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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
driving the CJ today, I noticed that the power steering had become stiff. no noises, no belt skreetching, no groaning, just stiff. kinda like Manual steering. not quite as stiff as manual, but much stiffer than power steering should be. Last time I drove it it was fine. It doesn't get driven very much, so I chalked it up to nto being driven much. drove around long enough for the fluid to warm up and loosen things up, but nothing.

It has also stopped re-centering. My set up is out of a Waggy. I bought the pump resivior, Gear box and pitman arm from a junkyard about.... 4 years ago. Fluid is full and clean. wbcarver and I were talking and seem to agree that maybe the pump is going out.

Just thought now that maybe the pump was marginal, and now going from 32's to 36's and a welded front...... Granted I've played with it very little since the build up, but maybe enough to push it over the edge??
 

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I'd say it's shot... you could try some Bar's ....



IMHO... it would be a gamble and a rebuild is in the future.
 
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Before you go and replace anything, jack up the front so both wheels are free to turn....then grap the tire and make sure you can turn it from stop to stop....it won't be fast, but if anything is binding, you will be able to tell....

And with the engine off, it should be real easy to turn the stearing wheel....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
[ QUOTE ]
I'd say it's shot...

[/ QUOTE ]

It?... the pump? I can get a new/reman pump for $40... unless anyone wants to suggest a good pump upgrade to do.
 

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You might try just changing the fluid. Check the stuff that comes out for dirt, metal shavings and to see if it has thickened. Any of these can foul the valving and if that doesn't function, the whole system fails partially or totally.
 

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$40? wow thats alot

I got a GM 1500 pump when my pump started to go nutz and it only cost me $20 *NEW* the waggy should use the same setup.
 

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If you do just replace the pump, flush some clean fuils through the system first. Don't want the new pump to fail early due to pieces of the old one circulating through it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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What jdog said. I just replaced the pump a few months ago. I blew air through the lines but didn't flush them. Almost immediately the pressure relief valve in the new pump started acting up. It's releasing pressure too early, and making a terrible noise in the process.

I flushed the system and put a filter in the return line. That seems to have helped a little, but I suspect that ultimately the pump will need to be replaced.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
I flushed the system and put a filter in the return line.

[/ QUOTE ]

What type of filter did you use? Got a description or # for it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'd like to know. I also have a coller I'd like to install, May flush, add filter and install cooler at the same time.
 

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I just used an off-the-shelf 3/8" steel fuel filter. My parts guy had steering system filters in his book, but they were several times as expensive as fuel filters, $15 or more as I remember, and he had none in stock.

It's in the return line so there's no significant pressure, and I can't imagine anything small enough to get through it being big enough to cause a problem. I have no idea why a PS filter should be so expensive. On the other hand it's done little apparent good so far. After several hundred miles I'll cut it open and see what it caught.
 

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I have had this problem before. Hard steering especially when accelerating and turning. Found out that I broke the left rear leaf spring centering pin. This caused my R.E. 4.5 aluminum shim to slide out of place causing the rear dive shaft to shift out of alignment. So check your rear axel for square alignment to the front.
 
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