[relsner]

OK, I know that a CJ is not supposed to drive like a car in any respects, and I have seen all the posts on death wobble, but I will throw a similar question here.

First, the data: 84 CJ7, 258, power steering, 1" body lift, 3/4 shackle lift, stock springs(new bushings), model 20 rear, d30 front, d300 tcase, 31x10.5x15 tires.

It seems as when I drive on the highway (50+mph) I am constantly steering, even on a straight away I am always making minor 'corrections' left or right. Nothing drastic like a bump steer issue, but continous work. It does not make for a leisurely ride ever. I can't help but feel there is something that should be 'tightened up' to keep this thing from drifting. So what I am asking for a list of things that I should check (and how to test) that might be an issue with steering. My problem does appear to have gotten worse in the last year without being able to pinpoint a specific hardware change or notable event.

Thanks for all your help and comments as always. By the way, thanks for all the responses that I have gotten to my previous posts, this board has been an unbelievable source of help and inspiration.

 

[CJ7Taz]

In reply to:

3/4 shackle lift

[/ QUOTE ]I'd say that's your problem. You've lost your castor by adding shackle lift.

I don't know what you've heard about Jeeps but I can take my hands off the wheel at 65mph. It tracks nice and straight. Eventually it will drift a bit due to the road crown but that's about it.

 

[4x4garage]

I have a 74 CJ5 and understand what your talking about. You can start with the following as a basic run through. Others may have some more technical checks to do.

1. Get it aligned
2. While having it aligned have front end parts looked at
a. Tie Rod ends
b. ball joints
c. pitman arms
d. hubs and bearings

Check the tire pressure. If the tire pressure is not equal in all four tires it will wander on the road.

Check the tires for slipped belts or defects that may cause a wandering condition. Make sure they have even wear too.

Its a start anyway.

 

[jdoggmoney]

If you get it aligned, they will most likely want to sell you shims to corrrect the caster. They have their pros and cons. Might search "Shims" and read up on them. The basic draw back is that they can slip out and cause major problems. Other than that, I would check both universal joints in the steering shaft. You can buy a kit to "rebuild" the lower end, but if the upper joint is toast, you'll have to replace the shaft or install some sort of serviceable joint in it's place. You should be able to test these joints by hand. Good Luck

 

[relsner]

How is caster checked/fixed? I am not familiar with that concept (sorry I'm an idiot)?

 

[jdoggmoney]

Castor is read in degrees, such as 360 degrees in a circle. Castor is the relationship of the top ball joint to the lower. The front suspension tracks best if the lower ball joint is slightly ahead of the upper. When you install lift shackles you rotate the front of the axle downward ever so slightly, reducing castor. To compensate for this, alignment shops offer shims that fit between the leaf springs and spring plate. The fat part of the shim faces the front of the J eep, rotating the axle back up, again ever so slightly.

Most like to have around 4 to 8 degrees of castor. It will be very hard, if not impossible for you to check this yourself. Hope this helps some.

 

[Guest]

Or a better way to look at caster is to think of Caster Wheels....like on the grocery cart....When you put in lifted shackel, your caster went the wrong way...as a result, your front wheels have a tendancy to want to 'follow' instead of lead.

There are only 2 proper ways to lift the jeep. Springs or SOA. If you want a lot of lift and soft ride, I would go SOA...best inch for the buck.

 

[WILL]

In reply to:

The basic draw back is that they can slip out and cause major problems.

[/ QUOTE ]

Lift blocks have that reputation, I haven't heard that about shims. They are usually thin enough that the spring center bolt sticks well past them. The one thing to avoid is aluminum shims. Only use steel shims. I had these aluminum shims in for about 10-11 months and this is what they looked like.