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TeamRush & CJDave

489 Views 2 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  CJDave
Thanks for the answers to the the timing question. I am anal-retentive when it comes to working on my YJ. Before I completed each step of the HEI install, I checked, rechecked, checked again, and checked my checks. But I'll start again. After the HEI re-install(assume correctly), where do I set the timing, and at what RPM? Original engine spec sticker say 9 deg (+/-2deg) at 1600RPM, but that was with the Carter/Duraspark/Computer/original ignition module setup.

258 I6, Weber, GM HEI
God Bless Conservative America
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If we can keep a couple of people out of this thread so it stays polite, we will find your problem...

Do the usual when you have a problem of this type...

1. Verify the harmonic balancer.
Pull the distributor,
Find compression stroke,
Use a piston stop to find TDC,
Make sure the harmonic balancer agrees with the piston stop.

2. Verify the distributor location.
While you have a verifiable TDC on the compression stroke,
Insert your distributor.
Clamp your distributor housing down, but leave it loose enough you can still turn it by hand.

3. Assemble your distributor.
Add the rotor, cap, plug wires ect...

4. Double check your firing order.
Make sure you run your hand all the way down the plug wires.
Make sure your plug wires aren't against each other or the distributor wiring.
Make sure both ends of every plug wire are connected properly.

5. Set your timing.
Disconnect your vacuum advance from the distributor and plug the line.
(a golf 'T' works great for the plug)
Connect your timing light,
Have someone crank the engine,
You use the timing light to determine if the timing needs to be moved, and where.
Don't worry if the engine starts, that is a good thing.

Start with about 6 to 8 degrees initial advance at an idle.

(Don't pay any attention to the sticker any more. The computer is gone, and you are on your own now.)

6. Leave the distributor loose enough you can turn it with your hands.
Most people don't know a distributor has very little reason to turn on it's own, so a very small amount of clamping force will hold it during testing.
Leave it loose enough to turn with your bare hands during testing.

7. Test drive the jeep.
Hook up the vacuum advance to ported vacuum from the carb. (Not manifold vacuum)

Set your idle around 600 to 700 for a manual transmission,
Set your idle around 700 with the automatic transmission IN GEAR...

You are looking for it to 'Spark Knock' or 'Ping' or 'Valve Clatter' when you load it under part throttle conditions.
(Like going up a steep hill in high gear without giving it more gas...)

If it doesn't knock, bump your timing up about 4 degrees and try the test drive again...

If it starts to spark knock, you must pull over IMMEDIATELY, and back the timing off a couple of degrees, and repeat the test drive.

(when I get knock, I back the timing off two degrees at a time until it goes away, then I back off two more just incase it's knocking and I can't hear it...)

8. Drive the jeep about a week when you think you have your final ignition setting.
Take the vacuum advance line off the distributor and plug it.
Check your advance again at an idle, WITH A TIMING LIGHT...
If it hasn't moved cense your last check,
Clamp the distributor down really well.

9. Set your idle mixture.
Hook a vacuum gauge up to manifold vacuum. (not to the PCV line)
Turn your idle mixture screws GENTLY in all the way, until they bottom out GENTLY.
Immediately turn them out 1-1/2 turns.
Start the engine.
Adjust the screws TOGETHER, in or out the same amount until you achieve the highest vacuum reading.

10. Set your idle speed.
Set your idle around 600 to 700 for a manual transmission,
Set your idle around 700 with the automatic transmission IN GEAR...

Weld the hood shut and see how she runs...

When you get that done, we will walk you through changing the advance springs...

CJ Dave!
Anything to add?
You usually catch my mistakes (and I sure make a mess of them!), see any here or have anything to add?

"I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha"
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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif It's real important to verify that the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley IS the true Top Dead Center mark....real important.....just as TR says. Once you know that the piston is truly at top dead center and the mark on the pulley(balancer)is showing....your set to begin. FIRST.....choose the direction that you want the vacuum advance to point. You can clock it to where the hose is in a good spot, and where YOU like it to be. THEN locate #1 on the cap. THAT is where you will try to get the rotor to end up when you drop the distributor in. Don't forget to allow for the slight rotation as the distributor drops in and the gears mesh. Also, don't forget to roll the engine TWO COMPLETE TURNS to engage the oil pump drive after you set the distributor and BEFORE you clamp that sucker down. Once that is done, double check to see that your rotor is pointing where you need it to point. If the rotor is pointing toward #1 on the cap, use your best A-Retentive skills to get the wires the right order....and in the right DIRECTION on the cap. Follow the TR procedure carefully and you should end up at least running so that the timing light can be used./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

Quadra-Trac modified by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif transfer case team.
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