Electrical issues should be fairly minor, unless you're putting in a newer tranny with the computer controlled shift, or if you're putting in a 2wd tranny with the speedo in it and not the t-case.

Otherwise, an auto will usually come out a bit longer, meaning you'll have to shorten the rear driveshaft and lengthen the front.

And you may need an adapter, depending on the tranny chosen. This'll make it even longer.

'96 ZJ with stuff
'82 CJ-7 with more stuff

 

Doing the swap in something as new as a mid 90's, your best bet would be to find a wreck and grab everything that's different.

Once you decide to go with a combination that never came from the factory, you're going to have an unknown set of little problems. None difficult, but you'll be amazed at how much time they will chew up.

I might have been born at night, but it wasn't LAST night.

 

My 700R4 came from a 4X4. I am in the process of swapping it now ( gathering adapters and the like). It looks like it will be a little shorter. Make sure you get one that has been rebuilt with all of the good new stuff in it. The early ones had problems, however when built with the stuff that fixed the problems they are supose to be OK.

I bought a shifter from Summit racing that looks simular to the stock shifter. Hopefully no standing on my head to shift. I will take pictures as it goes along. Money keeps slowing it up.


87YJ
Here we go again. Done once and now doing it right.

 

I appreciate the responses. Was looking at buying a Wrangler, and would want to swap it to auto (it's nicely priced, or I wouldn't bother).
Obviously it would be easiest to go with a Jeep tranny, and that would be the first choice.
Failing that, or if it was too expensive, I have a 700R4 from a 4x4 that I could use, though I wouldn't be too keen on paying big money for adaptors.
Thanks anyway for the assistance, and if anyone has any more to add, I'm still listening.

 

The 700r4 is twice as strong as any factory Jeep auto box made. You will have to adapt it of course, but the set-up will be much more trouble free. I put a 700r4 in my 89 (with a TBI 350). The most expensive part was the t-case adapter. I also chose to put a slip-yoke eliminator in the NP231 while I had it out. Then any driveshaft shop can make a good driveshaft for you fairly cheap and easy. hope that helps.


89 CJ/YJ thing 350 TBI, 700r4, NP231 SYE, 3 inch body lift, 4" superlift, 33's and an appetite for mud!!!

 

Did you take any pictures? I am going with the 4.3 Vortex, so it should be very simular.
If you would, please, E-mail me some pictures or post them.

thanks
kailois@yahoo.com

87YJ
Here we go again. Done once and now doing it right.

 

"The 700r4 is twice as strong as any factory Jeep auto box made." -Bald_One

Bull****. The TH-400 and TF-727 are tough enough for any passenger car/light truck engine. By the way, Jeep never built an autobox, they always used someone elses (GM or Chrysler).

I swapped a TF-727 into my Wrangler for right around $1000.
*$450 ( $50 shipping) for a freshly rebuilt TF-727 with torque converter out of an 86 Grand Wagoneer.
*$20 for a used flexplate/flywheel from an '80s CJ with 258/TF-999 combo
*$150 for an NP-208 out of an 80 J-Truck
*~$220 for driveshafts (stock front cut down, '86 XJ w/select-track rear 'shaft cut down)
*$150 B&M Z-Gate (Don't get it! Get their truck shifter, the Megashifter I think it's called)
*$40 for a new starter to work with the tranny ('86 G-Wagon starter)

Thats actually $1080 there, plus a couple bucks for a tranny mount, and kick-down linkage.

Getting parts from a local junkyard could make things a whole lot cheaper. There are some TF-727s around here that go for $150-200...

'89 Comanche, '89 Wrangler, '74 Postal