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My '84 CJ-7 hasen't seen the outside of the garadge in 9 monthes, but it may very soon, Iwas looking at the swaybar, and I was wonderin if you can just unbol the links, I don't mind taking the time to do it, I'm just wondering if it's possible to unbolt them at the trailhead. I'd imagine after a couple times they come off quite easily? What do a quick disconnect kit include and again why are they prefered, I read the other recent post on disco's but didn't find it helpful to me.
Thanks
Chad

84 & 76 CJ-7's Give me a striaght six cummins diesel anyday. [email protected]
 
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The most common quick disco's replace the links, one on each end of the swaybar. The disco will have a keeper pin holding it together or keeping it connected. Pull the pins and the swaybar is disconnected. A vehicle does articulate much better without the swaybar connected. I took my swaybar completely off. My Jeep is a daily driver, it has about a 2.5" lift and 33 BFG M/Ts. There isn't much difference in handling, in my opinion. So, do you need disco's? I don't think you need the swaybar. But this is just my opinion and I am not recommending taking the swaybar off. (Had to throw the disclaimer in there!)

Austin's Auto Accessories, LLC
5205 Gulf Breeze Parkway
Gulf Breeze, Florida 32561
Ph.# 850-916-7100
 
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Its easy to just unbolt it..

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif 78 CJ7 "Issues" /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 

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If you don't mind taking the time, then just pull the links. From what i've seen, the disconnecting part is pretty fast, but when it comes time to reconnect I see guys pulling out the prybars and BFH's. Some of them quick connects are a real pita. Personally, I don't run a sway bar either.

Max

82 CJ, some stuff stock, some stuff not
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
http://www.alpine14rs.org
 

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Yeah, it's pretty easy to take off each time. I don't have disconnects. This is what I did:

Grease up the connection at the spring plate (so this is easy to do) - take off the nut, pry off the lower connection of the link on both sides, swing the sway bar up, and zip-tie the links to the underside of the fenders. If you use a good antisieze, it's pretty easy to do on a regular basis. Don't forget a rag, though, that antisieze stuff gets EVERYWHERE! You DO have to have the jeep on level ground to take it off and put it back on, though.

Then go spend the $80+ on something else. /wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif

Personally, I think the jeep is kinda squirelly without it, especially if you have to do an emergency swerve to miss something, or someone. I had to do this once, so I like to run with the sway bar.

Good luck,
Pete

88 YJ - trails/beach trips only!/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
79 4WD F250-hauler/tower of my toys
70 Jaguar E-type - the best car England ever made. /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
90 Honda CRX - Daily pavement-pounder. 42 MPG. /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
 

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Here is a way to make cheap dicos for CJs.

Cheap and Easy Sway Bar Disconnects for CJs and Yjs By John Nutter
http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/

There is a very simple and easy way to make your own sway bar disconnects for a CJ or YJ. You will need a grinder or hacksaw, a hand drill, a 1/4" drill bit, and a 5/16-18 tap. For materials you will need only two 3/4" long 5/16-18 bolts, two lock washers, and two fender washers. Many CJ and YJ owners already have the correct tap since it is the same tap used when installing an aluminum valve cover on an '81 or newer 258.

These pins can be difficult to remove. This modification avoids the need to remov The sway bar was removed from the YJ to make it easier to shoot the pictures for this article. I have also done this project with the sway bar still installed on the vehicle and found it no more difficult. Removing the front tires gives all the room needed to complete this project while the sway bar is still on the Jeep.

The first step is to remove the large washer that is the head of the link pin that goes into the sway bar. I've found that grinding the washer with an angle grinder is the quickest and easiest method of removing it. You could also use a hacksaw or Sawzall type saw. Try to remove only the washer and leave the link pin as long as possible. When grinding, grind only until you see a crack all the way around where the washer and shaft of the link pin meet and then pry the remnants of the washer off. You will want to cut as close to the head as possible when using a hacksaw or Sawzall. The link pin material is fairly hard, so start with a new blade and be patient.

You can remove the nut and washer that secure the lower end of the sway bar link to the spring plate if the sway bar is still installed on the vehicle. The Link should slide off fairly easily now.

