[shuffjb]

{fade in while dollying up the driveway toward a Jeep up on 4 jackstands with a rebuilt T18 sitting behind the left rear wheel}

As with other episodes of this story I welcome comments, suggestions, and derision (along with laughter where you feel the need).

I guess episode 2 and 3 will proceed at the same time. I got stuck on the Dana 20 rebuild so I decided to remove the T15 and Dana 20 from the jeep while I had the weekend downtime.

A slight prequel: The Hi-Lift jack is man's greatest gift to Jeepers! Using my floor jack I run out of travel with the tires 1" off the ground. With the high lift I got 6" under all 4 wheels and could have gone higher, but wanted to leave clearance for the garage door to open. Jackstands on all 4 corners for safety, of course.

Front shaft off. OMG!! the U-Joints are TOAST

Oh well they are being replaced anyway.

Using Leve's (and others) suggestion I placed a ladder across the rollbar and windshield and looped some ratchet straps from the ladder under the transmission. Snugged up the straps to take the load off and proceeded to take off the frame cross member. There are rocks and sand from 28 years of the Jeep's life embedded in there, almost feels like I am disturbing an archeological site or something

.

Bottle jack and a bunch of 2X4 blocks to support the rear of the engine and out with the transmission attach bolts. Off with the shift assembly from the top of the transmission. (I should have removed the Tcase shifter as well, but live and learn

) Started lowering away and sliding back with a dolly in place to catch the Tranny/Tcase combo and sure enough the shifter hangs up

Finally found an angle that I could work it out of there by taking off the shift knob, but would have slipped out easy if the shifter was off. The 2" drop and loud thud once the handle cleared made me glad that I was off to the side. Important safety tip: NEVER be under something that is hanging from a strap or on a jack. Jackstands or ramps are the only thing that can be relied on.

Anyway, separated the Dana 20 and placed it on the bench with the other one. Then I parked the 3spd behind the Jeep.

Enough for one session, more on episode 3 as it proceeds...

 

[shuffjb]

Update 2-9-04:

Question for the experienced wrenchers out there: Is there some fancy articulated socket extension or do you drop the engine/raise the body when removing a bellhousing?

Todays accomplishments were remove starter, bellhousing, clutch assembly, and pilot bearing. Out of 4 hours spent putzing around with the beast 3:15 were involved in the 6 or so bolts of the bellhousing. I was in every position imaginable except hanging from my ankles (that would have been an improvement). The 2 top bolts were a grade-a 24K beotch to get out. I finally ended up sitting indian style between the dual exhausts with my head poking part way out of the transmission hole and working the bolts out with a u-jointed extension and a socket wrench

Thank goodness nobody was around to take pictures

.

Anyway any day that shows progress is a good day

The clutch disk is quite glazed (75k miles), so it is just as well that it is getting replaced. I can't believe that I was thinking of keeping the existing clutch

Tomorrow I will be off to Fasson's (local 4X4 place) again for a '76 clutch kit (need the 1-1/16 10 spline since my T18 has a ford input shaft). Still got to get the flywheel off for resurfacing. Thanks to all who advised me on that. I SURE don't want to skip a step now that I am so far into this.

the saga continues. . .

 

[Aaron871]

I know those bolts well. I've pulled mine so many times I can hit those bolts blindfolded. I usually let almost all the weight of the tranny pull (tilt) the engine back away from the tub and hit the drivers side from underneath using a 12" extension and the passenger side from the hole in the tub for the transfer case shifter with a 6" extension. When pulling the tranny take those out first and when installing the tranny put them in last. Make sure you have and use the spline alignment tool when reinstalling. You may need to loosen your motor mounts but do that at your own risk, I don't know enough about it to tell you it's a good idea. I did it the first few times.
Also, a trick that a friend taught me - put some grade 8 studs in, in place of the bolts on the sides. It will greatly aid you in lining up the bellhousing. Do it the FIRST time you remove the tranny. Don't think "oh, I'll only do this once, it's not worth going to the store to get the studs" When I did my T-18 swap, I thought every time I reinstalled that damn thing it was the last time, all ten times.

