to drive it awhile before I'll be able to say much about it. But, so far so good.

Do you have the part numbers of all of the parts in the TFI upgrade or what exactly I should ask for at the counter.
This is on a 258 right?
I would like to start mine ASAP!!!!

Yes 258 with the ford ignition
you can do a search for TFI or Teamrush and get a lot of info.
Parts you can use:

Coil from 84 Ford anything. If you go to a junkyard, get a bracket and the electrical connector for the coil.

Plug wires from a 83 300 CID 6CYL

Cap and base also from 83 300. base must be screw down type.

John straight manifold vacume made mine run decent and coldstart great hith a little hesitation on the full throttle.Nothing too exciting though. Once I went back to ported vacume I could really feel the(A? does it really have one?/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif) powerband come on like the HEI. I like to call myself "johnny gm" but the duraspark has been easier to dial in too. (Aaron I starting to feel like I'm trying to get a brown nose from you./wwwthreads_images/icons/blush.gif) My advance curve is better and my eng. is happier except at a cold start.(this is due to the retread gas I my profile you'll figure it out.)If I run fresh 93 I can bump the timing almost 10 deg.adv. It's happy as a clam on cold starts and will smoke grandma in her concorde /wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif even with 33's and 3:31's. Backing of the timing for free gas is the price I guess I'll just have to pay.

"No officer I haven't been drinking , Thats just how my Jeep drives"
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For 258 I-6
Cap base or adaptor, 82 Ford F-150 Pickup, with 300 CID I-6, about $5.
Wells (Auto Zone and others) P/N F-960
GP Sorensen (Advanced Auto and others) P/N FR-109
Delco P/N F-334

Make sure it's the screw down type, and not the quick clip type.
(All the caps are quick clip)

Cap & Rotor, premium, brass terminals, For 84 Ford F-150 Pickup, with 300 CID I-6, about $15.
(Auto Zone) Conrad P/N F-2104-G
(Advanced Auto) Standard Blue Streak P/N KCR-202X

Plug wires, premium store brand, For 84 Ford F-150 Pickup, with 300 CID I-6 WITH E.E.C. for the correct coil wire for the TFI coil, Without E.E.C. for the correct coil wire for the factory stock can coil, $20 to $50.
Look for spiral core wires if you can find them.
Stay away from solid core wires.

For 84 Ford F-150 Pickup, with 300 CID I-6 WITH E.E.C. for the TFI COIL.
(Advanced Auto) GP Sorensen P/N GC-407 S, about $45. Premium Recommended.
(Advanced Auto) GP Sorensen P/N GC-407, about $15. Economy.
(MSD) TFI Premium Coil, P/N 8227, $45.
(NAPA) TFI Premium Coil, P/N IC24, $48.

For 84 Ford F-150 Pickup, with 300 CID I-6 Without E.E.C., CAN COIL
(MSD) Ford Round 'Can' Premium Coil, P/N 8205, $33.


Coil Connectors.
(NAPA) TFI Coil Connector, P/N ICC1, $13.
Standard Ignition Motorcraft TFI Coil Connector, P/N S-539 $11.

(NAPA) Ford Round Coil 'Horse Shoe' Connector, P/N ICA102, $8.50.
Standard Ignition Motorcraft 'Can' Coil Connector, P/N S-583, $5.

Make sure your distributor has the locating tab screwed to the housing right in the middle of the word 'Motorcraft'. If it doesn't, you will have to fabricate one.
This is the alignment pin for the distributor cap base or adaptor.
This sounds much harder than it really is.
If you need to know what one looks like, let me know, and I'll post a picture of one.

Good luck, Aaron.

If Chris Columbus "Discovered" America (with 25 million already here), Can I Go "Discover" Florida?
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IMO, if you want the 258 to run as good with the DS as it does with the HEI that you removed, I believe you need to consider doing something about the DS centrifugal advance. I have only checked two of the DS's on a distributor machine, one from a 83 CJ-7, and one from a 85 CJ-7, and the two that I checked were both pretty lame, as compared to a HEI (as far as mechanical advance - is what I mean here). TR has already mentioned this in his posts, but I think some of the other posts suggest that you-all are doing the 'other-upgrades', but many of you are ignoring the DS mechanical advance. I used some lighter springs, and I also worked over the 'stop' that limits mechanical advance, so that I got about the same TOTAL mechanical advance with the DS as what the HEI has. I believe that TR posted a couple of days ago on total advance, and how quick to bring it in. IMO, this needs to be done, or the DS is not going to give the same 'feel' as the HEI. Best wishes. BobH

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(It's illegal in this state though...)

I've been saying all along that the extra 'Zip' the GM HEI guys were enjoying was the quicker advance curve...

I split the upgrades up into three stages...

The first one was utility...
This part of the program gets more of the spark energy to the plugs, gets it to the plugs at the correct time, and doesn't loose tons of energy in the system somewhere...

The second was mild performance upgrades...
The Extra output TFI coil, and the Quicker advance springs...
These cost very little for the good they do...
AND put you ahead of any stock GM HEI out there...

The Third part of the Upgrade was the CDI module upgrade...
Done correctly, it's a $135 flame thrower for your ignition that is emissions legal in all 50 states...

Later folks, Aaron.

If Chris Columbus "Discovered" America (with 25 million already here), Can I Go "Discover" Florida?
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