First, for your education, the unknown thing the alternator plugs into is an external voltage regulator, which means you have the motorcraft alternator.

Secondly, the restistor goes in the (+) side of the coil. The red wire to the coil. The (-) side of the coil goes to the ignition module, and the (+) side comes from a 12V source in the run and start position.

'77 CJ-5: 304/T-150/D-20 F-D44 R-9" Power 4 wheel disk, 36X12.5 swampers
bigmudtire

 

The ballast resistor on my Mallory distributor went in series with the +12V wire going to my coil, that wire goes to +12 when the ign switch is turned to ON. Or was it after my coil? shoot, too cold to go outside to check right now but I'm pretty sure it's in the wire going to the coil. In the instructions on that specific distributor it told me to measure the resistance from the ign wire to gnd and if was less that a xxx value, to place the ballast resistor inline. I believe the ballast resistor is actually there to reduce the CURRENT in the line, called a current limiting resistor. But yes, it is going to cause a voltage drop as well.

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Big Ed
'88 YJ, 4" susp,3" body,35's,283 Chevy V8,TH350,4.11's,D30,D35c

 

Yes, the resistor does limit the current BY dropping the voltage, and thusly lets both the coil and the module live. The factory harness on duraspark jeeps does let a full a full 12v to the coil during cranking, but by TeamRush's own statement, it isn't nessecary, and frankly adds to the complexity of the harness. i've been running at 8Vdc (after resistor) for starting and running for several months now with no problems to report.


'77 CJ-5: 304/T-150/D-20 F-D44 R-9" Power 4 wheel disk, 36X12.5 swampers
bigmudtire

 

thought i should add that this used to be a 4 cyl, many moons ago. the previous owner put the 258 in. so i dont know what he did to it.

Justin
www.geocities.com/jeepboyjus
'83 CJ-7, 258, TR ignition, headers, T5/D300, 3" suspension, 1" body, Moser 1 pce axles, Model 20, 3.54:1

 

OOFFFFFF

K.

the 4cyl used a GM HEI Ignition system, so that 10ga wire in the harness was probably the voltage supply for the dist. I don't have any of my manuals handy, but that's probably the issue. It might be time to rip it out and start a new harness...

'77 CJ-5: 304/T-150/D-20 F-D44 R-9" Power 4 wheel disk, 36X12.5 swampers
bigmudtire

 

FLmudCJ,
I dont think that is a voltage regulator for 2 reasons, 1. i have a brand new internal voltage regualtor alternator. 2. it isnt inline inbetween the alternator and the other electricals, ie; solenoid, and battery.

what do you think?

Justin
www.geocities.com/jeepboyjus
'83 CJ-7, 258, TR ignition, headers, T5/D300, 3" suspension, 1" body, Moser 1 pce axles, Model 20, 3.54:1

 

The voltage regulator has nothing to do with being inline with anything. All it does is sense the system voltage and then varry the field strength to raise or lower the alternator output. Mine is on the fenderwell below the battery and has 16-18ga wires running to it. It is definately NOT a high current device. Your probably thinking of a GENERATOR voltage regulator, which varies the current coming out of the generator directly, and must be able to handle the high current. An alternator doesn't use permanent magnets like a generator, it uses electromagnets to provide the magnitism. By varying the field, it varies the output.

By the way you have the wiring diagram, I'd say its externally regulated... IT COULD BE that the 258 swaped in was pre 78 and it uses the external regulator alternators. Since you didn't do the swap, its likely your making some assumptions about what you have... maybe?

'77 CJ-5: 304/T-150/D-20 F-D44 R-9" Power 4 wheel disk, 36X12.5 swampers
bigmudtire

 

FlMudCJ,
I am not trying to argue or disagree with you, i am just trying to clarify. What does your voltage regulator look like? could you decribe it? this thing is about 1.5" x 3/4" x 3/4", brown in color, has three blades on it, with a plug that has 3 receptors for the blades(maybe vice-versa), and is bolted to the fender via one of the solenoid mounting bolts.
The 5 alternators i have bought for it in the past, including the one i have now, have all been for an '83 258, which has the internal voltage regulator. what would happen if an internally regulated alternator had an external voltage regulator on top of it? BTW, the Motor is supposed to be an '83, that is what it said on the reciept (the previous owner saved all his reciepts, which i now have), and the head has an "83" stamped on it.