Remove the sway bar link and make sure that the end of the bolt is squared and flat. Grinding a small chamfer on the end of the link pin body at this time will make installing the links easier later. Center punch the body of the body of the link pin, drill and tap it. I have used a hand drill while the sway bar was still on the vehicle with great success on other Jeeps. A drill press was used for these pictures but it is not neccessary. Don't worry if the hole comes out slightly off-center. It will still be functional as long as you don't drill through the side of the link pin body or make the hole at a large angle. (This pin is HARD! I had to use a set of new bits and drill at the slowest speed to get good cutting.)

Once the hole is tapped the link can be replaced and secured to the link pin with the bolt and washers. The nut and washer on the spring plate should be re-attached as well. The small bolt and washers will hold the link on with no problems becuase there is no side force on the link.

Karl
80 CJ/YJ-7 FrankenJeep
94 Grand Cherokee
 

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Here is a way to make cheap dicos for CJs.

Cheap and Easy Sway Bar Disconnects for CJs and Yjs By John Nutter
http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/jeep/

There is a very simple and easy way to make your own sway bar disconnects for a CJ or YJ. You will need a grinder or hacksaw, a hand drill, a 1/4" drill bit, and a 5/16-18 tap. For materials you will need only two 3/4" long 5/16-18 bolts, two lock washers, and two fender washers. Many CJ and YJ owners already have the correct tap since it is the same tap used when installing an aluminum valve cover on an '81 or newer 258.

These pins can be difficult to remove. This modification avoids the need to remov The sway bar was removed from the YJ to make it easier to shoot the pictures for this article. I have also done this project with the sway bar still installed on the vehicle and found it no more difficult. Removing the front tires gives all the room needed to complete this project while the sway bar is still on the Jeep.

The first step is to remove the large washer that is the head of the link pin that goes into the sway bar. I've found that grinding the washer with an angle grinder is the quickest and easiest method of removing it. You could also use a hacksaw or Sawzall type saw. Try to remove only the washer and leave the link pin as long as possible. When grinding, grind only until you see a crack all the way around where the washer and shaft of the link pin meet and then pry the remnants of the washer off. You will want to cut as close to the head as possible when using a hacksaw or Sawzall. The link pin material is fairly hard, so start with a new blade and be patient.

You can remove the nut and washer that secure the lower end of the sway bar link to the spring plate if the sway bar is still installed on the vehicle. The Link should slide off fairly easily now.

Remove the sway bar link and make sure that the end of the bolt is squared and flat. Grinding a small chamfer on the end of the link pin body at this time will make installing the links easier later. Center punch the body of the body of the link pin, drill and tap it. I have used a hand drill while the sway bar was still on the vehicle with great success on other Jeeps. A drill press was used for these pictures but it is not neccessary. Don't worry if the hole comes out slightly off-center. It will still be functional as long as you don't drill through the side of the link pin body or make the hole at a large angle. (This pin is HARD! I had to use a set of new bits and drill at the slowest speed to get good cutting.)

Once the hole is tapped the link can be replaced and secured to the link pin with the bolt and washers. The nut and washer on the spring plate should be re-attached as well. The small bolt and washers will hold the link on with no problems becuase there is no side force on the link.

It does take a little longer to R & R with this system than store bought discos. I have not had any problems but it is easier if you lube everything well when you re-install. I also used stainless bolts/washers.

Karl
80 CJ/YJ-7 FrankenJeep
94 Grand Cherokee
 

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I have the disconnects. When I bought them, I was under the impression that it made it easier to connect and disconnect them. It does make it much easier to disconnect, as I just pull a pin and I'm done. No tools needed. Connecting them is another story. Level ground is a must, and a long prybar makes it much easier. I would imagine that you would have the same situation, just you would need a wrench to disconnect and recconnect the links. So, I think the only thing that the discos get you is that you don't need the wrench. If you don't mind using the wrench each and every time that you want to disconnect the swaybar, then I say don't get the discos.

Rick
80 CJ7
258 T176 TR upgrade
 
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You could turf your sway bar all together, I don't have one on my cj5, it's not that bad driving on the street without it,but you can't drive it like it's stolen. My buddy took his off his yj as well!

Shannon
78 cj5 4.2
t-176 dana 300


 
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