Good Luck!

 

[shuffjb]

Thanks for the tip Aaron

Well the flywheel is off and at the machine shop for resurface. There being nothing more to take off the Jeep, the next post will be the beginning of the reinstall phase.

Question: Should I wait until the Tcase is rebuilt and install the Transmission/Tcase together or is it ok to put the transmission in now and Tcase later?

Question 2: The T-176 bellhousing I have has 3/8 holes and the T18 was bolted on with 1/2" bolts to the FSJ housing. Should I drill out and tap for 1/2" bolts or use busings, or just put the 3/8 in and not worry about the extra room around the bolt shaft?

I am leaning towards drill and tap for 1/2".

 

[Aaron871]

Better make sure they don't have any slop, sleve it or tap it or something. Mine is through bolted w/ 5/8" fine thread bolts and who ever did that to it originaly (jeepgod) was a dumbass.
I've installed both ways and I think it is slightly easier to install them together as one unit.

 

[shuffjb]

Progress 2-15-04:

Flywheel back from the shop. Wow how pretty that new surface looks!

 

[shuffjb]

New Clutch Driven disk:

 

[shuffjb]

and Pressure Plate:

Need to drill and tap the Bellhousing next. Pictures as it happens.

 

[mbalbritton]

Re: T18 Swap Episode 3 - Pry it Out, Shoehorn it I

In reply to:

Tomorrow I will be off to Fasson's (local 4X4 place) again

[/ QUOTE ]

Hey I know that place... out there on County Line road between Plant City and Lakeland. I'm originally from Plant City, grew up just off SR60. My Dad took me to Fasson's, said back when he was young and building Jeeps like I am now, Fasson's was tha only place around that you could get anything. we just happened by there and he was shocked to see them still open, so we swung in. I was in heaven looking at all the crap he has around there!

brentA

 

[shuffjb]

Re: T18 Swap Episode 3 - Pry it Out, Shoehorn it I

Brent: I actually went there based on your mention of the place in one of my other threads.

Hehe looking around Fasson's "showroom" (buncha parts laying around and randomly stocked on dusty shelves) there may be some of the same things in there that you were looking at back in the day

But it is a great place to get parts!!! I walked in with an 80's bellhousing and asked for a clutch boot and the guy walked in the back and came out with one in his hand

The bonus is: you can get information/advice with your parts. I got many good tips on the T18 rebuild (they do them there) and the Dana 20 rebuild.

 

[mbalbritton]

Re: T18 Swap Episode 3 - Pry it Out, Shoehorn it I

Ya, last time was there he had a few trannies on the shelf, rebuilt and ready to roll. I was in the market for a replacement T-150 at the time, and I thought he was out of his mind when he wanted $500 plus a core

for T-150!!!!????

I've been wanting go out back and look at his axles, look slike he keeps or kept a good supply in stock.

 

[shuffjb]

Progress 2-22-04:

Well, the bellhousing is drilled and tapped. The top 2 holes are 7/16 coarse. I drilled the bottom right and tapped for 7/16 coarse. The bottom left I drilled to 7/16 and shoved a bolt through from the clutch side of the bellhousing. (see pic). On the inside of the bellhousing there is a ridge right next to the hole that will hold the head of the bolt still while it is tightened. Fingers crossed that it will work that way.

The bellhousing fit right on, but the

clutch fork rubs on the inframe header on the driver side. This was not a problem with the old bellhousing since it was longer and positioned the clutch fork further back. I actually went inside and looked up the prices for a driverside stock header and exhaust pipe

. Common sense prevailed and after taking another look I saw that a little grinder work would fix it. So Grind, Fit, Grind, Fit, Grind, Fit, aha! it fits! See pic also (same pic) for grinding on clutch fork (kind of edge on in the pic, the edge facing the camera has been ground).