....Although the intake and exhaust system it came with are all stamped 1978.....hmmmm
hopefully just for the simplicity of the older intake.

Justin
www.geocities.com/jeepboyjus
'83 CJ-7, 258, TR ignition, headers, T5/D300, 3" suspension, 1" body, Moser 1 pce axles, Model 20, 3.54:1

 

Any other takes? this diagram may be confusing....lemme know if it is, and i'll try to revise it

Justin
www.geocities.com/jeepboyjus
'83 CJ-7, 258, TR ignition, headers, T5/D300, 3" suspension, 1" body, Moser 1 pce axles, Model 20, 3.54:1

 

/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif I looks to me like the resistor has to go in the wire that feeds the "I" terminal on the solenoid so that when the solenoid is at rest the current to the coil flows through the resistor, to the "I" terminal, and then on to the coil. During crank, the "I" terminal feeds 12V direct to the coil. Sometimes that wire that feeds the "I" terminal IS the resistor by virtue of it's size and the distance it has to go. If that wire is sized for the original Jeep coil, the resistance and therefore the end voltage may not be quite right for the TFI coil./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
Quadra-Tracs modified While-U-Wait by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif Quadra-Trac Team./wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

 

Pardon me, but you may be making this to compilcasted.
Why not check the voltage to coil + side, and if you need the a resistor, just put it in on the + side of the coil.
Hope it works for you.

My Jeep is a work in progress, Happy Trails

 

CJDave & Woodsrider,
i had checked the voltage at the (+) side on the coil, and it is at whatever the voltage level the battery is at, sometimes it is up to almost 15 volts, right after i start it. so, i would say that i definitely need the resistor. as for putting it right inline with the (+) power wire that goes to the coil....wont that also limit the cranking volts? i thought that was when i needed the full 12 or better? CJDave, i think that your suggestion will lead me in the right direction.
thanks!

Justin
www.geocities.com/jeepboyjus
'83 CJ-7, 258, TR ignition, headers, T5/D300, 3" suspension, 1" body, Moser 1 pce axles, Model 20, 3.54:1

 

CJDave & Woodsrider,
i had checked the voltage at the (+) side on the coil, and it is at whatever the voltage level the battery is at, sometimes it is up to almost 15 volts, right after i start it. so, i would say that i definitely need the resistor. as for putting it right inline with the (+) power wire that goes to the coil....wont that also limit the cranking volts? i thought that was when i needed the full 12 or better? CJDave, i think that your suggestion will lead me in the right direction.

thanks!

if others still have input, i would really appreciate it, i need all the suggestions i can get!

Justin
www.geocities.com/jeepboyjus
'83 CJ-7, 258, TR ignition, headers, T5/D300, 3" suspension, 1" body, Moser 1 pce axles, Model 20, 3.54:1

 

Yes CJDave is right. I had changed my wireing around a lot and have 2nd wire to coil for the cranking buypass voltage.

My Jeep is a work in progress, Happy Trails

 

I again reiterate:

I am running my jeep right now with no ignition startup problems (dang choke). I have no 12V startup bypass in my jeep. It works fine.

If its easier to wire it this way, go for it, if you put in the bypass, make sure that the coil isn't getting 12V while running. It should register 8V or so...

'77 CJ-5: 304/T-150/D-20 F-D44 R-9" Power 4 wheel disk, 36X12.5 swampers
bigmudtire

 

I ran with the no starting bypass wire for two or three weeks and I could not tell any difference then or when I put the baypass wire back on, it cranked just the same.

My Jeep is a work in progress, Happy Trails