I did some measurements and the mount holes on the transmission adaptor will be further back than with the T15. It just lines up between the next set of holes in the frame, so my next job is to move the crossmember hangers back. Oh boy! more 30 year old bolts to take out

So, the bellhousing is back on and the tranny/tcase combo is ready to be installed. The twinsticks will be here Thursday so I should be done this weekend (yeah right! this is a Jeep project, so who knows?)

 

[shuffjb]

Progress 3-1-04:

The twin sticks arrived. Not much to look at, but they should do the job. A little additional fab needed to link to the FSJ D20. I will post pics of the twin stick as I get it set up.

I made a platform for my floor jack. Basically a piece of 1" crate wood that was laying around with a 7/16 bolt holding it onto the jack arm. Heave Ho the trans/tcase onto the board and block it up so it is basically level.

I had to jack the jeep real high to clear the shift tower (shifter is out) and then let it back down so that my jack can get the transmission high enough to mate to the bellhousing. It ended up with the wheels back on the ground for the first time in a month or so. Still gotta love the hi-lift

. One note of caution on Hi Lift usage: when the instructions say never have your head between the handle and the upright, believe it! I was letting a corner of the jeep down and the handle slipped out of my hand, bounced at the bottom of the travel and then was pushed up by the weight of the jeep

It clipped me on the cheek enough to know I was lucky. If my head had been 2" closer I would have gotten a major smack.

Anyway, now that the transmission is between the rails, I find out that I don't have enough clearance without removing both mufflers and pipes. They will fit after the tranny is installed, just not room enough for it to be back 8" from its final spot and then slide forward. Oh well, if it was easy I would be done by now

 

[1269]

I don't mean to laugh, but I am. I did the exact same thing when I swapped in my T18!! Only difference was, the sucker knock my butt out for a few minutes. Stagger back upstairs and sat on the kitchen floor with an ice pack. My room mate comes out and says, "Geez! Do you want me to take you to the hospital?" My response? Naw, just give me a minute. That biatch is going in today!

Keep at it man, your almost home!

 

[MarineOpLaw]

1" BODY LIFT REQ'D TO SWAP IN T-18 to CJ???

I'm intending to swap a T-18 into my Scrambler in the near future - sandwiched between a 258 or Stroker and D300.

For some reason - cannot remember where I saw/read it - I've got the idea that swapping in a T-18 requires a 1" body lift. Is that right?

 

[Aaron871]

In reply to:

For some reason - cannot remember where I saw/read it - I've got the idea that swapping in a T-18 requires a 1" body lift. Is that right?

[/ QUOTE ]

no

 

[WILL]

In reply to:

1" BODY LIFT REQ'D TO SWAP IN T-18 to CJ???

[/ QUOTE ]

Just to apply some logical thinking: The T-18 was a stock transmission. There was no body lift stock.

 

[1269]

Definitely not. My CJ7 was completely stock before the T18 went in. It fit perfectly and all I needed was the adapter from it to the Dana 300. Didn't even have to do anything to the drive shafts. The only "modification" you haave to do it the tunnel cover. You will need to cut a new hole in it as the shift lever is to the back where as the T5 I had was to the front.

 

[shuffjb]

Riffraff: It is ok to laugh, I deserve it

UPdate:

The T18/D20 are attached at the bellhousing! Holding it up temporarily with a jackstand and a 2X4, but It is IN!

Next to finagle the crossmember and tranny mount. Any ideas? Will the stock mount go onto the adapter plate holes?

I have already moved back one set of holes on the frame, so hopefully everything will fit.

The rear shaft is too long, took it to local shop for adjustment. Needs to be 16.5 inches running length (center of u-joint to center of u-joint. I am hoping the front shaft can stretch a little and save me the headache and expense of front shaft lengthening.

 

[Aaron871]

In reply to:

I am hoping the front shaft can stretch a little and save me the headache and expense of front shaft lengthening.

[/ QUOTE ]

I hate it for you, but mine had to be lenghtened.
My rear is 16.25 and my front is 34